Just picked up this redhead

Richard in NS

TVWBB Pro
I'm leaning towards keeping as much of the original as I can. If not why have an old grill besides of course they are better than new ones.
Jim, I am with you and Ed on keeping the original wood. Especially since you have already sanded and put one coat of spar on it. You can always add new wood later if you want but that old wood has character and reminds you of the life this grill has already gone through. It’s looking Good! 👍🙂
 

Jim Owen

TVWBB Member
Jim, I am with you and Ed on keeping the original wood. Especially since you have already sanded and put one coat of spar on it. You can always add new wood later if you want but that old wood has character and reminds you of the life this grill has already gone through. It’s looking Good! 👍🙂
It is only 9 of 36 wood slats that I have worked on. I wanted to try some to see how it would turn out.
 

G Schafer

TVWBB Super Fan
That splotchy look is the result of uneven surface prep. The smoother the wood, the lighter the finish. The dark areas are rougher than the light areas.
More sanding will help even out the finish.

Gerry
 

Jim Owen

TVWBB Member
That splotchy look is the result of uneven surface prep. The smoother the wood, the lighter the finish. The dark areas are rougher than the light areas.
More sanding will help even out the finish.

Gerry
Unfortunately the wood cannot handle too much sanding. It breaks apart. I may just go with new cedar. It would be easier and probably last longer. I live near the Puget Sound, up north and it is very humid here most of the winter.
 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Well, if the wood is breaking apart under sanding, then I would give up on the history and go with new. There is also a pre-stain wood prep that you can apply that will allow your wood to accept staining better. That, and good sanding will get you a nice finish. When you are picking out wood, if you want it to look more original you can try to find slats with minimal dark grain and knots. But, if you want to stain a little darker and show off the grain then go for the opposite. Both look good. It is just a matter taste and style.
 

Dave_C

TVWBB Member
It is in way better shape than I thought it would be. All the wood is in excellent condition, it has nearly new stainless steel flavorizer bars and burners.It says it is LP only (which I want), but it has a long hose with a quick connect. It is from a guy who moved and the real estate agent was there. She said there was no NG available at the house so I guess it must be set up for LP. Why would someone set uGoing to clean it up and refinish the wood. I am not flipping it, but will use it for myself. I think its a Genesis 2. I really like the redheads with the wood working spaces.

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It looks like its all there. The warmer rack is super rusty, and it came with enamel covered sheat metal grates that don't look great, but seems like a great deal for $15 and a short drive. The frame looks like it is in great shape as well, the metal holding the wood together needs rehab, but is still servicable.
I picked one up in September as well. I think they have a cool look once restored. Mine is going to be a winter project so I haven't even touched yet! Good Luck!!
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I too like the idea of original and the aging gives it some real nice character.
Also, new slats are kind of a PIA. It takes a lot of time to get them the right length, width and especially thickness. Then you have to play around trying to get them all spaced just right.
 

Samuel Sandoval

TVWBB Fan
I guess I am not as OCD as others about the slats.
Although I am starting to come across.

P.S.; No insult intended, just a little humor.
 
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Jim Owen

TVWBB Member
So I just fired up my redhead. Has big yellow flames. I took out the manifold and the holes in the Jets are somewhere between .046 and .052 inches in diameter. I think I have read that this indicates they have been converted to NG. Can anybody confirm this and does anyone know where I can get LP jets to convert it back to LP. The manifold was bailing wired up. Are the studs it bolts to bolts that can be replaced. They are to short to get a nut on.
I'm leaning towards keeping as much of the original as I can. If not why have an old grill besides of course they are better than new ones.
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
If they are bigger than .047, then they are not LP compatible orifices. LP orifices would be slightly smaller than that. If you have a 3/64" drill bit and the shank on it will fit in the orifice, then it is a NG orifice. If it doesn't fit, then it is an LP orifice.
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Then you can be sure the grill has orifices designed for NG. Whether the rest of the valves are NG or not, is another question. Someone may have simply swapped in the NG orifices to the existing valves, which depending on the valves may be fine.
You could try a set of LP orifices and see how they work, or just replace the entire manifold with a known LP manifold.
 

Jim Owen

TVWBB Member
Then you can be sure the grill has orifices designed for NG. Whether the rest of the valves are NG or not, is another question. Someone may have simply swapped in the NG orifices to the existing valves, which depending on the valves may be fine.
You could try a set of LP orifices and see how they work, or just replace the entire manifold with a known LP manifold.
Are the valves different or just the jets?
.052 to .055 will give you between 9800 and 10500 BTU per burner on NG at 7WC" and about 15500 BTU on LP at 11WC". It does not mean someone hogged them out. It could be someone given the grill's age may have put a NG manifold on it
I have posted this link many times. They've been a good resource for me https://andersonforrester.com/
That site is kind of overwhelming. Any idea what orifices I would need. I'm guessing flat tip, maybe part # PO504-80 from this page?

 

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