IQ 110, not really impressed.


 

G Force

TVWBB Member
I have wanted an ATC for some time. Mostly for the longer smokes. Frankly, my 22.5 WSM is "set it and forget it" with temperatures. So on a 5-6 hour rib smoke I see little value in an ATC. But for Butts and Brisket I certainly do. Waking up once an hour to tend a smoker is not my idea of a good night.

After lots of research I purchased the IQ110 for it's simplicity. After two hours it is back in the box and I will test their return policy.

Possibly I got a defective one. But it did the green flashing thing on start up, then went to solid green. Even though the temperature was about 25 degrees low as confirmed by a digital and lid thermometer (I know how the lid reads). Then I cranked it up to 250. A few minutes later it was flashing red, over temp. But the temps were barely above 200 degrees.

The whole time I never heard the fan run. Possibly it is a really quiet fan.

At any rate, disassembled all, placed back in box, closed bottom vents, opened top fully. Surprise, 225 degrees and no ATC!

I still want one, so I will try and figure out who else has a simple one. I have no desire for fooling with WIFI problems, etc. I just was hoping for a simple set it and forget it temperature controller and did not find it in the IQ110.

I realize my experience does not mirror others who are very happy with these.
 
I had a pitmaster and quit using it so I eventually sold it. It worked fine but I found I simply didn't need it for the WSM. If I was a competitor I might need a ATC for more precision but as a weekend warrior I don't need that kind of accuracy. Even on overnighters I can set the vents and let it go. I sleep all night. I came to a point in life that anywhere between 225* - 275* is fine with me. Even if I get a spike to 300* as long as it comes back I'm OK with that. It's a very stress free operation around here.
 
Update: I returned the IQ with no difficulties. They even apologized for my lack of satisfaction. They tested the unit and said it worked fine. Possibly I did not give it enough time. I think what this lacks most is a digital temp readout. The flashing led's give an idea of if the temp is where it is set. I observed a discrepancy between my maverick and the IQ.

Next test a Digi-Q.
 
Have you looked at this one? It is DIY but really easy to do.

http://tvwbb.com/forumdisplay.php?85-LinkMeter-v2-Homebrew-BBQ-Controller

dave

Update: I returned the IQ with no difficulties. They even apologized for my lack of satisfaction. They tested the unit and said it worked fine. Possibly I did not give it enough time. I think what this lacks most is a digital temp readout. The flashing led's give an idea of if the temp is where it is set. I observed a discrepancy between my maverick and the IQ.

Next test a Digi-Q.
 
Have you looked at this one? It is DIY but really easy to do.

http://tvwbb.com/forumdisplay.php?85-LinkMeter-v2-Homebrew-BBQ-Controller

dave

Hi D Peart - Any relation to N Peart?

Anyway, I've waded into that thread a couple of times and could never find an neat FAQ where you could get a quick run down on what's involved, and some guidance of what parts and experience you need. While I'm not afraid of soldering irons, creating PC boards and such is a bit out of my league. However again, I've drifted through many pages on the Part #1 and #2, and some of the individual threads and have yet to see anything that provides an overview, shopping list, or better yet, any kits to help someone get started. That and some sort of a guide on how to accomplish the project and perhaps an estimate of the total cost, provided you have the capability.

As a result, I just gave up and bought the DigiQ. Frankly, with the Maverick, I won't even use the DigiQ food probe, and it'll only be used to maintain the grate temp, which during my first trial, it did magnificently. I set it for 275 for some ribs, and bam, it locked on the money +/- 1 degree the whole time after the first 15 minutes. Might have spent a a few more dollars, but I have it NOW, it's working 110%, and that's a big deal because based on the looks of things on that Home Brew forum, I'd still be trying to figure that all out a year from now.

Like they say, a man's got to know his limitations.
 
Not directly related, but I like his work :)

Yes it can be daunting. Here is a pointer to what you were probably looking for:
https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki

Now you can buy the board already made, click a button to buy everything you need from mouser and digikey. Guys are even making 3d cases for them.

I've a DigiQ as well, just don't use it. I should sell it so someone gets some use out of it as it is just a paper weight for me now.

dave

Hi D Peart - Any relation to N Peart?

Anyway, I've waded into that thread a couple of times and could never find an neat FAQ where you could get a quick run down on what's involved, and some guidance of what parts and experience you need. While I'm not afraid of soldering irons, creating PC boards and such is a bit out of my league. However again, I've drifted through many pages on the Part #1 and #2, and some of the individual threads and have yet to see anything that provides an overview, shopping list, or better yet, any kits to help someone get started. That and some sort of a guide on how to accomplish the project and perhaps an estimate of the total cost, provided you have the capability.

As a result, I just gave up and bought the DigiQ. Frankly, with the Maverick, I won't even use the DigiQ food probe, and it'll only be used to maintain the grate temp, which during my first trial, it did magnificently. I set it for 275 for some ribs, and bam, it locked on the money +/- 1 degree the whole time after the first 15 minutes. Might have spent a a few more dollars, but I have it NOW, it's working 110%, and that's a big deal because based on the looks of things on that Home Brew forum, I'd still be trying to figure that all out a year from now.

Like they say, a man's got to know his limitations.
 
Not directly related, but I like his work :)

Yes it can be daunting. Here is a pointer to what you were probably looking for:
https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki

Now you can buy the board already made, click a button to buy everything you need from mouser and digikey. Guys are even making 3d cases for them.

I've a DigiQ as well, just don't use it. I should sell it so someone gets some use out of it as it is just a paper weight for me now.

dave

Thanks for posting those links - That did help. After scanning the pages however, it's pretty clear this is far beyond my skill set. Sure, it looks like it might be a fun project for those inclined, if time was no issue, but I don't really think I want to invest countless hours trying to figure out how to hodge-podge together something from scratch, that I can buy for a reasonable price with a much more elegant and polished package. Either way, it's pretty clear this is NOT by any stretch of the imagination a real easy project, unless you're an electrical engineer or something, or has gobs of free time to figure this all out (retired perhaps)?

Again, for my purposes at least, The DigiQ DX2 was a very nicely developed commercial package that worked fantastically right out of the box. There was noting at all that wasn't well thought out, or unpolished, except perhaps the fold your own stand thing. On my very first cook, it ran flawlessly and keep the temp so consistent I was shocked that was even possible. While I know some of the more expensive models offer WiFi, and multiple pit capabilties, and perhaps many more features, for this beginner backyard hack, this will last me for many years before I get to need anything more.

G Force, I think you're going like the DigiQ much better! Good luck man.

Thanks.
 
I really like mine. It took time to figure out how to work with it best, but with that and the maverick...life is good.
 
I really like mine. It took time to figure out how to work with it best, but with that and the maverick...life is good.

I appreciate the links, but for me I just don't wish to "roll my own". I do all my own woodworking, even building my own kitchen cabinets. I tie all my flies for fishing. And I smoke lots of meat. I just don't wish to fool with electronics, but respect those with the skill set to do so. For me the perfect ATC is set it and forget it!
 
I will throw my 2 cents in. I have a pitmasterIQ and have had no problems, it's been working great. I will say this though, at first I thought it was malfunctioning the first time I used it. You have to let it run through its start up cycle, and this may take longer if your water bowl is not preheated or if you dump to many lite coals into the ring. Also if decide to change the temp, it will go through a new start up cycle. I found it works best when you let attach the heat probe and let the WSM preheat 15-30 minutes before throwing on the meat. One night I set it to about 225 and it maintained temp from 10pm to 7am. After learning to trust the box, I am now a 100% satisfied customer.
 
My 1st experience with my IQ was like Nathans. This past weekend it worked fine during my 1st comp of the year. I also wish it had a digital readout. I'm not a Maverick fan, went through 2 of them...

BTW where do you guys clip your probe? It's kind of hard to find a good place near the middle with meat on the pit, especially a brisket. I'm thinking of buying the probe tree from Guru.
 
By the probe tree from Guru. Not only can you attach the pitmaster probe, but you can also attach a digital probe if you need/want to check the accuracy of the pitmaster probe. I've had my pitmaster a little over two years and use it
at competitions with no complaints at all. It works as advertised. I recently did an overnight brisket cook and set the pitmaster at 275 at 11pm and at 8am the temp inside the pit was was 269, not 275, but close enough for government work.
 
My son got me a Pitmaster for Christmas and it performs as advertised. The instructions say to keep the probe at least two inches away from the meat. As John mentioned it's hard to find a place to attach it when the grate is full of meat. To overcome that problem I purchased a large molly bolt with a six inch bolt. I use the wings of the molly bolt to hang the thing through the grate and attach my Pitmaster probe and digital probe to the bolt...about five inches below the grate. Works great. I drilled a hole through my WSM just below the lid and used lamp hardware in the hole as mentioned in other posts. Both probes go through the hole.

There is a slight learning curve with the Pitmaster but once you get used to it, it really performs well.
 
I drilled two holes through a clothes pin and that works well for keeping probes together and for moving them around.
 
I am considering a IQ110, IQ120, DigiQ or Stoker.
Leaning towards Stoker due to multiple pits.
My question is do anyone know of a power box , short of a generator, that will provide power in remote locations
Thanks to a great site and forum
 
When I had a pitmaster I got a Li Ion battery to run it when no plug in source was avail.

 
Last edited:
"I am considering a IQ110, IQ120, DigiQ or Stoker.
Leaning towards Stoker due to multiple pits.
My question is do anyone know of a power box , short of a generator, that will provide power in remote locations
Thanks to a great site and forum "

Hijack alert - since this question is of a different topic than original thread, it should be started as a new topic.

Most of the ATC run on 12 volts.

A battery like this should work - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EZQPII/?tag=TVWB-20

Devices that can jump your car will also work - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YR00MI/?tag=TVWB-20
 

 

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