INTRODUCING: the "Roto Damper"


 
I'd never heard of the weber starting cubes until a couple years ago I was camping with a cousin and she lit her camp fire with one. I saw "Weber" on the box and thought "what's that?" When I got the "fauxmado" I bought them for the first time and have been using them ever since. I use half a cube for starting low and slow fires and a whole cube for starting fires for higher temp cooking. With whole box costing only a couple bucks, and so many cubes in it, they last forever even if you don't cut them in half. I think they're great.

The mid/high temp cook test went really well last night indeed.... After I watched it for a while I tried a lid opening. The recovery went pretty well though the HM did hit 100% at which point the blower turned on for a bit (at the MAX speed of 20% as per my settings). This brought up a topic I have raised multiple times over the past year, a feature request that I think would be a nice improvement in HM operation.

I would like to see the HM config have, instead of "On at Max Only", I would like to see the config have blower "On above XX %", where the blower speed would ramp from the MIN value at XX% to the MAX value at 100%. Take a look at the graph below and the lines I have added to it.
RD3_HH_OMO3Notes.jpg


I guess it would be more visible if the graph were focused around the dip a little more... but what happens is when running the blower on at "Max Only" the transition between the nice stable convection air flow to the active flow from the blower, even set low like 20%, is pretty drastic for the pit. As the rush of air from the blower is forced in the pit temp drops rapidly and then rises rapidly. This usually results in overshoot, for low and slow the overshoot will be more severe and last longer. The area between the two red lines is the time period when the blower comes on (at MAX speed), note the rapid drop in pit temp followed by the rapid rise into overshoot.

Here's a shot of the graph more focused on the recovery period I am talking about. Note the check mark shaped portion of the pit temp line that I circled. This is the typical rapid dip followed by rapid rise that happens when the blower kicks on "at Max Only".

RD3_HH_OMO3Notes2.jpg



In my proposed scenario instead of on at Max only I could choose to start the fan blowing at some % lower than 100%, and the blower would not come on full blast, but rather ramp up from Min to Max. So, for instance in the graph above... If I was able to set the blower "On above 60%" as the HM % reached 60% during the recovery from lid opening the blower would start up but at a trickle pace. As the HM % continued to increase the blower speed would also increase, but gradually, not from off to MAX in one step. This gradual increase in air flow I believe would be a much more gentle and effective way to recover the target temp than waiting until the HM hit's 100% and then starting the blower at full blast. I think the recovery graph above would follow much closer to the red arc I added to the graph instead of the dip and bump into overshoot that happens with the Max Only setting. I think the HM would likely never hit 100% during recovery because the added trickle of flow would help the pit recover and not allow it to flounder there a bit like you see on the graph while the HM % inches up to 100% and then blower kicks on at full blast, giving you that check mark dip/bump scenario.

I have found whether cooking high heat or low and slow the same PID settings will work great but you just need to (manually) scale the blower speed properly to the target temp. I believe the above change in settings would make the HM much more forgiving of the blower Max speed setting, you could leave it higher and as the HM ramped up the % gradually the blower speed would also raise gradually, which would have a more gradual effect on the pit temp and not give you that dip and bump as in the graph.

I know you (Bryan) had commented that I could tweak PID settings to achieve something like this, but I think we're looking at something different here, a feature much easier to control and understand than PID settings. I also find the solution of tweaking PID settings to be a non-solution because depending on the cook scenario, be it low, medium or high temp, I need to adjust the blower MAX speed settings and would likely need to have different PID settings for each type of cook to accomplish this with PID settings alone. If the blower could be "On Above XX%" and scale up from there I think one set of PID settings and one (higher) blower MAX setting would work great for any temp cook....


Ok, off the soap box... LOL
 
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Yeah that's really awesome, Ralph. The RD3 is one fine piece of work! Shockingly I've never heard of Weber starter cubes before either, I usually just use a blowtorch for about a minute, but these look easier and they're so cheap. Definitely going to give those a try.

Blowtorch?... Ha, ha, ha... It's what I use to start Ralph's inspired Ring of Fire... I call it "the lazy man fire starter"... :)
I should try the Weber cubes...
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-91033.html

This is what I have used for years to light my Big Green Egg. I've got it hooked up to the propane tank from my old Weber propane grill, and I light the torch with a long bic lighter, hold the end down into the coals for 10 seconds or so, and then shut it down and let the RD stoke up the fire. If I'm cooking something with a hot fire, I use the torch a bit longer to light a few more coals before letting the HM/RD take over.

I bought some of those Weber starting cubes from Home Depot this weekend though, after reading this thread, and I lit one up to see what it burned like before letting it touch the ceramic of my Egg. I thought it had a bit of an odor, and I wasn't totally comfortable putting it in my Egg. I later looked up on Green Egg forums, and plenty of others use them and have no problem. So I guess I was just being a little paranoid. I like the idea of them though. They were 3.29 at Home Depot for a pack of them, and my neighbors won't freak out when they see me lighting a little cube. The torch always gets a few looks.
 
I bought some of those Weber starting cubes from Home Depot this weekend though, after reading this thread, and I lit one up to see what it burned like before letting it touch the ceramic of my Egg. I thought it had a bit of an odor, and I wasn't totally comfortable putting it in my Egg.

I started out using the Weber cubes, and I agree -- they had a smell. I couldn't taste it in the food, though. They worked great, but I'm always looking at different methods.

I've since moved to using a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. I've got a bottle of alcohol ($2.50) sitting near my grill. I just grab a cotton ball from the bag ($2.00?), hold it to the alcohol bottle and turn it upside down -- rotate and repeat until it's saturated. It works just as good (maybe a little better!), and I'm going to get hundreds of starts for about $5.00.
 
I started with the cotton ball in alcohol, I found the cotton had an odor when burned... so you can't win! LOL

I use weber starter cubes almost always, and like I said, only a half cube to start a low and slow fire, so that's not much to burn up and create odor. I do leave the lid open until I see the smoke from the starter cube go away, it's pretty evident when it's all burned up.
 
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I'm a big fan of either using a weber chimney starter, or when I'm feeling lazy, my propane weed burner. If I'm re-lighting coals that are already in my Big Baby smoker, the propane torch is the easiest approach. Warning though, the torch method is extremely hot and LOUD. I torched all the hairs off one leg when the wind abruptly changed direction on me. Lol
 
My concern with the smell of burning starters was less about it getting on my food and more about it permanently being embedded into the ceramic of my Egg. I'm a little paranoid about that after spending so much on my Green Egg and subsequently falling in love with it. But like I said, I think it's safe. I may try a half of one in the future.

One other warning if you use the propane weed burner method: fresh coals do crackle and jump a bit when you heat them. So watch for that as well. I'm not saying this is the best method, but I do find it fun to fire up the propane torch and make it sound like a jet is taking off in my back yard.
 
Just received the "big box of goodies" from Ralph (awesome!)... Waiting for the blowers and components for the RD3 and Aux TC. In the meantime, I'm building the adapters to mount the RD3 in my Akorn... Pictures and results coming soon...
Thank you Ralph for all the printing and your help!
 
Just received the "big box of goodies" from Ralph (awesome!)... Waiting for the blowers and components for the RD3 and Aux TC. In the meantime, I'm building the adapters to mount the RD3 in my Akorn... Pictures and results coming soon...
Thank you Ralph for all the printing and your help!

Let me know if I can help. My RD3 on Akorn is deadly accurate, happy to share settings (I think already in this thread though :) )
 
I hate to say my Fauxmado was almost laid to rest yesterday... The seem around the ash pan has rusted and now has rapidly deteriorated, when I touched it to see how I might seal it up it just fell apart... beyond repair...

Luckily when I bought the Akorn the original ash pan had some cracks in it, I sent pics to the company with the receipt and they sent me a new ash pan, so I have a spare. I've got the spare in place now, but the under side of the main body of the grill is rusting rapidly as well so it looks like the Fauxmado is on its way out one way or another. 3 years, kinda quick... It's been exposed to weather, but is sitting right next to my Weber Genesis that has been there for 16 years and the Weber is in better shape than the Fauxmado after 3.

I'm keeping my eye out for an end up summer sale on the Akorn, if I can get one really cheap I may get another to have when this one fails, if I can't get one dirt cheap I think I am gonna have to save for a real ceramic Kamado, 'cause ceramic don't rust!
 
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When I was looking at the ceramic kamados, I sucked it up and did a "buy one, cry once" and got the Kamado Joe classic. It comes with a lifetime warranty on all of the ceramics and it also comes standard with a stand + side tables. Their new "divide and conquer" system is really nice as well.
 
Yah, the good news is it's the perfect season to buy a grill here in the midwest... If anyone spots a good sale on either an Akorn or real kamado please post....
 
$150 is a nice deal, I would run out to get one but unfortunately none of the Target stores in my area carry it. The inventory checker says only 3% of Target stores nationally stock this item. So if you've seen the Akorn at your local Target you could be the lucky one to get that deal....
 
$150 is a nice deal, I would run out to get one but unfortunately none of the Target stores in my area carry it. The inventory checker says only 3% of Target stores nationally stock this item. So if you've seen the Akorn at your local Target you could be the lucky one to get that deal....

I'm keeping an eye out, HD and Lowes will eventually clearance them too.

You know my deal.. got mine for $89 at target. If there was more than one I would have driven you one just for being such a good dude
 
Maybe I'll run the gauntlet tomorrow and see what I can come up with... There's a Menards, Target, Home Depot and Lowes all in a couple mile stretch not too far away...
 
I'm planning to replace my Akorn when ceramic prices go down too... My question for someone who may have one in a place like Winnipeg with really cold winters is if the extreme temperatures (-40C) may affect (crack) the ceramic?
Not a good idea to get it in the middle of the living room during winter :)
 
-40 wont hurt a ceramic cookers. Only thing you need to watch out for is the upper and lower gaskets freezing together in the winter as they'll rip right off if you open the lid.
 

 

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