I will just leave this here

[Cody Bratton]

How about the idea of a stainless steel washer between the cookbox and the cross bar? Any final thoughts on that or just bring it right up to the rail with no washer?

I do that. I think it’s a helpful insulator between the different materials

 

[LMichaels]

I do that. I think it’s a helpful insulator between the different materials

Either SS or brass. I've done both in the past. Either will work fine

 

[Bruce]

I painted a small piece of steel with Rustoleum Massey Furgusen gray paint. A little while later I painted another piece of steel with Rustoleum 2 semi gloss black. The black piece is dry to the touch already but the other piece is still tacky. I have them both in the house due to the high humidity outside. Did I maybe not shake up the gray enough or what? I have used the paint several times before and never had the problem with it still being tacky 2-3 hours later.

 

[LMichaels]

I wonder if the solvent package is slightly different based on different pigments. I don't think shaking not shaking would matter that much

 

[Bruce]

I just hope it finally cures solid.

 

[HankBates]

It's an interesting problem with the nylon washer vs. stainless washer. Originally that box bolt had a nylon washer, I'm sure from the original assembly which is indicated in the original assembly instructions. Yes, it did seem to melt a bit and even started to fall apart when I started working on it. However, after the washer peeled out in pieces from under the hex and created a small gap between the hex head and the cross tube, I was able to bash the bolt forward a few times that allowed me to free it from the cook box. I don't mind it melting a bit like the first one but I also don't want the possibility of smelly plastic for the customer. I think I'll switch to stainless like most people are doing.
How about the idea of a stainless steel washer between the cookbox and the cross bar? Any final thoughts on that or just bring it right up to the rail with no washer?

The best setup to cut down on heat transfer (especially needed if you have durawood slats) would be 1) Stainless bolt with nut inside the box, 2) a nonmetallic heat transfer material between the box and crossbar, and then a stainless or nylon washer between the bolt head and the crossbar (or better still, spacer bracket 63180).

 

[Cody Bratton]

I wonder if the 2X is a different formulation than the Massey Ferguson. Or different paint makeup altogether such as a urethane versus an enamel. Just spitballing, as I’ve not used the grey one before.

 

[BPratt]

Does anyone have a utility knife like this? I am thinking of getting one.


View attachment 116508

View attachment 116509

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-44304-FLICKBLADE-Removable/dp/B0F1C1LFD9?tag=tvwb-20

Klein makes good stuff

 

[Bruce]

I wonder if the 2X is a different formulation than the Massey Ferguson. Or different paint makeup altogether such as a urethane versus an enamel. Just spitballing, as I’ve not used the grey one before.

I have it in my air fryer at 200 degrees right now. LOL

Update. About a half hour and I think that did it. Too hot to really test, but it felt pretty good.

 

[Ed_T]

I have it in my air fryer at 200 degrees right now. LOL

Update. About a half hour and I think that did it. Too hot to really test, but it felt pretty good.

There's something about using an air fryer to help restore a Weber grill...

 

[Bruce]

It worked like a charm.

 

[Cody Bratton]

There's something about using an air fryer to help restore a Weber grill...

Drastic times call for drastic measures, but not the metric system!

 

[Ed P]

Not sure I'd want to use an air fryer for cooking after drying painted parts in it, but they are cheap enough that you could have one dedicated for paint drying.

EDIT: thinking about this, many years ago I bought a second-hand toaster oven at a swap meet for making printed circuit boards. A cheap toaster oven might give you more room for larger parts.

 

[Ed P]

Also, I can remember when Rustoleum used fish oil in its paints...took forever to dry. I wonder if that's still a part of some formulations?

 

[LMichaels]

Also, I can remember when Rustoleum used fish oil in its paints...took forever to dry. I wonder if that's still a part of some formulations?

Yep, I remember that as well. Remember as kids my dad got some Rustoleum from my uncle (since he worked on so much heavy equipment they used it a lot at his construction company) and oh boy the whole yard smelled like dead fish. My mom was so mad at him for using it. Even after it dried she complained we smelled like fish. No fish to be found in my hood. Our neighborhood was classy, we had rats as big as Lassie

 

[Bruce]

I used the exact same can of paint a few days before on other pieces and it dried just fine. (I never detected any fish smell either) LOL.

 

[Bruce]

SS Platinum rehab: ( I kept the cabinet )
9mm SS grates
16 gauge flavo bars
Aluminum cabinet floor
And it is not open cart. I salvaged the cabinet.

 

[Steve Hoch]

Wow, nice job Bruce! It looks like you did a little welding too, very professional looking.

 

[Bruce]

Yah, I had to weld in the front and back cross members. Then I had to weld the frame extensions to solve the dropsies problem with the side shelves and then I had to tack the lid liner back into place.

 

[Steve Hoch]

Yah, I had to weld in the front and back cross members. Then I had to weld the frame extensions to solve the dropsies problem with the side shelves and then I had to tack the lid liner back into place.

What did you paint the end caps with? It looks pretty close to the original color.