I will just leave this here


 
On a genesis 1000 or Silver B lid, what tips or tricks are there for removing screws holding the lid to the end caps?

And can the originals be salvaged? Or should plan on replacing these?
 
I pry a sharp chisile under the nut while I use a drill/driver with a 7/16 socket to unscrew the nut. That causes tension on the bolt head which has serrations to keep it from spinning.
One tip is to use a long adapter on the drill/driver so you can take a more straight on angle at the nut, otherwise the angle makes it tough to get a good grip on those nuts.
 
DanHoo said:
On a genesis 1000 or Silver B lid, what tips or tricks are there for removing screws holding the lid to the end caps?

And can the originals be salvaged? Or should plan on replacing these?
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If all else fails, you can crush the nuts with a vise grips, or partially cut them with a Dremel cut-off and split them with a screwdriver or chisel as a wedge. You can clean up the threads on the bolt for re-use with a thread file if needed or just replace them with SS button or flathead screws. In industry, it's a good practice to use a flat washer with a slotted hole as is punched on the lid, but I'm sure not many people bother
 
DanHoo said:
On a genesis 1000 or Silver B lid, what tips or tricks are there for removing screws holding the lid to the end caps?

And can the originals be salvaged? Or should plan on replacing these?
Click to expand...
Dan, I found that using a wire brush on the nut side to clean all the gunk off made it a lot easier to remove them. I also used a a very small flat head screwdriver inserted between the head of the bolt and it's hole on the end cap to keep some of them from spinning while loosening. I was able to reuse all of the nuts and bolts. After cleaning and painting them they were like new.
 
DanHoo said:
On a genesis 1000 or Silver B lid, what tips or tricks are there for removing screws holding the lid to the end caps?

And can the originals be salvaged? Or should plan on replacing these?
Click to expand...
Dan I don't know if you know this but the nuts are not solid, they are hollow. Not sure what good that fact is, but thought I'd share it. I agree though, they are tough to get out. I've done it on probably three lids, and hate doing it. Each time if felt like it was not possible, but each time I took a break and went back after them, and always defeated them. I have seen a few lids that have NO screws, they have studs coming off the end caps inside, so only nuts. If I ever see a CL grill with a lid like that, I may end up doing one more restoration because I would absolutely need those end caps. And wouldn't be able to waste the rest of the grill.
 
Thanks. I've got one set of end caps that are like new, but the hood was mutilated when they drilled for an extra thermometer. I'm hoping to get these separated.

I'd also like to separate my 1990 genesis 3 blue lid and do that one "proper" as this will likely be my forever sidewinder.

On one of the lids, I'm half tempted to mask the enamel and just paint the outside of the caps. The lid is basic black silver B and it's a quick touch up before I give it to a friend of a friend.
 
I did a tape job on the most recent 1000 I rehabbed for a family friend, and it came out great actually. I always stick the screws into cardboard and paint them with the end caps but taping off the lid was easier by a lot than getting those screws out. And I was surprised by how happy I was with the outcome. Plus, the screws end up perfectly painted in place, as opposed to being handled later during reassembly. I really think totally removing the end caps gives you a minor if any advantage over just taping up the lid. There is a gap between the end cap and the porcelain that you can slide newspaper under, so you can spray from the middle of the lid towards the end caps and really clean up that edge.

For my keeper with the maroon lid, I got some stainless Allen screws to replace the originals, and I like the way they look unpainted, so they are like that on the keeper. They easily unscrew due to the hex heads on the screws, which I also like.
 
THyde said:
For my keeper with the maroon lid, I got some stainless Allen screws to replace the originals, and I like the way they look unpainted, so they are like that on the keeper. They easily unscrew due to the hex heads on the screws, which I also like.
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Thanks. Do you have a link for the SS Allen screws?

I would consider these for my blue lid keeper. It's not 1990 original, but I think it would look good.

I'll go back and look and look at pics of yours.
 
DanHoo said:
Thanks. Do you have a link for the SS Allen screws?

I would consider these for my blue lid keeper. It's not 1990 original, but I think it would look good.

I'll go back and look and look at pics of yours.
Click to expand...
I can look for it. I found them somewhere on the forum, I'm thinking Bruce pointed me toward them for some reason but I can look later.
 
I was at a Home Depot yesterday and noticed they had a bunch of gas grills sitting outside the building with plastic sheeting over each one. I tried to get a photo, but I guess I didn't hit the button on my phone quite right. Anyway wrapping the, in plastic sheeting that doesn't breath and then leaving them out in the Wisconsin winter will not be kind to them. There had to be 30 of them of various brands, Weber included.
 
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