I can't get my 18" WSM hot enough


 
J

John_H

TVWBB Member
Ok, apparently I need help. I have repeatedly had trouble getting my wsm hot enough. Here is what I tried and/or checked yesterday to fix the problem.

I started with a brand new (from the store) bag of kingsford blue. I filled the water pan with hot water. I filled the ring with charcoal for the minion method. I then filled the chimney about 80% full and lit. After flames were coming out of the top of the chimney I put lit charcoal in the ring. most of the charcoal from the chimney was maybe 1/2 covered with ash. I, then put 4, 6.5lb butts on the smoker. I then put on the lid with ALL vents 100%. After about 2hours temp was right at 200. I then, opened the firebox and blew air on it so that coals got bright hot. The temp went up to 215 only to fall back down to 200 about 20 minutes later. I then checked to make sure nothing was obstructing the vent holes. After about 8 hours and the temp still around 200 I put more lit coals on.

I ended up finishing the butts in the oven. Any ideas as to why my smoker is not getting hot enought?
 
Temperature = air

You could crack the door a bit to get more air in. Another is to not put the lid on straight so there is a air leak.

How much fuel was left after the 8 hours?
How are you measuring your temperature?
 
And although outside doesn't have too much of an impact, it can. You don't put your location in your Sig. It'll help us help you if you do.
 
Lose the water. Go with a 14-inch terra cotta planter base, or put sand in the water pan instead. A lot of energy is used trying to heat up all of that water.
 
I've had trouble with some cooks they way you describe. Was there any wind at all? I have an angled patio and the wind whips from all directions. If there is even a breeze I have trouble as the wind sucks out the heat. On calm days my cooks are much more predictable.

Also I've noticed since I've switched to the Brinkman water pan the heat rises easier. With a full ring of charcoal the oem pan sat directly on top of the coals...sometimes even touching the coals if I was doing a real long cook with a lot of charcoal. This was smothering the coals and not allowing them to get enough air. The Brinkman is shaped so it sits higher up off the coals leaving plenty of space between the bottom of the pan and the coals.

Hope this helps,
Dan
 
Dan Crafton said:
I've had trouble with some cooks they way you describe. Was there any wind at all? I have an angled patio and the wind whips from all directions. If there is even a breeze I have trouble as the wind sucks out the heat. On calm days my cooks are much more predictable.

Also I've noticed since I've switched to the Brinkman water pan the heat rises easier. With a full ring of charcoal the oem pan sat directly on top of the coals...sometimes even touching the coals if I was doing a real long cook with a lot of charcoal. This was smothering the coals and not allowing them to get enough air. The Brinkman is shaped so it sits higher up off the coals leaving plenty of space between the bottom of the pan and the coals.

Hope this helps,
Dan
Click to expand...

Dan, do you have any links to any pictures showing the difference? I've often wondered this myself (if the stock pan was sitting too low) and it sure makes feeding more charcoal difficult. I've never thought about swapping out for a different pan but how much more "clearance" does it give you?
 
Chris Coward said:
Dan, do you have any links to any pictures showing the difference? I've often wondered this myself (if the stock pan was sitting too low) and it sure makes feeding more charcoal difficult. I've never thought about swapping out for a different pan but how much more "clearance" does it give you?
Click to expand...

Chris, I'm too computer ignorant to post s link but if you go to the main page Chris Alling... has link under "modifications" I believe. That's where I bought mine and I'm sure glad I did. Holds the same amount of water too.


Dan
 
Stupid question, but here goes because its been done before: Is the water pan on the tabs or is it, by any chance, resting directly on top of your charcoal? If you are barely getting 200, there is something amiss and it's not related to using water, sand, clay or whatever IMO. You evidently have this problem only sometimes which doesn't make sense if you're doing the same thing all the time.
 
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Chad M. said:
Lose the water. Go with a 14-inch terra cotta planter base, or put sand in the water pan instead. A lot of energy is used trying to heat up all of that water.
Click to expand...

While I don't completely lose the water, I have learned to seriously cut back for the very reason mentioned about the energy use.

But, mine wouldn't stall out at 200 like the OP. Instead mine would stall out at 250, which is a great place to stall. But, I wanted to go 300 once with some chicken and found I couldn't get the temps up high enough, even with all the vents open. I cut back on the water and now I can.

Haven't gone the route of a planter base yet.
 
Before you put your cooker together, let the lit charcoal start to light off some of the unlit charcoal in the ring.
Let your cooker come up to your target temperature before putting the meat on.
Don't use water. Either use another thermal mass, like a clay flower pot base or sand, or just foil the empty water pan.
You can try propping the door open with a wood stick.
WSM dome thermometers typically read 40F-50F lower than the temperature at the top cooking grate.

Good luck,

Bob
 
Thanks for all the wonderful tips. Here are some of the answers to questions

1) I am filling the pan very full with water (my thought was so I didn't have to add more)

2) After 8 hours I had at leat a 1/2 ring left.

3) I'm measuring temp by the lid temp gauge which I haven't checked admitedly in probably 2 years

4) Is putting too much charcoal a problem? I bet my water Pan almost was touching the charcoal. At first the charcoal was higher than the ring.

5) There was some wind but I'm fairly protected on the covered porch.

6) One other Question...when doing the MM, should all of the coals from the chimney be grey with Ash when you put them on?
 
I always fill my charcoal ring to the top, with the wood chunks mixed in.

I light my charcoal with a high output propane torch, in three places, in between the vents. I then let it sit for about 15 minutes before putting the cooker together.

A BernzOmatic JT850 lighting my 22 1/2" OTG.
jt785002.jpg


What my 22 1/2" WSM, with an 18 1/2" charcoal ring, looks like after lighting.
ribs0103.jpg
 
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John_H said:
Thanks for all the wonderful tips. Here are some of the answers to questions

1) I am filling the pan very full with water (my thought was so I didn't have to add more)

2) After 8 hours I had at leat a 1/2 ring left.

3) I'm measuring temp by the lid temp gauge which I haven't checked admitedly in probably 2 years

4) Is putting too much charcoal a problem? I bet my water Pan almost was touching the charcoal. At first the charcoal was higher than the ring.

5) There was some wind but I'm fairly protected on the covered porch.

6) One other Question...when doing the MM, should all of the coals from the chimney be grey with Ash when you put them on?
Click to expand...

you didn't leave your charcoal out to the elements did you? i'd change the fuel source and see if that is the problem.
 
John_H said:
6) One other Question...when doing the MM, should all of the coals from the chimney be grey with Ash when you put them on?
Click to expand...
Not necessary. Often, I'll start with 20-30 in the chimney, but dump when half are lit
 
Chad M. said:
Lose the water. Go with a 14-inch terra cotta planter base, or put sand in the water pan instead. A lot of energy is used trying to heat up all of that water.
Click to expand...

If you must use water , use a lot less. But I like the sand or clay saucer
 
Chad Bman said:
I found a HUGE difference between my dome thermometer reading and the et-732 grate temperature.
Click to expand...

Same here on a 22". I've had my Maverick reading a dead-on 250 and watched my dome thermometer run the gamut from 200 to 270. It seems very dependent on the outside temperature and how much wind there is.
 
Dave Alvarado said:
Same here on a 22". I've had my Maverick reading a dead-on 250 and watched my dome thermometer run the gamut from 200 to 270. It seems very dependent on the outside temperature and how much wind there is.
Click to expand...

Dome thermometers typically have too short of a stem and are therefore not far enough away from the top vent. The first thing I would do is check the thermometer. I just stick a probe thermometer that I trust (my thermapen) right next to the tip of dome vent and see if it's in the ballpark. It usually is (I have a longer stem). If it's reading correctly, then all the above about less water and more air apply.

One thing recommended above that I personally would not do is lighting the charcoal pile and leaving the unit unassembled (so the charcoal can get going). I think it's safer and more effective to assemble the wsm and crack the lid a little bit (chimney affect). The problem I have here is that no matter if you get all your charcoal going, if the air flow won't allow for anything above 200 degrees, all you'll be doing is riding the temp down. Fire needs air.
 
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