I am stumped!!!! Genesis II 310 3 burner ......calling all pro's.....the score so far is grill 1 Jim 0


 
Let me know if u spin those nuts off.....this is not my grill so I did not want to snap the studs off. It has always been a bolt in the past but from what I can see the stud is somehow screwed into the meat section of inside the cook box.....no bolt head on the inside. I did find the issue though. The metal frame rail underneath the manifold is jacked up....bent....took a hit of some kind. This has the burners fitting too tight on the valves which I guess is why the spark isn't lighting hole #1 on the burner.
 

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Tony Coloma said:
If you put the parts into the other grill, eventually you get to the one that is not fitting... or you can see what part is out of shape/position. Before. .aybe even measure. I believe you are right. Something is out of position. Possibly from a fall. Does the valve valence have a variance.
Click to expand...
You were all over it Tony.....good call
 
@JimV

Here are pics of the 435 that I was talking about.
In the first pic, I have already removed the nut from the bolt.

HlzJcaKh.jpg


Second pic shows the hole in the firebox along with the nut and
bolt.

WMCoQbEh.jpg


I am not seeing any stud that you are referring to. Is the inside of the
firebox clean enough to see the bolt head? The inside if the firebox
is fabricated with the retainer for the bolt head. Maybe it is gummed
up and you can't see it.

Of1AxqZh.jpg


I am looking forward to finding out what your fix is. I was lucky enough to
fix one by adjusting the tip on the igniter. The other, I simply swapped out
a spare manifold that I had, but am left with the bad manifold, and would
like to be able to put it to use at some point.
 
Bruce said:
The other issue is distance from the electrode to the burner. If it is too big of a gap, you won't get spark to arc good enough. But, you can also have too small of a gap. I learned this by trial and error. I had the same problem and kept adjusting the electrode gap smaller until it was tiny. Still no fire. I finally decided that can't be the problem and bent it back up....actually a bit further than I thought I should. I tried it any way and bam, it lit every time. I guess the spark needs to be big enough to ignite the propane.
Click to expand...
Sounds almost identical to setting the gap on a spark plug.
 
Thanks for the detailed info and pics Dave. I guess what I really want to know is did the nut come off willingly or did you really have to go after it. I read up on that hardware and the nut is designed to dig deep into the treads of the bolt and resist coming off. I assume that once you get it to let go of its initial grip it then just spins off easily???? Also I just watched a vid of the inside of the grill that I made for another reason and I could see the bolt head in the vid so you solved two of the issues for me. Now ...as for the fix....what a bazaar scenario. I sat in front of that grill for 2 hours today trying everything under the sun. I even inspected inside of the valve body.....looked for possible NG orifices....cut the slit in the burner wider so I would have some wiggle room. The previous session I tried another 310's burners, wires, starter, and regulator......all with no change. After everything that I have tried the only thing that works is a band aid fix. For whatever reason the gas is blowing by the first 3 holes in the burner. Other than that the grill performs perfectly. For the life of me I cannot wrap my head around what could cause this to happen. The manifold has a slight curve to it that maybe somehow is squeezing the air to flow faster initially yet the burners flames are perfect. I am confident that if I were to swap the manifold the problem would be solved. The band aid fix is to wire tie the starter electrodes forward so they pop on hole number 3 or 4. This makes me really want to see the inside of a 310 manifold.
 

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I guess at this point you have to figure that the spill the grill took is related to the problems you're having. I would consider just getting it to work properly again a victory no matter how you do it.
 
Yes agreed but now I am wondering if the manifold is now unsafe in anyway possible. This is my buddies grill and he wants to sell it so we have to be sure that it is safe. I will run it several times and do leak checks.
 
Jim, damage from a fall is possible. I would check to see if the valves are sitting inside the burners at the correct depth. It could be they are sticking into the tubes too far and blowing right past the first few holes under the electrode.....or worse yet, they are not in far enough.
 
Yes sir I have checked that over and over again. I have even tried to manipulate the space that the tube has to wiggle on the valve body. Also remember that I have the identical grill sitting right next to it for parts and measurements. No matter what I do.......the outcome is the same. If the starters are moved forward the grill works perfectly minus a few holes on the burners.
 
ps.....there are know scars or scratches to confirm a face plant either. All of the damage is from pressure put on the metal cross bar under the manifold and the manifold itself is slightly bowed. I am thinking ratchet straps may have done this damage. My buddy sent me a pic of how he hauled the two grills when he got them....I should include that pic for reference....it was not a textbook haul for sure and ratchet straps were used......and there were two grills riding in a pick up bed back to front.
 
Well, it certainly makes sense that something got bent somewhere along the line. For all we know, it came that way from the factory. Did your buddy buy it new or pick it up used?
 
JimV said:
I guess what I really want to know is did the nut come off willingly or did you really have to go after it.
Click to expand...

I used an impact as I typically do but it came off quite normally.
I would try swapping the manifolds. I believe this will confirm
your suspicions.
 
My buddy purchased it as a flipper. He hauled two home that day. He did not ask the seller to fire it up because he purchased the grill for $150 in otherwise amazing condition. He either strapped it too tight in all the wrong places or this grill was fork lifted....or something out of the norm that caused this upward pressure that bent the under structure and warped the manifold slightly. But if the manifold is just an open tube I dont get how a slight bend would cause it to blow gas past the first 3 holes in all of the burners.....its a mystery. I might just do the manifold swap today just to confirm that its the manifold.......but we already know its the manifold so that is kind of a waste of time and effort. Of course the other factors are the valves attached to the manifold. But burners and regulator have been swapped w no difference. This one is keeping me up at night.
 
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