HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
Can't wait to get mine! I suppose we will probably come up with a few upgrades along the way, the good thing is I think pretty much anything can be re-engineered and changed around... I hope they are counting on the heated bed mounting parts being precise enough that you don't need to level it once your y-axis is square, if not I guess a spring mount wont be too tough to rig up...
I'm hoping to hear you have it together and printing and are very impressed soon.... :)
 
If you can't adjust the bed, you will have to adjust the z-axes to ensure that they are orthogonal to the bed surface. You will never get a good print otherwise.
 
A typical bed height adjustment scheme would be four stiff springs under the heated bed mounting screws, right? Then just tighten the screws to level the bed? If so, that seems easy enough to accomplish..... Wonder why they didn't do that on the kit, perhaps they have a reason, or just trying to save money on 4 springs?
 
RalphTrimble said:
A typical bed height adjustment scheme would be four stiff springs under the heated bed mounting screws, right? Then just tighten the screws to level the bed? If so, that seems easy enough to accomplish..... Wonder why they didn't do that on the kit, perhaps they have a reason, or just trying to save money on 4 springs?
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People have actually been moving away from springs on the bed to using screws as adjustable standoffs. I personally still use stiff springs and find that they work quite well. I have a fairly expensive piece of borosilicate glass as my build surface and would be very upset if my hotend crashed into it and cracked it.
 
Tom Kole said:
People have actually been moving away from springs on the bed to using screws as adjustable standoffs. I personally still use stiff springs and find that they work quite well. I have a fairly expensive piece of borosilicate glass as my build surface and would be very upset if my hotend crashed into it and cracked it.
Click to expand...

I got my first piece of glass for a build surface yesterday, a whole $2.20... I dont know anything about glass types, or what would be better to build on? (and sources for it) I read somewhere that mirror is flatter than regular glass but the hardware store didn't have any mirror to sell me. I hope regular glass will be ok to build on? If not, I guess I should get looking into something better...

I think I read something about a next gen heated bed that you build right onto without any glass or tape? That would be nice....

On a side note, when I asked the guy at the hardware store to cut the glass for me, to the metric dimensions, he snarled at me a bit and said "convert it for me!" I said, "geeze, I would have done that at home if I had thought the hardware store wouldn't have access to metric measuring devices.... Doesn't that ruler on your glass cutter right there have metric on it?" It did... He shut up and cut the glass... lol
 
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You bought window glass. It will work, sort of. The problem with it is that it flexes, is not very tolerant of heat, and is not very flat. I used it for a while to until I eventually caved and invested in this:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-borosilicate-glass/=n5w561

You will find with your current glass that your surface layer will have variations in extrusion width due to the significant height inconsistencies. It can even lead to difficulty with parts of the print loosening off of the build plate.
 
Good news, everyone! I loosened the screws on my X Idler (that was sticking) and wiggled the smooth rod back and forth a bit which adjusted the linear bearings. Tightened them back up a bit and the Z axis moves fine now. I measured the diagonals and they're right on so it seems they're aligned. My phone makes a crappy level because there seems to be a lot of noise from the sensor so it bounces around by 1/3rd of a degree constantly. If I overtighten the screws it gets tough to move the rod so I think I'll leave it where it is for now and see if the prints work out. Everything is all wired up and all the bits seem to work other than the extruder which has a broken wire. I'll have to fix that tomorrow and see if I can get it to spit some goo. Then clean up this gigantic mess of wire friggin everywhere!
 
After printing several of the new square case design, I found that assembling with the new nut traps is a bit frustrating. Also, accidental over tightening will cause the nut to deform the little bit of plastic above. I decided to utilize the previous strategy of screws from above with nut traps below while maintaining the square form. This is what it looks like:

vo3prn.jpg


rh78n9.jpg


9tcx90.jpg


t055q1.jpg


Forgive the pictures of the test print. I used black because that's what I had on the printer at the time and it's what I have the most of.
 
Yeah, those nut traps are problematic. If you don't get the bridging just right then they tens to sag, which is a real pain in the *** when trying to embed the nut in the trap.

Did you insert a key or two into the new design to help with alignment issues?
 
M Miller said:
Yeah, those nut traps are problematic. If you don't get the bridging just right then they tens to sag, which is a real pain in the *** when trying to embed the nut in the trap.

Did you insert a key or two into the new design to help with alignment issues?
Click to expand...

I'm working on one with 4 keys (1 for each side) as we speak. I will print it up and post the files after confirming a fit. I keep getting called into work and might not get to print it until tonight though.
 
Tom - got the following message when I tried to PM you.

>> Tom Kole has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.
 
Here is the newest version:

30vp1ed.jpg


I printed it last night and it fits nicely. Files are posted on the front page. Let me know if you have any issues. 4-line display versions are currently being worked on, should be up in a few days.

Tom
 
I'm printing a version 2 case at the moment.

I'd really like to print the latest version 3 squared case. However, I can't work with the 123d source files. 123d Beta 9 isn't available anymore. Can you please post the stl files?

nga4o9.jpg
 
I'm wondering if you ever got the square case with the nut traps in the back (outside) done for the larger 4-line display? I have the larger square case now, but I never was able to find any nuts that fit into those internal nut traps, so I have screws just lightly gripping into the plastic but it is not secure. I would like to print up the case that has the nut traps in the back so I can secure this thing once and for all, cause I am afraid these screws are gonna let loose soon...
 
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