I think we can get it working everything as it was intended tomorrowCool.....ya I will be out in the garage tomorrow for round 2 with this beast. I am wondering if I can use a standard Gen II ignitor button ( in place of ) the ( knob light button ) its just a two post button I am sure it does the same thing.
Yeah, I was just curious to see the construction of the knob. I’m not likely much help here, but I’m rooting for a solution!Hey Cody.....yes the part that slips on the brass valve shaft breaks......I included pics a few posts back.
There are also 2 green wires that don’t go anywhere. I believe Weber probably made one wiring harness and used it for the 2,3, and 4 burner. That may explain the two extra green wires.Yes ....help me understand where both sets of green wires that come off of the back of the knob light button go please. Also is there anyway to fix the auto igniter via knob twist....is this fixed by replacing the starter box with the battery or is the issue most commonly the white starter on the valve bodies?
Btw you need to adjust the manifold (there are slotted mounting holes) so that the gas valves sit centered in the openings of the front control panel. If the knobs are not able to operate correctly and push in fully, the ignitors won't fire. You push the knobs in and turn to the ignitor setting so the ignitors fire.Ha! Ya it was supposed to be a fun project. I am sure I can just buy 2 new knobs.....2 new white starter cube things.....and a new knob light button. But thats not what we do here......we fix things here But we prefer to work on tried and true simple technology. Here are some pics of the beast.
Btw you need to adjust the manifold (there are slotted mounting holes) so that the gas valves sit centered in the openings of the front control panel. If the knobs are not able to operate correctly, the ignitors won't fire. You push the knobs in and turn to the ignitor setting so the ignitors fire.
You will see the two mounting bolts that hold the manifold assembly onto the frame (not the box). They have slotted holes just for this adjustment. I am guessing that the knobs were not able to push in and someone tried to force turn the knobs and that's why they broke where they mount on the gas valve shaft.I see you said slotted mounting holes......I will look into that tomorrow. Thanks again
If your knobs were not able to be pushed in and turned, then the ignitors won't function. I am hoping after correct alignment that the ignitors work.Thanks Josh. I think I just need to know if anyone has serviced or repaired the knob twist ignitors. The white boxes attached to the valve body. I dont have confidence that even when I line mine up correctly in the control panel that they will function correctly. I am heading out to the garage now.
Ahhhhh. my green wires that are hanging there don't have the iGrill tag in themJim: I assume these are the wires you are talking about. They are there to hook into an Igrill module if your grill has one. Mine are both connected to nothing.
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I have had no issues with my ignitors.Ok I am familiar with those manifold bolts. And regarding the extra green wire that makes sense.....maybe Weber just made one harness and that harness covered both the 2 burner and the 4 burner. So with the 2 burner you get an extra green wire that goes nowhere. What I really need to understand is if there is anyway to repair the knob ignitors if they arent working properly. That said none of you guys have reported issues with yours. Fingers crossed mine work after a little adjustment.