HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone


 
Ok, a possible workaround would be to put the vishay into a 2.5mm mono plug sticking out of the open end. I'd think they would give better values as well as the temp in the case would be skewed by the heat generated by the board. I'll keep looking, I have some jacks I've been using that came from Mouser and have that internally connected 3rd pin but they seem to have been discontinued.
 
RJ Riememsnider said:
Ok, a possible workaround would be to put the vishay into a 2.5mm mono plug sticking out of the open end. I'd think they would give better values as well as the temp in the case would be skewed by the heat generated by the board. I'll keep looking, I have some jacks I've been using that came from Mouser and have that internally connected 3rd pin but they seem to have been discontinued.
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That is what I am using for ambient temp. I am going to make one change however, I am going to make the plug into a dongle to completely eliminate heat coming in the end of the plug since it is open. I like this approach better than having the thermister inside the case. To much heat build up. I will probably solder the thermister to about 2 inch's of wire and then solder that wire to the plug. Then heat shrink the wire and the thermister. Simple to do and doesn't require a jack that allows both a plug or a soldered thermister.
 
I wanted to share that I got my Heatermeter up and running last night :)

Kgx1ha8.jpg


The only problem so far is the 4 way button doesn't work, only the down button seems to work and that's only after wiggling the button from left to right while pushing it down. Any suggestions on where to look?
 
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RJ Riememsnider said:
Did it go in easily? It might be possible to solder it in upside down, er, well i mean rotated 180 degrees.
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Apparently I forced it to fit the wrong way. Flipped it around and all is well, now I just need to figure out how to talk to it wirelessly. I got it connected to my wifi network but when I go to the address that my router assigned I get a connection error.
 
Yes I left the LAN interface on 192.168.200.1 but I had it connected to my laptop and my laptop disconnected from my wifi while configuring it. I didn't see many steps on getting the wifi set up on the wiki, has it all been brought up here before? If so I can search the thread again.
 
I followed the guide, I first removed the wireless interface I first added and followed the guide step by step. I still don't get an IP address showing up on the Interfaces page:

1H37O9G.jpg


Is that something with my router? I just use the router that AT&T gave me.
 
Uggggggg


I finally found the time to build mine get nearly finished and I cannot located the R6 10k TRIM_US-CT6 and radio shack doesn't carry it :-(
 
I'm searching through the fora and through the Arduino code, but I can't find out how you can set up a standalone HeaterMeter to use a 4x20 LCD. I found a source of cheap 4x20 lcds that work really well, and it's the only size LCD I have on hand. Can someone point me a the right thread, or share the details? Thanks!!

Jimmy
 
Bryan Mayland said:
You just need to set it over the serial interface. The parameter is "lb"(documentation)
Code: 
/set?lb=,254
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Hi Bryan,

Thanks fot the info. And thanks for a great project. Serial interface! I guess I'll have to install the FTDI header and try to use my ftdi board. I only installed the ICSP header. At least if I install the FTDI header on the wrong side, it will still work!

Thanks,

jimmy
 
Finally got my parts and OF course I ran into a problem somewhere. Got it all together. Put image on SD card. Put card in slot. Turned it on. The display lights up (no words) When I started it all three LCD lights lit up. The Pi itself has a red light and a had a slow flashing green ( I assume activity) Nothing is happening from there.


Do I have to do anything with the ATmega328? Similar to the linksys one and program it first?
 
If all is built properly the bottom LED on the HeaterMeter should be off until the firmware gets loaded (the other two are floating so they can be any state). The firmware is automatically loaded so there's nothing that needs to be done on that front. The Pi LEDs should have one for power then the activity LED should blink really fast as it loads then stay off. You won't get words on the LCD until the firmware gets loaded which happens about a minute into boot.

I had a thing where my Pi blinked the activity LED slowly like that and it was because something wasn't built right and pulling the voltage down so it didn't have enough power to boot. I think it was actually rebooting over and over. I'd check to make sure your chips are mounted the right way (one is one direction, one the other), and the diodes and voltage regulators are installed correctly. Beyond that, you could check the voltages without the Pi attached (assuming you installed the MCP1702 IC)
hmpi-power.png
 
I just realized that I am using a .5 amp instead of a 1a. Could that make the difference? I have to go buy a 1a. Radio Shack wants like 30 or 40 dollars for it.
 
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