Heatermeter 4.1 Troubles


 
Kloenie said:
Stupid me :(

Have put the MCP1700-33 on a place where a BC337 was needed.
Now it is correct. and have good readings on 5V and the 3.3V.

Have gone to the webpage and flashed the firmware, and the lcd backlight went on...

Now i stil have blocks on the display.

I can read temp with a tempmeter, but the blower is not blowing when needed.
It says blower speed 40% but the blower is off.

So 1 problem fixed, got 2 problems back :(
Click to expand...

Did you adjust the contrast pot on the HM board?

In your Config what are your Min/Max settings for the blower, and is "On at max only" checked, if so the blower wont come on until the HM hits 100%
 
also did this again :
VCC - 2 pins left of ground on J8 - 3.3V
RX - 1 to the left of VCC on J8 - 3.3V
RST - Top left pin on J6 - 3.3V

The RX is : 1,3V
 
adjust the contrast meter.
Just got more visible block's
Blower settings is : min 10 max 100
On at max only is not checked.
 
Did this again.

lmclient LMDC,0
cat /dev/ttyAMA0

Now i get a bunch of lines with 99,0*40

and then
echo -e "\\n/config\\n" > /dev/ttyAMA0"
then i don't get info back.
 
Whenever I have trouble getting a HM board going, specially after a rocky start/power issue, I usually force flash the ATMega once just to be sure it got done properly. Use the command avrupdate /lib/firmware/hm.hex to flash the AVR
 
RalphTrimble said:
Whenever I have trouble getting a HM board going, specially after a rocky start/power issue, I usually force flash the ATMega once just to be sure it got done properly. Use the command avrupdate /lib/firmware/hm.hex to flash the AVR
Click to expand...
Yeah I second that. Also check the shift register for any solder problems, since you are able to access the Web page.
 
If you power the rPi with USB the HM and rpi will work, but the fan wont blow, so make sure you are powering with 12V (ONLY, not 12v and USB).
Are you sure you dont have a cable issue on the fan, or using the wrong wires? What kind of cable are you using?
 
Kloenie said:
Shift register ?
Click to expand...

The shift register is the IC chip that is up by the display on the HM board, and from your pic it doesnt look to be soldered very well at all... On the top side I see all the traces are still gold, you may need to resolder and get solder to flow to the chip side of the board, cause the board is dual layer and needs to be soldered on both sides.
 
will do the shift register this evening.
The fan is connected with an utp connector wich is connected to a normal power plug and the other side the female/male on the fan.

HMbatch2-10.jpg


HMbatch2-9.jpg
 
It looks to be working, You need a probe plugged in, to get the blower to turn on, also make sure its not in manual mode or lid open. your ambient temp sensor seems way off, it usually reads on the higher side of ambient temperature, you need to make sure you have it Vishay(sp) or set for a probe and that's probably what it is set too
 
John Bostwick said:
It looks to be working, You need a probe plugged in, to get the blower to turn on, also make sure its not in manual mode or lid open. your ambient temp sensor seems way off, it usually reads on the higher side of ambient temperature, you need to make sure you have it Vishay(sp) or set for a probe and that's probably what it is set too
Click to expand...

John, this is not Kloenies HM but a picture that he borrowed from me just to show the crossover cable. :cool: The cable is made by me and was tested together with the blower before it was shipped out to Kloenie so I assume the problem is on the HM board.

The Pit3 temperature is in deg C, and the sensor is reading about 8 deg higher than ambient.
 
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Peter F said:
John, this is not Kloenies HM but a picture that he borrowed from me just to show the crossover cable. :cool: The cable is made by me and was tested together with the blower before it was shipped out to Kloenie so I assume the problem is on the HM board.

The Pit3 temperature is in deg C, and the sensor is reading about 8 deg higher than ambient.

I
Click to expand...

Lol, yeah that pic he posted, was making me scratch my head as I was wondering where he was able to get the cable and where the squares he was experiencing from the previous post. Ah, yeah Celsius, I forget sometimes that the world actually laughs at us for using F. Thanks for clarification.
 
thanxs peter F for the clarification :D
am going to solder the IC Chip on the board side to.

//edit

Put some solder on the boardside of the IC Chip.
Stil the same on the lcd.
lcd.jpg


also see an error on the linkmeter -> configuration ->
HeaterMeter Information
Version 20131007B
Serial checksum errors: 1
Also in the systemlog : Jun 18 22:36:11 BBQMeter user.warn lucid[349]: Checksum failed: $HMSU,39,21.9,U,$

Maybe someone understand the error's i am out of any idea's
 
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Maybe this time try removing the ATMega chip from the socket, then reflow solder to the socket, reinstall the chip. If it doesn't boot up properly then force flash the AVR again (like you did earlier).
 
Serial checksum errors happen from time to time but it isn't a problem unless you're seeing a ton of them. The AVR chip is fine. There's no such thing as getting "half flashed" or something and it's communicating so it's definitely flashed. You may want to check these LCD pins again now that you've got the 3.3V power fixed.

LCD
1 - GND
2 - 5V
3 - ~1V (adjust the pot until this reads about 1V)
4 - Should be steady but bounce around once a second
5 - GND
6 - behaves like 4
7,8,9,10 - no connection
11,12,13,14 - behaves like 4
15,16 - don't care

If those are bad then check at the shift register starting with the top row of 8 pins (looking at the solder side of the board as in your photo there) from the left.
16 - 0V (LED)
15,14,13,12,11,10 - behaves like LCD4
9 - GND
Bottom row starting at left
1 - 3.3V
2 - 0V (LED)
3,4,5,6 - behaves like LCD4
7 - 3.3V
8 - no connection

Oh and there's no need to solder both sides of the board. They're connected through the holes because the holes are electrolplated with copper. The only reason there'd be an advantage to this is if the solder joint on the solder side is bad (almost always the case), or the component or board has been massively damaged.
 
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Well, Bryan, leave it to me to disagree with the master, but....
On my first build I didn't have the ATMega socket soldered in very well, solder didn't flow to the top side of the board. When I booted up the first time the AVR "flashed", kinda, but since the solder work was poor it didn't flash fully and didn't work right. I resoldered the ATMega socket making sure there was solder flow to the traces on the top side of the board, the HM still didn't work right, after much playing around I reflashed the ATMega and from then on it's worked perfect.
Granted, I didn't actually solder on the top side of the board, just resoldered from the bottom side and wiggled the legs on the socket while I was melting solder on the connection so it would flow down the leg to the other side of the board, but this was a problem for me and the ATMega did get partially flashed, or flashed badly or something, cause it wouldn't work until I manually flashed it again.
 
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