Genesis Silver B igniter question


 
Jerry Gavin said:
The connections were made correctly. If I do buy another igniter, I’ll make sure the contacts are cleaned before installing. I’ve seen photos were the tab for the white wire is bent at a 45 outside the box, is that correct?
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Been a while since I replaced one, but the instructions said it was important to bend the white tab down (90 degrees if I remember). Perhaps it prevents arching? Definitely bend it down.
 
JSaus said:
Been a while since I replaced one, but the instructions said it was important to bend the white tab down (90 degrees if I remember). Perhaps it prevents arching? Definitely bend it down.
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The design of the original igniter in the very first generation of Weber gas grills was held in place with a screw. That's why we have two holes in the cookbox rather than some other arrangement.

Original Igniter.png

There was no gas collector hood...the electrode (missing in this picture) was bent and directed towards the burner and the spark would jump to the burner. This was problematic because the screw would get frozen in place and impossible to remove...so Weber designed the hooded system that we are stuck with today, to fit cookboxes that weren't originally designed for this style of igniter. That's also why the hood is so thin...the metal has to be thin enough so the a tab fits through the original screw electrode hole and bent over far enough to support the igniter electrode which is mounted to the hood. The angle that the tab is bent isn't critical...its purpose is to support the ceramic electrode and hood assembly and provide a ground connection for the igniter.

EDIT: I was corrected later on in this discussion. Also, I'm not sure where I found this picture so I can't give credit for it...it is not my picture.
 
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Ed P said:
The design of the original igniter in the very first generation of Weber gas grills was held in place with a screw. That's why we have two holes in the cookbox rather than some other arrangement.

View attachment 52229

There was no gas collector hood...the electrode (missing in this picture) was bent and directed towards the burner and the spark would jump to the burner. This was problematic because the screw would get frozen in place and impossible to remove...so Weber designed the hooded system that we are stuck with today, to fit cookboxes that weren't originally designed for this style of igniter. That's also why the hood is so thin...the metal has to be thin enough so the a tab fits through the original screw hole and bent over far enough to support the igniter electrode which is mounted to the hood. The angle that the tab is bent isn't critical...its purpose is to support the ceramic electrode and hood assembly and provide a ground connection for the igniter.
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That's pretty interesting Ed, I didn't know that. When I replace those igniters I feed the terminal for the white wire through that second hole. I thought that's what it was for.
 
Steve, I do the same thing. One posibility is that Weber did you use a different igniter originally, but changed later on and adapted the new igniter to use that "screw" hole as the place for the terminal to pass through.
 
Steve Hoch said:
That's pretty interesting Ed, I didn't know that. When I replace those igniters I feed the terminal for the white wire through that second hole. I thought that's what it was for.
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Wow, how does that even work? What holds the igniter up? You've got two holes, one for the ceramic to poke through and one for the tab.
 
Ed, there should be a bigger tab that passes through the hole with the ceramic electrode. That is what gets bent up at a 90 degree angle.
 
So you bend the smaller tab up and inside the cookbox and attach the wire there? That would never occur to me to do it that way.

1654288974602.png
 
Steve Hoch said:
That's pretty interesting Ed, I didn't know that. When I replace those igniters I feed the terminal for the white wire through that second hole. I thought that's what it was for.
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Ok, terminal = tab. To me, the terminal is what terminates the wire, the tab is what the terminal attaches to. Semantics.

EDIT: I totally forgot that larger supporting tab is there. I should have gone out and looked.
 
Steve Hoch said:
You mean my garage grill? I did clean all the dust and spider webs off of it a couple weeks ago.
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I sure would like to know if that powder coating on the inside of the cookbox helps keep the insides clean! Seems like it would, as well as eliminate the white powder corrosion. But that's another subject for another day...
 
I looked into adapting this more modern setup at one time, to eliminate the rusted out hood issue. Of course, with a crossover tube you would only need one electrode. Again, not my picture, but unknown where I got it so I can't give credit.

1590860022773.jpeg
 
Ed P said:
I sure would like to know if that powder coating on the inside of the cookbox helps keep the insides clean! Seems like it would, as well as eliminate the white powder corrosion. But that's another subject for another day...
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Yes, I am interested in knowing that too, but I still can't bring myself to use the grill!
 
Steve Hoch said:
Yes, I am interested in knowing that too, but I still can't bring myself to use the grill!
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What you need to do is rehab another one the exact same way (maybe not a Skyline), then use one and keep one. You'd have to have an understanding wife, of course...
 
Ed P said:
I sure would like to know if that powder coating on the inside of the cookbox helps keep the insides clean! Seems like it would, as well as eliminate the white powder corrosion. But that's another subject for another day...
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Ed, that photo is of the outside of the cook box.
 
Oh, well dang. That does look cool. I am not sure, but I think the High Temp powder coatings might be safe from the fumes you get from the High temp regular paint.
 
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