Genesis Silver A (2006) refurb


 
Bill Pudim said:
I cringe when someone says they don’t clean their grill because a dirty grill cooks better… lol
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Imagine you get invited over for a BBQ and I fire up it and you get the smoky lard smell coming off it? And I say to you, it adds flavour to the meat. Judging by the previous owner's nice house and cars, the grill seemed a little out of place...
 
I think it's a bit of a balancing act. A sparkling clean grill, in my opinion does not cook as well as one that has some "seasoning." But, there is a limit, and when things get crudded up really badly, then off-flavors and maybe worse can be a problem.
 
When it is someone elses "seasoning" am a bit afraid to just fire it up and cook on it. But, I don't see much point in taking it down to bare metal just to gunk it back up with my own stuff.
 
Like I say to keep myself motivated to thoroughly clean flip grills, “Your crud is seasoning; someone else’s seasoning is crud.”
 
JakeBull said:
Tools used to clean her up.

- Angle Grinder
- Cordless Drill
- Various sized wire brushes
- Excel Safety Scraper and many spare blades
- Various wire brushes to get into all the corners.
- Scotch-Brite pads
- Scotch-Brite "Roloc" surface conditioning disc - Absolutely amazing product. Highly recommended
- Oven cleaner
- Sand paper
- Steelwool 0000
- All Purpose Cleaner / degreaser
- Meguiars trim detailer gold class to bring back to life all the plastic bits.


Paint used
- POR 15 Cleaner / Degreaser
- POR 15 Metal Prep - only on worst of the rusted areas
- Eastwood rust encapsulator
- VHT Rust converted
- Rust-Oleum "Hard Hat" for frames parts not near heat.
- VHT Caliper Paint for top frame sections and end caps
- VHT Flameproof for cook box. This is a matt colour.
- VHT Flameproof Satin Clear for cook box.

If the Rust-Oleum Hight Heat Ultra was available in the UK then I would have used that instead of the VHT paint.
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Hi there, I just wanted to thank you for listing all of the products out. I am trying to rehab a grill myself, and the cleaning and painting products needed are unfamiliar territory to me, so this is helpful.

Few questions for you:
  1. Were the Roloc pads what really got the inside clean or was it more of a "spray oven cleaner, wait, scrape with razor?" The wire brushes in the corners is a good thought. For personal use, would you have gotten it that clean? I'm thinking I can probably stop well short of how incredibly clean you went, but I guess I'm not certain if it'll make a big difference to go all the way with it.
  2. I'm seeing a lot of products in the paint area that I sorta assumed overlapped, so I'm hoping you can help me figure out what is used for what. The cleaner / degreaser I assume was used on all surfaces initially. Would the next item be the rust converter, and would you use that everywhere? I believe that product actually changes rust to... I dunno, some other compound that you maybe need to brush away after?
  3. If I'm right about the order so far, does the the Metal Prep go on next in the worst areas to creating additional etching for the paint to adhere?
  4. Then finally, I suppose the rust encapsulator would go on to try and seal up the still-exposed rust in the places it couldn't be fully sanded or broken down by rust converter - is that correct?
  5. Finally I see that you have a matte paint listed for the cook box along with a clear satin finish. Is the clear coat needed to seal the paint and make it a bit more heat and water resistant, or is that more about the way it looks? Presumably the high heat ultra rust-oleum you mentioned is a 2-in-1 solution then?
Sorry for all the questions, I just can tell that you really have a good understanding of this process. Thanks again for your post!
 
Hey Kevin,
Welcome to TVWBB!

I would recommend you look at the “how to” sticky thread at the top of the gas grill section. It has the combined experience of years of members’ contributions. I think you will find it to be helpful. Best wishes! Post some pictures of your progress if you can.
 
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