Genesis Refurb - Ultra (semi-gloss) vs High Heat (satin)


 
Just trying to brainstorm why the flaking is happening. Brake cleaner / carb cleaner is harsher than rubbing alcohol, but a good soap clean with water then rubbing alcohol should be enough to clean and prep most metal surfaces for paint, assuming any burned on grease has been removed mechanically.
 
Thanks for all your help. Luckily I have two grills I’m picking the best parts off for my keeper. I’ll do another sand and throw these end caps on the flip grill. I’ve started stripping the other end caps to bare aluminum so hopefully that will go better for the keeper.
 
The brake and carb cleaners leave NO residue. I always use them and when dry just paint right over. I have never had an issue. Rubbing alcohol will leave moisture behind because it is not pure alcohol and so leaves water after the alcohol evaporates. That moisture on cast aluminum can interfere with paint adhesion
 
Jon Tofte said:
Jeff, That is a whole new option I had never even seen. Thanks for sharing. I will be interested to see how Bruce does with the charcoal gray. The Goldenfire Brown looks pretty close on my iPad, but I wonder if it is really as gray as my screen makes it look. Maybe I will be the guinea pig for that one since I have two Genesis 300 series that need repainting.
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I just recieved my sample just like above in the mail. I took it out to try to match one to my E320 and there are none that really come close at all. I suppose the closest would be Goldenfire brown but it is still way too dark.
 
I used Rustoleum HHU on my end caps. I love the look but the product itself is not working. It has never hardened, and my cover sticks to it. Paint sticks to the cover, the end caps have impressions of the fabric on them. I've read of others having the same problem. I'll have to redo them with a different paint which sucks.

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It's not the fault of the paint but the cover. The cover has compounds in it that in the sun and ozone, etc, will soften the paint due to it off gassing solvent properties. I'll lay odds if you did not cover it the paint would harden and stay that way
 
Yah, I always let the paint dry for several days before real use. I also believe that the HHU paint should be "burned in or hardened" by applying heat to it for a half hour.
 
No matter what you do there are just some vinyl compounds that will always react with paint. I don't think the OEM paint Weber uses on the sides is normal solvent based paint. I will lay odds it's a powder coat type that is baked in. Also remember when they paint that metal it's "virgin" IOW it has not been exposed to high heat, grease, dirt and the like. Once that metal is exposed to these elements no paint will ever stick the same.
 
Yah, that Weber paint is definitely not your run of the mill paint. It is much thicker and much more durable than the regular rattle can paint.
 
Well some new info on my end cap problem.

Walmart Supertech brake cleaner DOES remove paint. I sprayed a little on the end cap I painted with Ultra, and the spray paint ran off like it was water. This was 6 days after spraying it. I’m guessing my scraping and sanding loosened up the original paint enough that the brake cleaner helped peel the edges up. The the Ultra on top looked all flaky.
 
Jim Falc said:
Well some new info on my end cap problem.

Walmart Supertech brake cleaner DOES remove paint. I sprayed a little on the end cap I painted with Ultra, and the spray paint ran off like it was water. This was 6 days after spraying it. I’m guessing my scraping and sanding loosened up the original paint enough that the brake cleaner helped peel the edges up. The the Ultra on top looked all flaky.
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Jim that is a shame the denatured alcohol is milder as I rubbed some parts down before spraying and no such issue when I re-sprayed my end caps took them down to bare metal I am sure the brake cleaner would be fine I used acetone and even though they looked clean there was still some paint residue on the rag when I wiped them down before spraying.

I am starting to believe they may have changed the formula for the ultra, people have been using that on this board with good results for a long time my experience and if you look at my thread on the caliper paint the ultra was a disaster after cooking a few times. Rob had a problem with the cover sticking to the paint and he is not the only one, on the other board the moderator who does some pretty nice restores won't use it anymore.

The caliper paint I used does not have enough time on it to judge the final results but I will update my thread, since Jon found the Krylon and they are selling it at Lowes now which they did not when I used the caliper paint I would give that a try you might not have any choice now but to grab the wire cup and take them down to the metal. Using the brake cleaner on the bare metal should be fine.
 
The issue with rattle can paint is it is not able to stand up to ANY solvent (not even alcohol) without softening. You have to go to a more commercial type or powder coat to stand up to even detergent for that matter
 
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