Genesis Gold C Rehab


 
J

Joel Isen

New member
So I am not sure if I have an issue or not. I am nearly finished rehabbing this Gold C which is now a Gold B after capping off the outlet at the manifold. Serviced the valves. Ordered new burners and a few other parts. Installed the new burners yesterday. No leaks. Testing on high. The top burner is perfect. The middle and lower have too much orange flame as evident in one of the pics. The only way I can get those two burners to a lesser orange is to open the shutters completely, which, I understand is against conventional wisdom. You can see the improvement in the character of the flame in the other pic. It’s also noisier (whistling) with the shutters completely open on those two and on high. Turning those two burners down a bit gives a perfect blue flame. I also did a burner swap with the top one to the bottom and made no difference, so, the new burners are fine. Is there an issue here, or, do I just use it with the shutters completely open on those two burners.

PXL_20240411_183337902.MP.jpgPXL_20240411_183631803.MP.jpg
 
I’ve seen this exact situation before in my shop. Everything you describe is spot-on for what I went through right down to the whistling. For me, it turned out to be a case of the wrong burner tubes. I can’t recall exactly which way the story went, but I inadvertently used a set of 7506 tubes where I should have been using a set of 7508 tubes (or vice versa).
 
Did you grease the internals on the valves? I've seen a couple of cases where the gas flow was obstructed by too much grease in the valves.
 
TomRc said:
but I inadvertently used a set of 7506 tubes where I should have been using a set of 7508 tubes (or vice versa).
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The difference there is the length of the tubes and the wrong ones wouldn't fit the grill properly. They would either be too long or too short.
 
Steve Hoch said:
The difference there is the length of the tubes and the wrong ones wouldn't fit the grill properly. They would either be too long or too short.
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Correct. With properly being the key word. Yet I somehow managed to finagle the longer tubes into a Silver B. I remember it all too well. The tubes were a set of Amazon knockoff burners that have been discussed elsewhere here (the ones that have been coming with 12-3/4” crossover tube instead of the 13-1/2” they were supposed to have). Maybe tolerances were just off enough to allow the error. I’ll never know. But, I’ll never make the mistake again. Anyways, OP has a 13 bar box so it would have to be a case of too short (28-1/2” outers vs the needed 29-1/8”). Op says that’s not the case, so I’d be trying a regulator reset and then swapping the hose and regulator from there.
 
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Sorry but forgot to mention that I have tried a regulator swap also. In fact those pics above are with another known working regulator and hose. So you guys agree that it is an issue if I have to keep those shutters wide open? If so, looks like possibly a manifold or valve issue then?
 
Just to cover all of our bases, we’re not dealing with a gas conversion anywhere along the way, correct? If so, the only thing left in the gas train is the manifold and valves themselves. You’ve come this far. Might as well disassemble each of the valves again and look for something amiss there that might've resulted from the previous service effort. If the burners are aftermarket, I wouldn’t rule out them as a potential source of the problem just yet, either. My grill flips number in the hundreds over the years and most burners are acceptable right out of the box without adjustment. I’m that weirdo that tweaks them anyways in search of the perfect flame and I have never needed to open shutters all the way. Maybe consider biting the bullet on some OEM Weber tubes just in case if it’s going to be a keeper.
 
As @TomRc mentioned, you should probably circle back to the manifold and the two valves corresponding with the odd flame pattern. It could be as simple as blowing compressed air through the manifold to clean out any possible debris or excess grease.
 
Those shutters should never have to be all the way open. So, you definitely have an issue. First off are they OEM burner? if not I would start there. If the grill worked ok with OEM put them back in, or buy a set of OEM. I know someone mentioned if you "restricted" the gas flow with grease. Well no as if that was the case you would not have the issue of obviously too much fuel in the A/F ratio.
If you did a gas conversion...................ding ding ding. If not somewhere down the line there is an issue. I would retrace your steps
 
So the consensus is that there is an issue. The regulator has been ruled out. The swap that I did with the good tube had the issue follow a valve, not that tube, indicating to me that valve wasn’t working right. I assume the same will happen putting that good tube on the other valve. So to me that indicates either valves or manifold. In Canada, the new manifolds are very expensive. Donor grills with that manifold are few and far between. Is there anything that I can try in the way of cleaning, taking apart, or servicing the valves or manifold other than the service I already performed on them?
 
You sure you put the orifices back in place? If so............Installed correctly? Had to be something you did or installed in it.
 
If you are referring to placement of the valves into the tubes, then yes. If you mean actual orifice removal, I never took them off. I did clean them with a small wire though when I serviced the valves.
 
Well not sure what to tell ya here. Are the original tubes "serviceable"? If so, what happens if you reinstall the originals? To my eyes those flames (all of them) look too high as well regardless of the color. They just look like giant blow torches
 
The original tubes are far from serviceable. I may have found the problem if an older post is correct. To check orifice size, I don’t have a 3/64 inch bit, as the smallest I have is 1/16. But an old post said that the orifices are black for NG, and brass coloured for LP. These are NG. If true, then this manifold is NG.
 
Joel Isen said:
The original tubes are far from serviceable. I may have found the problem if an older post is correct. To check orifice size, I don’t have a 3/64 inch bit, as the smallest I have is 1/16. But an old post said that the orifices are black for NG, and brass coloured for LP. These are NG. If true, then this manifold is NG.
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All orifices LP and NG are made of brass. So not valid. They turn "off color" to black as they corrode. But their natural color is brass not black regardless of fuel used
 
Joel Isen said:
If you are referring to placement of the valves into the tubes, then yes. If you mean actual orifice removal, I never took them off. I did clean them with a small wire though when I serviced the valves.
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Ok, I'm going to try again. Remove the orifices from the valves along with the plug you put in for the side burner. Then blow compressed air through the manifold to clear any possible obstruction. If you don't have a compressor try shaking the manifold to see if anything comes out. You may also have to take those valves apart again if this doesn't work. Forgive me if you have already tried these things.
 
LM, Then I will see if I can grab a 3/64 inch bit tomorrow to verify that it is a LP manifold in reality. Because one valve works perfectly, that may be an indication that it is. This entire issue is new to me. Any of the other Webers that I have rehabbed have not had any issues with new burners.

Steve, that is the road I am headed down tomorrow. I have a compressor.
 
You never know..... the previous owner(s) may have hillbilly'd it and drilled out the orifices ---- I know my neighbor said he did a swap from lp to ng and all he did was 'drill them out just a little bit bigger'...... scared the hell out of me because 'he saw it on YT'. Sometimes you just never know. Myself --- I've toyed with getting smaller orifices since I don't crank the hell out of any grill I have --- I DON'T need 600-700 degree heat, but I would like the grate temp to be lower than 325-350 when they all are set on LOW.
 
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