Genesis 3000 Side Burner Orifice


 
B

BryceB

New member
Hey all,

Took over a Genesis 3000 from my Grandpa who had taken it all apart. I’ve got the main burners running and have had a few successful cookouts. However the side burner lights up into a fireball anytime I light it. Turns out it is missing the orifice from the valve. Does anyone know what size the orifice is so I can get a replacement? The side burner orifice ID seems to be much larger than the main burner orifices which have the 7mm hex head in them.

Thanks in advance!
Bryce
 
Sorry Bryce. I was just going to get back to you this AM. I did look. It was only a piece of the hose not the valve stuff. Didn't mean to get your hopes up
 
BryceB said:
Hey all,

Took over a Genesis 3000 from my Grandpa who had taken it all apart. I’ve got the main burners running and have had a few successful cookouts. However the side burner lights up into a fireball anytime I light it. Turns out it is missing the orifice from the valve. Does anyone know what size the orifice is so I can get a replacement? The side burner orifice ID seems to be much larger than the main burner orifices which have the 7mm hex head in them.

Thanks in advance!
Bryce
Click to expand...
LP? Or NG?
 
What is the orifice. I have a side burner from an old Genesis but I do not know what I would be looking for.
 
The orifice is the little part at the end of the valves where the gas comes out and goes into the burner tubes.

Genesis 1000 Manifold.jpg
 
I do not think I have that.

All I have is the hard to find good lid and ignitor bracket.

20240415_203853.jpg20240415_203913.jpg20240415_203931.jpg
 
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Just look at this chart. Not sure of the BTU of the side burner (IIRC it's 10k) but quite honestly they're pretty "underperforming" at that rating. I think bumping it to 15k and they are still quite manageable and perform so much better. It's what I did to my own. I don't recommend doing this inside the grill (i.e. the main burners) as that can get dangerous REALLY quick since the grill is designed around a certain BTU, temp and ventilation requirement. But on an open burner like that no reason you can't bump it 30% to 50%. I think the reason they're run so low from factory is because there will always be that one dummy that will close the lid on the burner and leave it lit and cause a melt down

Anderson & Forrester | Conversion Chart | Natural Gas & LP

Anderson & Forrester provides a conversion chart to guarantee an easier experience in finding the correct product to fit your needs
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com
 
LMichaels said:
Just look at this chart. Not sure of the BTU of the side burner (IIRC it's 10k) but quite honestly they're pretty "underperforming" at that rating. I think bumping it to 15k and they are still quite manageable and perform so much better. It's what I did to my own. I don't recommend doing this inside the grill (i.e. the main burners) as that can get dangerous REALLY quick since the grill is designed around a certain BTU, temp and ventilation requirement. But on an open burner like that no reason you can't bump it 30% to 50%. I think the reason they're run so low from factory is because there will always be that one dummy that will close the lid on the burner and leave it lit and cause a melt down

Anderson & Forrester | Conversion Chart | Natural Gas & LP

Anderson & Forrester provides a conversion chart to guarantee an easier experience in finding the correct product to fit your needs
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com
Click to expand...
Thanks @LMichaels. I appreciate the help!
 
Bryce, I just am finishing up a Silver C rehab and havent tested the main burners or side burner yet. I can do that after it get darker out tonight and I will post a photo if I remember.
 
Here you go. This is my Silver C side burner flame. I adjusted it to LOW and back to HI to show the difference, which isn't really that much. The side burner flames are suceptible to flaming out with windy conditions, so Weber cannot let it get too low.

 
LMichaels said:
Just look at this chart. Not sure of the BTU of the side burner (IIRC it's 10k) but quite honestly they're pretty "underperforming" at that rating. I think bumping it to 15k and they are still quite manageable and perform so much better. It's what I did to my own. I don't recommend doing this inside the grill (i.e. the main burners) as that can get dangerous REALLY quick since the grill is designed around a certain BTU, temp and ventilation requirement. But on an open burner like that no reason you can't bump it 30% to 50%. I think the reason they're run so low from factory is because there will always be that one dummy that will close the lid on the burner and leave it lit and cause a melt down

Anderson & Forrester | Conversion Chart | Natural Gas & LP

Anderson & Forrester provides a conversion chart to guarantee an easier experience in finding the correct product to fit your needs
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com
Click to expand...
So, Larry, if a guy wanted a NG orifice for say 15000 BTU, what size would he drill it to?

Oh, never mind. I just realized the columns are for the Water Column pressure. So, if he wanted 15,000 BTU at 7" WC, he would drill it with a #52 bit?
 
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