Heirloom Redhead Genesis 2000 Restoration

[SClark]

My dad was getting rid of the Weber that he's had for as far back as I can remember, so of course I said I would take it. It's lived in a screened in porch so hasn't seen as harsh weather as it otherwise might have but there is definitely still some work to do. According to the serial number this was initially a '96 1000, but it got combined with parts from a 2000 redhead about 10-15 years ago.

The slats need replacing, the drip pan has a hole in it, and there is some rust throughout. It is also missing one of the rails for the drip pan, and the screws for them were seized.

 

[SClark]

So first up, I cut, stained, and applied finish to around 42 wooden slats... Not sure how I ended up with so many, I hadn't planned for extras. Not a bad thing to have, though!

The slats are red cedar, and stained with Minwax Red Mahogany stain. I've then finished them with a mix of Spar Varnish, Teak Oil, and Mineral Spirits.

While waiting for the stain and finish to dry, I got to work on the lid. It took a lot of scrubbing, but the recommendation of simple green and #0000 steel wool works well.

I also managed to find someone on craigslist selling a used drip pan for $25, which had been stressing me out.

 

[SClark]

I made a small sanding block for the lid to use with the steel wool to help get into the corner of the lip on the back, and also took the emblem off and repainted that. The few chips in the lid I treated with some red brake caliper paint.

I also stripped down all the Z-bars and repainted them although I have no pictures of that.

 

[SClark]

For the endcaps, I ended up suiting up to use a siphon style sandblaster with some walnut shell! Tarp and box did a good job at making it so I could reclaim the blasting material. After sandblasting I hit it with some wet-dry sandpaper up to 400, and then painted with flat black rustoleum. The paint flashed a little on one of the end caps but after spraying a couple more coats that toned down.

The firebox didn't need the sandblasting as much, I just took some sandpaper to it.

Getting the screws out of the firebox was a bit of a nightmare, but with patience and persistence (and my dad's help) we were able to get them out.

 

[G Schafer]

That’s looking real nice!
Gerry

 

[SClark]

My plan is to replace all the hardware with stainless. Most of which has been ordered from McMaster-Carr.

Now that I had the endcaps painted and the lid cleaned, it was time to assemble... but the flat cap hex screws didn't sit flush with the end caps. The issue is two-fold. The diameter of the screw is slightly too large, and the cone shaped bit also doesn't give enough clearance for the screw to sit in its spot.

So I set out to learn how to use my Grandpa's metal lathe so I could make some adjustments! After that, I painted them all flat black to match.

All of the work on this to date has been over the past four weekends... Next up will be the handle, and the frame... Starting to feel like the end is in sight!

 

[SClark]

Oh also I tried finding some replacement clips for the emblem but saw the suggestion to that red gasket stuff. That was way easier and I think will be longer lasting too.

 

[SClark]

I've cut a piece of teak to size for the handle but I'm not sure if I should route the holes into it or not. I like the grain pattern but it does look a bit plain as is. I think at minimum I need to add a round-over but am not sure what other details would be best.

What do you all think I should do with it?

 

[Bruce]

If you can find one of the old "Grill Out Handle Lights" that would be awesome.

 

[Chris Binny]

A big 'way to go!' on turning those screws down. I went on an endless search for replacement lid hardware and never really found anything that worked right so I've settled with the flax hex screws.

 

[LMichaels]

I would have simply countersunk the lid. LOL. Way easier. Definitely would have left them shiny stainless as well. Like the contrast. Anyway very nice work

 

[SClark]

A big 'way to go!' on turning those screws down. I went on an endless search for replacement lid hardware and never really found anything that worked right so I've settled with the flax hex screws.

Yeah I looked for a while but couldn't find anything. Now I'm wondering if I could turn some down that are an even closer match to stock (with the serrated underside and the flush top with no hex slot).

I would have simply countersunk the lid. LOL. Way easier. Definitely would have left them shiny stainless as well. Like the contrast. Anyway very nice work

I considered doing this, but I'd already painted the endcaps and this was a good excuse to learn how to use the lathe my grandpa left us. It added a bit more sentimentality to the restore.

 

[Chris Binny]

I would have simply countersunk the lid. LOL. Way easier. Definitely would have left them shiny stainless as well. Like the contrast. Anyway very nice work

Thats brilliant, i think i might do that.

 

[THyde]

Your profile picture looks like my workbench has many times, and will again at some point this summer! You're going to really enjoy that grill, great work keep posting we love it!

 

[SClark]

Updates...

I decided to get a Rockwell Jawhorse to make my life easier, and with its help went to town with an angle grinder on all the frame parts to remove as much rust as possible. The paint on there is really thick and I didn't have the patience to bring it all back down to bare metal although I know that would have given me the best finish. I've been without a functional grill for long enough!

A few of the legs had enough rust corrosion that it looked like a woodpecker got to it after I removed the rust. Those ones got filled with some epoxy and sanded back again.

I also tried repainting the wheels but they ended up too glossy so I sanded it back dull. The hubs that fit the axle were also white, not black, so I need to paint those...

 

[SClark]

I machined down two stainless full thread hex bolts to replace the two original bolts that hold the handle. Painted them black as well so it looks stock.

Painted all the frame pieces...

And finally it was time to put together all the wood slats!

For the upper ones I used 1/4" hex nuts turned on their side. For the bottom one I had 5/16" hex nuts which I had seen recommended. I felt like I needed them spaced slightly more than that though, so I ripped a piece of wood and cut it into little spacer boxes using the bandsaw.

The manifold bars that connect to the grill needed a bit of repair, this grill was missing its bracket, so over the years all the force of pushing down on those knobs had taken its toll I think. I had to bend them back up slightly (by only a couple of degrees) to lift up the valves a little higher so the knobs could turn freely. I then fashioned a bracket to help it stay where it needs to be in the future. I'll need to grab a picture of that.

 

[SClark]

I've done a test fire of it as well. Everything was working. The back burner valve when put in low goes so low that the flame dies off. The middle burner didn't seem to go low enough. So I swapped those valves around.

Grill is back home now, outside... ready for some cooking. So we'll see how it all works.

I've only got a few things remaining to do: Handle, Propane holder, and touch up paint on the hubs for the wheels.

I'll be ordering a new set of flavorizer bars from rcplanebuyer, and I've already ordered a rotisserie from OneGrill. I am pretty excited to try it out!!

 

[Jeff MA]

GreaT job on your restore SClark.

Being it was your Dad's makes it that much more special too,

Jeff

 

[SClark]

Thanks.

Also, if anyone needs 6 durawood slats let me know. I'd be happy to ship them to a grill in need.

 

[TimA]

Hey man, that looks great! Nice job and enjoy!