Early 2000s Genesis Restoration... Need advice for rusted frame cross bar


 

TylerHonschopp

TVWBB Member
Hey everyone,

It's been a while since I've posted anything on here but I am back at it again with another restoration. This one is an early 2000s Genesis Silver B with a sweet Forest Green lid. This restoration is for my uncle who has been asking me to restore one for him after he saw my own personal restoration of a late 90s Genesis 3000.

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Anyhow, I diassembled the entire grill today and everything was going great, the frame didn't appear to have any major issues and so I started sanding it down. I got about an hour into it before I realized.... one of the frame connector bars (circled in red in the pic above) was rusted out underneath the connecting bracket. UGH. Such is life...

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Anyhow, now I'm looking into how I can replace this part, and an easy replacement does not seem to be readily available online. I'm also wondering if these Ace Hardware mounting brackets are original or if they were added by the previous owner somewhere down the line.

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Regardless. I have 2 questions.

1) does anyone happen to have this spare part laying around (long shot but worth asking). The one I need to replace is 23 1/8" long.

and

2) what would be the next best solution to replace this piece? Are there any good aftermarket options out there that I could cut to length?

I'd really prefer to make this frame work and not go the route of another donor if possible.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments!
 

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I would use steel vs aluminum just for cost.

I would use mild steel square tubing. I think home depot and lowes has these in varying lengths for not very much money.

Then you'll need the inserts. I'm sure someone will post a link, or I will in a few mins.
 
Thanks guys! Anyone know if Lowes or Home Depot will cut the tube to length in store?

I have a DeWalt Mitre Saw but I only have the factory blade that came with it which I'm sure is not ideal for cutting steel.
 
Quick update!! I found a piece of 1" square tube at Lowe's for $21. Not too bad...had a friend cut it to size with an angle grinder. Ordered some of those threaded inserts from Amazon too so I won't have to use those unoriginal L brackets.

Today I finished sanding the frame, firebox, manifold, and propane holder.

Next steps are a couple coats of high heat paint, and then the fun part..... reassembly!

I'm gonna coat the insides of the frame with fluid film too to keep the rust at bay.

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Good day everyone!

Time for my final update on this project. I put some serious time into wrapping things up over the last several days. Once the paint process is complete and everything is dry, it's hard to not want to get everything back together as quickly as possible to admire your work and get a good look at the finished product.


I'll pick up where I left off with the painting process. I like to use Krylon High Heat Max paint since I've had good experiences with it before. But it is getting expensive at $10 a can. I used 4 cans in total, probably doing 3-4 coats on all the different parts... Although the high heat paint is pricey it's a small amount to spend for peace of mind that it will be durable and hold up for many many years. Maybe next time I'll just use the high heat on the firebox, but I think at most I'd save $20 or so to go with something else for the frame and other parts.

It was definitely a challenge to paint in the fall. I'm in Cincinnati and the fall weather can be hit or miss in terms of temperature. It was right at 60 degrees when I painted everything, but I had to wait until the late afternoon when the sun had a chance to heat everything up. The metal gets cold at night sitting in my garage. Leaving it out to sit in the sun was my only option. I think I'll invest in a small propane space heater to speed up the process in the future. At least I don't have to worry about sweat droplets ruining the fresh paint this time of year.. just have to be mindful of the wind and the leaves coming down off the trees.


PXL_20251021_195448604.jpg

PXL_20251024_205725103.MP.jpg

After the paint was dry, I like to coat the internal channels of the box frame with fluid film. It's nearly impossible to get all the rust from the interior, and there is plenty, but Fluid Film converts the rust and will add protection for years to come against further corrosion. It's also helpful having the small holes in the frame throughout so you can shove the wand down in there and coat the interior really well.

PXL_20251025_165836520.jpgPXL_20251025_170449103.jpg

Next up was installing the threaded inserts for the new tube that I had to buy from Lowe's since the other was rusted out. Thanks to the guys who suggested those and posted the link. They worked great.


PXL_20251025_174849663.jpg
PXL_20251025_174917713.jpg

I also like to take the extra time to grease hardware to avoid those annoying metal on metal sounds when using the grill...

PXL_20251025_181858471.jpg

After Fluid Film and Grease, it's time to start the reassembly process. First thing that goes on are the wheels so I don't have to lift the frame up anymore whenever I want to move it. The casters were both in good shape so I was able to re-use those.

PXL_20251025_181616494.MP.jpg

I left it as a rolling chassis for a few days and finished everything up yesterday. The rest of the grill goes together pretty quickly and as I said before it's hard to not finish it once you get the fire box mounted back.

I also like to always install new hardware to mount the firebox to the frame. That bolt used there always seems to be too rusted to want to re-use, and replacement hardware costs almost nothing. The trick is to buy several pieces of hardware when you're at the store so you don't have to spend 30 mins finding it the next time you do a rehab project.

PXL_20251027_122209749.jpg

I also ran into a snag when I noticed that the manifold was missing the support bracket or wire hangers like I've seen in the past. This manifold was rounded, so I think it might have had the flatter "S" bracket at some point, but was missing now. Thankfully I'm a parts hoarded and was able to steal a wire hanger from a rusted out manifold that I had. I bended it to remove it from the old manifold and then bended it into a new-ish shape to get it to work for this project. Zip ties could have worked too, but I like to use original parts whenever possible.

PXL_20251027_123342396.jpg

Installing the new flavorizer bars and grates is easy and quite satisfying - signaling the end of the project is near.

PXL_20251027_123955836.jpg

PXL_20251027_124155234.jpg

And here it is in finished form!

This is going to be a surprise for my Uncle and will be delivered to him on Saturday.

I think he is going to be quite pleased! I think it turned out great and this will certainly last him for a lifetime. I tried to go the extra mile at every turn since it's going to someone in the family.

PXL_20251027_205534536.jpg

PXL_20251027_205543137.MP.jpg

PXL_20251027_205624211.MP.jpg

PXL_20251027_210829468.MP.jpg

All things considered, it wasn't the cheapest project. I'll put a breakdown of the expenses below.

The biggest opportunity for savings in the future would be to not spend so much on the original grill, especially when I will be replacing everything anyways. BUT I really love the forest green lids and think it's worth it to spend a premium to get a color you like. I know my Uncle would prefer green over black which is definitely the most common lid color I come across.

Here is the cost breakdown:

-Original grill (FB marketplace) - $100
-New 1" squre tube to replace rusted out piece - $22
-Threaded inserts for new tube - $7
-4 cans of Krylon High Heat Max paint - $44
-Igniter - $11
-Plastic hole fillers for the frame (not required, but I like to use them for protection) - $11
-Cast Iron Grates - $44
-Burners + Flavorizer Bars - $53
-Warming Rack - $22
-Drip Pan + Holder - $20
-Tank Cover - $14
-Propane tank - Free on neighborhood FB page, still had some propane left too!
-Cover - $25

Total: $373 (+ ~12 hours of labor of my own time)

Not bad for a grill that should last for a lifetime... Now it's time to get cooking on it! Just in time for Summer ;)

Finally a bonus picture of my own grill with the new finished project. Love the color combo here. I finished mine during Covid roughly 5 years ago and still holding up great.


PXL_20251027_205852858.jpg

Let me know if I can answer any questions and thanks for reading everyone :)

-Tyler
 
Good day everyone!

Time for my final update on this project. I put some serious time into wrapping things up over the last several days. Once the paint process is complete and everything is dry, it's hard to not want to get everything back together as quickly as possible to admire your work and get a good look at the finished product.


I'll pick up where I left off with the painting process. I like to use Krylon High Heat Max paint since I've had good experiences with it before. But it is getting expensive at $10 a can. I used 4 cans in total, probably doing 3-4 coats on all the different parts... Although the high heat paint is pricey it's a small amount to spend for peace of mind that it will be durable and hold up for many many years. Maybe next time I'll just use the high heat on the firebox, but I think at most I'd save $20 or so to go with something else for the frame and other parts.

It was definitely a challenge to paint in the fall. I'm in Cincinnati and the fall weather can be hit or miss in terms of temperature. It was right at 60 degrees when I painted everything, but I had to wait until the late afternoon when the sun had a chance to heat everything up. The metal gets cold at night sitting in my garage. Leaving it out to sit in the sun was my only option. I think I'll invest in a small propane space heater to speed up the process in the future. At least I don't have to worry about sweat droplets ruining the fresh paint this time of year.. just have to be mindful of the wind and the leaves coming down off the trees.


View attachment 121553

View attachment 121554

After the paint was dry, I like to coat the internal channels of the box frame with fluid film. It's nearly impossible to get all the rust from the interior, and there is plenty, but Fluid Film converts the rust and will add protection for years to come against further corrosion. It's also helpful having the small holes in the frame throughout so you can shove the wand down in there and coat the interior really well.

View attachment 121556View attachment 121557

Next up was installing the threaded inserts for the new tube that I had to buy from Lowe's since the other was rusted out. Thanks to the guys who suggested those and posted the link. They worked great.


View attachment 121558
View attachment 121559

I also like to take the extra time to grease hardware to avoid those annoying metal on metal sounds when using the grill...

View attachment 121560

After Fluid Film and Grease, it's time to start the reassembly process. First thing that goes on are the wheels so I don't have to lift the frame up anymore whenever I want to move it. The casters were both in good shape so I was able to re-use those.

View attachment 121561

I left it as a rolling chassis for a few days and finished everything up yesterday. The rest of the grill goes together pretty quickly and as I said before it's hard to not finish it once you get the fire box mounted back.

I also like to always install new hardware to mount the firebox to the frame. That bolt used there always seems to be too rusted to want to re-use, and replacement hardware costs almost nothing. The trick is to buy several pieces of hardware when you're at the store so you don't have to spend 30 mins finding it the next time you do a rehab project.

View attachment 121562

I also ran into a snag when I noticed that the manifold was missing the support bracket or wire hangers like I've seen in the past. This manifold was rounded, so I think it might have had the flatter "S" bracket at some point, but was missing now. Thankfully I'm a parts hoarded and was able to steal a wire hanger from a rusted out manifold that I had. I bended it to remove it from the old manifold and then bended it into a new-ish shape to get it to work for this project. Zip ties could have worked too, but I like to use original parts whenever possible.

View attachment 121563

Installing the new flavorizer bars and grates is easy and quite satisfying - signaling the end of the project is near.

View attachment 121564

View attachment 121565

And here it is in finished form!

This is going to be a surprise for my Uncle and will be delivered to him on Saturday.

I think he is going to be quite pleased! I think it turned out great and this will certainly last him for a lifetime. I tried to go the extra mile at every turn since it's going to someone in the family.

View attachment 121566

View attachment 121567

View attachment 121568

View attachment 121569

All things considered, it wasn't the cheapest project. I'll put a breakdown of the expenses below.

The biggest opportunity for savings in the future would be to not spend so much on the original grill, especially when I will be replacing everything anyways. BUT I really love the forest green lids and think it's worth it to spend a premium to get a color you like. I know my Uncle would prefer green over black which is definitely the most common lid color I come across.

Here is the cost breakdown:

-Original grill (FB marketplace) - $100
-New 1" squre tube to replace rusted out piece - $22
-Threaded inserts for new tube - $7
-4 cans of Krylon High Heat Max paint - $44
-Igniter - $11
-Plastic hole fillers for the frame (not required, but I like to use them for protection) - $11
-Cast Iron Grates - $44
-Burners + Flavorizer Bars - $53
-Warming Rack - $22
-Drip Pan + Holder - $20
-Tank Cover - $14
-Propane tank - Free on neighborhood FB page, still had some propane left too!
-Cover - $25

Total: $373 (+ ~12 hours of labor of my own time)

Not bad for a grill that should last for a lifetime... Now it's time to get cooking on it! Just in time for Summer ;)

Finally a bonus picture of my own grill with the new finished project. Love the color combo here. I finished mine during Covid roughly 5 years ago and still holding up great.


View attachment 121570

Let me know if I can answer any questions and thanks for reading everyone :)

-Tyler
Thank you Tyler for the great photos and comprehensive write up of your project. Your uncle I am sure will be really happy! It's a first class and thorough restoration! The green lid looks beautiful and I understand that in the long haul, the color lids fade less than the black lids. The Fluid Film application was interesting and will try it on my next project. I also like the cast iron grates. Many prefer stainless steel but once seasoned, I enjoy how cast iron cooks too. Looks awesome!
 
Thank you Tyler for the great photos and comprehensive write up of your project. Your uncle I am sure will be really happy! It's a first class and thorough restoration! The green lid looks beautiful and I understand that in the long haul, the color lids fade less than the black lids. The Fluid Film application was interesting and will try it on my next project. I also like the cast iron grates. Many prefer stainless steel but once seasoned, I enjoy how cast iron cooks too. Looks awesome!
Thank you sir! Much appreciated.

My uncle specifically wanted the cast iron grates after he saw mine. I love the way they hold heat and sear. It seasons so nicely over time too.
 
Looks great Tyler! My only nitpick is the style of tubing connectors you used on the lower cross members. That kind adds length to the tubes, so you are actually pushing the legs out ever so slightly over using the factory style ones. Other than that, fantastic looking grill.
 
Only other point is Fluid Film does not do any "conversion" of rust. Great protectant but not a rust converter such as POR15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Fluid Film is basically an oil coating made from Lanolin. Good stuff none the less. And nice job
 
Only other point is Fluid Film does not do any "conversion" of rust. Great protectant but not a rust converter such as POR15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Fluid Film is basically an oil coating made from Lanolin. Good stuff none the less. And nice job
I thought it was a converter but I guess I was wrong. I really like the stuff though and use it on a lot of my stuff for rust protection. I do know about POR15 but have never used it...I'm wondering if there would be an easy way to apply it like through a spray can and wand that can get into the tight spaces of the frame.

The other idea I've had is to simply powdercoat the frame to remove all traces of rust but that would be pretty costly based on other things I've had powdercoated in the past.
 
Beautiful job, and a nice write-up. Those two look great together!

What wood/stain combo did you do on the red head? That looks quite bold, I am kinda digging it.
Thanks man!

I do remember that the wood was red oak, but having trouble remembering the exact shade of Minwax stain. I want to say it was a Maple shade of some kind.
 
Looks great Tyler! My only nitpick is the style of tubing connectors you used on the lower cross members. That kind adds length to the tubes, so you are actually pushing the legs out ever so slightly over using the factory style ones. Other than that, fantastic looking grill.
Should have known a post like this would bring out the purists and their nitpickyness ;) A good point though and something to keep in mind for next time.
 
I thought it was a converter but I guess I was wrong. I really like the stuff though and use it on a lot of my stuff for rust protection. I do know about POR15 but have never used it...I'm wondering if there would be an easy way to apply it like through a spray can and wand that can get into the tight spaces of the frame.

The other idea I've had is to simply powdercoat the frame to remove all traces of rust but that would be pretty costly based on other things I've had powdercoated in the past.
A great alternative is Eastwood product with the extended nozzle on a hose that sprays in a 360 deg pattern. IMO it's better than POR15. You could clean the frame tubes with a 10 or 12 ga shotgun cleaning kit with brass brushes. Knock the loose stuff out, shoot some brake kleen solvent in there and flush them out. Blow them dry. Then use the Eastwood. After the Eastwood hardens then if wanted follow with the Fluid Film and you'd have a lifetime grill.
 
A great alternative is Eastwood product with the extended nozzle on a hose that sprays in a 360 deg pattern. IMO it's better than POR15. You could clean the frame tubes with a 10 or 12 ga shotgun cleaning kit with brass brushes. Knock the loose stuff out, shoot some brake kleen solvent in there and flush them out. Blow them dry. Then use the Eastwood. After the Eastwood hardens then if wanted follow with the Fluid Film and you'd have a lifetime grill.
How does the Eastwood product compared to Rustoleum "Rust Reformer"?
 
Night and Day. Rustoleum is not even on the same page or even the same universe. There is a reason it's so cheap. Eastwood is expensive but worth every penny
 

 

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