E330 NG and LP manifold and valve side by side comparison


 
Well, I think that's a pretty concrete illustration of why just changing the orifices isn't going to work (properly). Thanks for taking the time to do this Dan!
 
Ed P said:
But yes, it does, in that the LO passage is larger than the L hole that it supplies, and the H passage is smaller than the H hole it supplies. So until the spool is rotated to where the H hole aligns with the inlet, the MED flow is metered by the the area where the passages overlap.
Click to expand...
I think you are right. The smaller hole is for the H temp, and the varying depth of the channel controls the flow of gas.
 
Steve Hoch said:
Well, I think that's a pretty concrete illustration of why just changing the orifices isn't going to work (properly). Thanks for taking the time to do this Dan!
Click to expand...
It all depends on one's expectations. Because the LO orifice (drilled hole) is smaller on the LPG spool, one will never get a LO temp with an NG spool and LPG, and one will never have much of a MED either, even though the passages are the same on both NG and LPG spools. But if all one care about is how fast it gets hot and how hot it gets, does it matter?

Again, because the LO passage is larger than the L hole, the gas is metered by a mix of the L hole and the H passage on MED.
 
Last edited:
Ed P said:
It all depends on one's expectations. Because the LO orifice (drilled hole) is smaller on the LPG spool, one will never get a LO temp with an NG spool and LPG, and one will never have much of a MED either, because the passages are the same between LO and HI. But if all one care about is how fast it gets hot and how hot it gets, does it matter?

On the other end
Click to expand...
You're right that it may not matter to some people. It would matter to me because I do actually adjust my burners anywhere in between absolute low and high depending on what I'm cooking and weather conditions. It must also matter to the countless people that jump on here with their conversion nightmares looking for a solution Lol.
 
Thank
Steve Hoch said:
You're right that it may not matter to some people. It would matter to me because I do actually adjust my burners anywhere in between absolute low and high depending on what I'm cooking and weather conditions. It must also matter to the countless people that jump on here with their conversion nightmares looking for a solution Lol.
Click to expand...
I could not agree more, Steve! Precise temp control is crucial! Probably be ok for quick grilling of dogs and burgers, though.
 
Last edited:
Steve Hoch said:
Well, I think that's a pretty concrete illustration of why just changing the orifices isn't going to work (properly). Thanks for taking the time to do this Dan!
Click to expand...

I agree, and I more or less expected to find a difference. I'll do a single burner test as Ed asked, and then we can quantify how far off it is.

Ed P said:
I could not agree more, Steve! Precise temp control is crucial!
Click to expand...

I agree, however if I need precise temperature control I can use the BGE, the E6 or my 1000 :D

I can easily run 200F to 750F on either the BGE or the E6. I think the low-end on the 1000 is about 225.

I'll see if I can get the steady temp on a single burner test done tonight. I'll have to use a Thermoworks grate probe in addition to my lid gauge.
 
DanHoo said:
I agree, and I more or less expected to find a difference. I'll do a single burner test as Ed asked, and then we can quantify how far off it is.



I agree, however if I need precise temperature control I can use the BGE, the E6 or my 1000 :D

I can easily run 200F to 750F on either the BGE or the E6. I think the low-end on the 1000 is about 225.

I'll see if I can get the steady temp on a single burner test done tonight. I'll have to use a Thermoworks grate probe in addition to my lid gauge.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm mostly interested in establishing a benchmark. From what others have shared, following a simple orifice change, low temp is somewhere in the low to mid-300s but slowly rising. The majority seem to think that high temps achieved quickly are the yardstick by which to measure a successful conversion, but I think they do a disservice to others who expect a well-behaved controllable grill.

For myself, I use the low setting to heat up some pizza dishes for keeping the pizza warm while eating outdoors, and to keep the cooked pizza warm while I prepare another. But that's what I use a low setting for, not necessarily cooking.
 
Last edited:
Ok, installed the unmodified valve from the LP E330 in the center. Left burner has an NG valve with the LP conversion orifice.

Flame on high

20220713_191830.jpg

Flame on low. Pic not so good

20220713_190754.jpg


LP is clearly less flame on low
 
Last edited:
Temp test.

Center burner.

Added a griddle to protect the TW probes from a flame.

Testing unaltered LP valve installed in the center first.

plan is to heat on high until the lid gauge reads 275 F, then turn to low and see where the temp settles.

Ambient temp 88F
20 % humidity
800 ft above sea level
No breeze
 
Last edited:
Ed P said:
Please clarify: This is originally a NG grill that has been converted to LPG by simply changing orifices, yes? Any additional details about the orifices, like were they from a kit, did they come pre-sized, etc?
Click to expand...
First test is with the unaltered valve from the LP E330 installed in the center position on the NG Grill. The LP E330 grill is in pieces in the garage.

I removed one valve from the LP grill to test against the NG valve converted with orifices.

Test grill is my converted NG.

20220713_193050.jpg
 
Last edited:
A lot of work on your behalf, Dan...thanks for taking one for the team!

So Test #1: LP valve with LPG on LO. Normal, controllable, mid-200s temp expected.
 
I will see what my Genesis '98 1200LX does on LO on pizza day (Friday). The burners have a lower BTU rating on the early Gennies (35k BTU vs 48k BTU for our '05 Silver C). What is the burner rating on your E330?
 
Last edited:
Anyone want to guess temperature of the second test. Single burner using the NG valve with the LP conversion orifice?

Temp has fallen to a brisk 87 F.
Still no breeze.
 
Ok. the NG valve with the conversion orifice settled In at around 330F. This was after about 20 mins.

It might have continued to rise while the cookbox heated up more.

20220713_200657.jpg
 
Last edited:
I was going to guess in the 300s, but I thought for sure I was being asked a leading question, that it would be in the 200s.
 
Ed P said:
I was going to guess in the 300s, but I thought for sure I was being asked a leading question, that it would be in the 200s.
Click to expand...
And as far as cooking goes, that seems acceptable. Not so much for warming, though, but still, overall, I think it's acceptable.
 
What is the orifice size on the NG valve converted to LP? NVM, it doesn't matter on LO.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top