Curb Pickup on a Silver C today, BUT!!!


 
Thyde: I thought about that. I am not sure, but I think the replacing the tubing is for the parts of the frame that are already jointed. That top rail is welded on both ends. I think the lower rails are jointed however. I will have to research that a bit more to make sure.
 
THyde said:
Ah, too bad. I was hoping for your sake it would have been grease masquerading as rust, as was the case on my 3000 (now 2000).

There is a post somewhere on here where you can replace the tubing for the frame without welding. They use inserts and that frame is definitely a candidate. Low cost repair too.

Good luck!

Tim
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Yes, that is too bad. I would toss in the idea of checking with some sheet metal shops to see if you can get them to sell you stainless 1 inch square tubing. My friend who owns a shop here got some for me that I used in a Genesis Gold restoration. He welded some in for me to replace the lower legs that hold the casters. They rust out here all the time. He also cut me a replacement crosspiece that goes next to the firebox like the one you need to replace. With the inserts and a stainless bar you would be good for many years:o.
 
Jon: Can you describe how you replace the rail along the firebox with a new piece and the inserts? Do you just cut it flush with the front and back rails and then put the inserts into the ends of the replacement piece and run a bolt through the front and back rails into the ends of the replacement rail that has the inserts in each end?

I actually have one or two of the lower rails that I rescued off a grill that I parted out. I am not sure if the inserts are still good in them, but if they are, I guess I could cut out the rusted rail and just plug and play one of those lower rails in. If the inserts are toast, which i think they were, I can just replace those. :)
 
Bruce said:
Jon: Can you describe how you replace the rail along the firebox with a new piece and the inserts? Do you just cut it flush with the front and back rails and then put the inserts into the ends of the replacement piece and run a bolt through the front and back rails into the ends of the replacement rail that has the inserts in each end?

I actually have one or two of the lower rails that I rescued off a grill that I parted out. I am not sure if the inserts are still good in them, but if they are, I guess I could cut out the rusted rail and just plug and play one of those lower rails in. If the inserts are toast, which i think they were, I can just replace those. :)
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Bruce, take a look at post #1 https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?71...-for-a-revival&p=789644&viewfull=1#post789644

I used a scrap piece of 1.25" tubing to make a new piece. Also pay attention to the embedded hyperlinks from Jeff MA and Xavier G (I like to give credit when credit is due).
 
That’s perfect advice. I do think getting a stainless version of the tubing is worth looking into.

Jon
 
I have to run now, but I will be looking into that other thread when I have time. Also, since this grill will be a rehab and flip, I will probably just drop in one of my donor grill rails if it will fit. Even with poor care, it should last another dozen years and at least as long as the other parts of the grill.

By the way, is there anything that can be done to provide a barrier between the rail and cook box that will alleviate some of the tendency for that area to rust out so easily?
 
Bruce said:
Damn Larry, I thought of that but convinced myself it wasn't necessary. Now you are forcing me to go out and pull the box, or at least that side so I can separate it for the winter. Since you don't live far away, I know you realize it is cold as heck out there now and I hate messing with metal parts when it's cold out. My hands will take 3 hours to warm back up to the point I can move them again.By the way, is there anything that can be done to provide a barrier between the rail and cook box that will alleviate some of the tendency for that area to rust out so easily?
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Ha, you're talking to the wrong guy. As much as I despise winter it's not because of the cold it's the snow and ice. You're very likely to see me outside in shorts and sneakers (just this am taking out the garbage cans for example).
As for the other question I believe if you use a stainless bolt along with Never Seize on it and stainless washers and nut plus install a stainless washer between the grill frame and body it stops the issue. A simple process that would have cost Weber maybe an additional $.15 per grill. Heck the same with the tubes. If they had hot dip galvanized them or even simply done a dip paint job instead of a spray those pieces would last WAY better
 
OK, I have the stainless, bolts, nuts and washers and adding a washer between the rail and cookbox should help a lot? I can do that. I have a lot of those $.15 SS washers. hahahaha
 
Well, I am happy to dig up this thread and restart it. While it wasn't as nice out today as earlier this week/weekend, I found I had a couple hours to kill and decided to drag out out one of my rehab grills and do a little work on it. It was only about 40 degrees, so cleaning with water and painting were not in the works. I looked at my Silver C curb pickup and remembered the rotted out cross member that always rots out due to being bolted to the cookbox.
I cut the rotted out piece off the grill flush on each side with an angle grinder and cut off wheel. Then, I dug out my stash of parts and found a frame part from another grill that had the inserts in the ends to accept a 1/4" bolt. It was about 4" too long, but I just cut off the excess and worked the insert from the extra piece into the shortened end. Then, I drilled 1/4" holes through the front and back of the frame and inserted a couple 1/4" bolts into the new piece. Boom, it fit perfect and is very sturdy...Better than I hoped. Then new cross piece is slightly smaller in width than the regular frame, but unless you really look you can't tell and might think it is made that way any way.

These photos show the frame as I recieved it:

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These show the repairs

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Bruce,

Nice Repair!!!

Looks great to me - a whole new grill. I would follow Larry's advice about treating the stainless bolt and make sure you have a good paint coating on the new piece. Of course, you already know all that and more. You should be good for a long time. ENJOY of FLIP (or enjoy flipping)!

Jon
 
Jon, Yah, I will give it a good shot with my Eastwood rust encapsulator on all the bare metal areas and inside. Then, the Rustoleum paint over the whole frame. And yes, I have a supply of SS bolts for these grills. I am just glad I don't have to find a donor grill to steal the frame from to replace mine. Aside from the caster wheels, the rest of the frame is good.
 
I've been wondering how difficult it would be to make an entire frame from pieces of square angle iron and those inserts .... I wonder if anybody has tried this before?
 
That is an interesting question. However, it is not a project I would care to undertake. If I needed a whole frame that bad, I would look for a donor grill to steal it from. As far as repairs go, it is a great solution though.
 
If you are willing to pony up enough, you can get the square tubes in stainless steel and with the connectors make your own solid stainless frame:cool:!
 
Certainly having it welded would be ideal, but this is a close #2 solution. The frame piece and bolt inserts were what Weber uses on other parts of the grills anyways. All parts that I used were from another donor weber grill.
 
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