Converting on Genesis Silver from NG to Propane


 

Brandon W

New member
Found someone willing to sale me a Genesis Silver that is in really good shape, but is setup for NG. What is the difficulty and cost to convert it to Propane?
 
You will have to find an entire manifold for it. Going from LP to NG is "easier" but once you have things properly done for NG going back to LP is about impossible without a complete manifold swap. Of course you can just swap in new orifices on the valves BUT your low/medium settings will never be right
 
I didn't say it was "hard". It DOES require complete replacement of the manifold depending on the type of valves in the grill. If they are the continuously variable type than no valve replacement or mod is necessary. If they are the "fixed" orifice type (no way to know until you actually pull the valve apart) than after conversion (either way) low and medium settings will not work properly. I have done MANY of these and know very well what I am talking about. Not sure why you always feel you need to be contradictory on this. I have done SUCCESSFUL PROPER conversions on at least 20 grills of various brands though mostly Weber either for myself or for friends and relatives. When I am done they work CORRECTLY not "just work" which in most cases and most brands is all you'll get if you think swapping a couple brass orifices is all you have to do
 
Bruce, perhaps to LMichaels consternation, it has taken me a while to be convinced as well given all the conflicting information out there bout this. Here's a visual that helps. Go here and check out the video on lubing Weber valves. http://virtualwebergasgrill.com/2017/05/cleaning-lubricating-weber-gas-grill-valves/#more-2000

Scroll to the 3:40 mark. You can see the holes in the valve cone for different set points (low - high). If I understand it correctly, the effect of the valve openings depends on which way you are going. If you are trying to go LP to NG, then HIGH will be close to how it should be, but MEDIUM and LOW temps will be under powered and the burners could potentially go out If going from NG to LP, again, HIGH setting will largely be correct, but MEDIUM and LOW will both be hotter than they should be. If you were to take the grates and flavorizer bars off and looked at the lit burners directly, you wouldn't see a much of a difference between HIGH and LOW settings, and almost no difference between MEDIUM and LOW.

On conversions I've done, I never noticed this as I rarely use low or medium. I crank it up, grill on high and if I do use low, it's usually only one burner.
 
I didn't say it was "hard". It DOES require complete replacement of the manifold depending on the type of valves in the grill. If they are the continuously variable type than no valve replacement or mod is necessary. If they are the "fixed" orifice type (no way to know until you actually pull the valve apart) than after conversion (either way) low and medium settings will not work properly. I have done MANY of these and know very well what I am talking about. Not sure why you always feel you need to be contradictory on this. I have done SUCCESSFUL PROPER conversions on at least 20 grills of various brands though mostly Weber either for myself or for friends and relatives. When I am done they work CORRECTLY not "just work" which in most cases and most brands is all you'll get if you think swapping a couple brass orifices is all you have to do

Sorry, Lmichaels. I really didn't mean to dispute your assertions, just lending what little I know about the process. I just saw that video and posted it. I didn't say you were full of BS or anything. I just put it out there for the OP to digest. I trust your experience and advice and probably woudn't bother to make the swap in most instances.
 
Strongly agree with LMichaels here.Having the wrong valves, even if you change the jets, can lead to flame out on the lower settings, but the gas still flows. Not good.

Easy enough to find a 'parts' machine to get a different manifold- that can help if you ever move to a different property- you can easily change it back.

Or put the word out on the forum. Rich & Barb Dahl saved my day when my wife managed to 'kill' a Weber I was restoring(she managed to drive over the manifold).
 
Yah, I agree after this whole discussion that changing out all the relevant parts is best. Maybe the best thing to do is to simply watch for a compatible propane grill to pop up for cheap and just strip the valves, manifold, regulator and hoses. Usually all of those parts are still good, even on a grill where the burners, cooking grates and flavo bars are trashed....people offer them up for free pickup or just $25.00
 

 

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