clay saucer and temp gauge advice


 
D

Dave Ellison

TVWBB Member
Just got a new 22.5-inch WSM and would like some clarification/advice about using a clay saucer rather than water. As I understand this technique, the saucer goes into the water pan, correct? The idea is to create an air pocket between the bottom of the saucer and the top of the pan base. I purchased a 14-inch saucer but it nested totally into the water pan, rather than friction-fitting slightly above the water pan's bottom. Even an 18-inch saucer did the same. It appears that a 20-inch saucer is required, but that's awfully large and heavy -- and I don't know where to get one that big. I guess I could use one of the smaller sizes and put aluminum foil balls underneath to create an air space, but I suspect that some drippings would pass into the water pan since the outer edges of the saucer would not be in contact with the interior of the water pan. Any advice/help will be appreciated.

No. 2 dilemma: I purchased a Maverick ET85 temp gauge with the intention of being able to fit its probe through an eyelet obtained from BBQ Guru. The probe, however, has a metal collar between the probe's non-pointed end and where the wire is attached to it. This metal collar will not allow the probe to be fully inserted into the WSM to the extent that some or all of the wire also is inside. The back end also is too large to fit from inside out. Apparently, this temp gauge is not compatible with the eyelet mod. For the collar to pass through, about a 1/2-inch hole would be required, and that size seems a bit large to be feasible. Will be grateful for any enlightenment.
 
can only address 1 issue: it won't hurt anything to just run the probe cord staight out the side (between lid and middle). That little bit of opening won't cause any temp issues.
 
First question, the clay saucer itself acts as a heat sink, just let it sit in the empty water pan. The saucer will help to even out temp spikes or drops. I would advise using water in the pan while learning the techniques involved.
This is a bit more messy, but much easier to control the temps, particularly for low heat cooks.
Next question, this link points to a mod for installing a larger diameter grommet.
Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
 
your help is much appreciated. what size saucer do you recommend for the 22.5 wsm pan? also, would you still fully fill the water pan with the saucer in it, actually submerging the3 saucer?
 
If you have the 18" saucer, it will do.
It will just sit in the dry water pan.
The reason some use the saucer is to avoid need for water. Some feel that post-water smoke clean up is onerous. I am not among their number.
I have used the saucer approach on some higher heat (275 - 300)cooks, but will use water for longer and lower.
 
Dave,

Have you gotten your two questions figured out yet?

I use a Maverick ET-732, and like you, the crimp from the probes to the leads is too big to fit thru a Guru eyelet. I actually called Guru to let them know this has become an issue.

I used a hollow threaded lamp shaft from Lowes and it works like a champ for less than $5 including locking nuts on both sides.

The clay saucer system works best for me foiled. I foil the pan and the saucer separately. The saucer nests down below the lip of the pan in my setup. Then, I foil the pan and the saucer as they sit nested. I take this outer layer of foil off only when done with the cook. Easy cleanup.
 
Thanks. I also called BBQ guru. 4TheGrill offers a 3/8-inch eyelet for about $10. But I'm going to opt for the lamp shaft. Also, what size is the clay saucer you use for the 22.5 WSM? One other thing: does the bottom of the saucer touch the top of the water pan floor?
 
Dave,

When you drill your hole in the side wall of the WSM, I used blue painter's masking tape on both sides of the metal. I used a center punch for a starting point, then drilled a 3/32 pilot hole to start. From there, I went to the 3/8 bit and had no enamel chipping at all. Perfectly clean drill hole, just went slow and took my time.

I measured the water pan of my 22.5 and found a saucer at Lowe's that was slightly smaller than the pan. Once foiled, it nested down below the rim of the water pan but did not sit down on the bottom of the pan. In my opinion, the saucer needs to sit lower than the lip of the pan to allow the grate to sit naturally as designed. I don't think the air gap between the saucer and pan is critical since the clay is the heat sink which you are looking for to begin with. I may be wrong, but I think the saucer I used may be 16", but again, I am not sure of that.
 
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