Canadian 1100 Redhead - Almost done


 
A

Adam Aurora

New member
Hi All,

I picked up on old redhead about a month ago and I'm in the process of doing my first restoration. So far it has thrown me a few hurdles but I now have it about 85% back together. I just have a few questions some thing I an not still sure on.

1. What is the original size & spacing of the wood slats? The ones on my bbq where re-done previously and am not sure that they are the factory size.

2. What type of finishes are people using on the wood handles? I am a little concerned with the heat.

3. I am reusing the original lid bolts and was wondering if I should bother using stainless flange nuts or just regular steel flange nuts? (I am having a hard finding stainless)

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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What you've done so far looks great. I also don't think that your wood slats are original. You can do whatever you want with those as long as you're happy with the results. Look at pictures of other grills to get ideas. The original slats on my grill are 1 9/16" wide for reference. I would also use spar urethane as a final finish on your wood whether you stain them or paint them.
 
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1 9/16 is what I measured on my old OEM wood too. Used 4 quarters for the upper shelf spacing, and the wood ends up flush with the Z bar. I have a 3000, and the lower shelves indent a bit so when both are next to each other, a gap is maintained. I used a 5/16 nut tipped sideways there. SS 1/4-20 flange nuts are all over Amazon and I also bought #8 x 1/2 stainless truss head screws for the wood/z bar connection.
side-shelf-clamp-jpeg.28475
side-table-jpeg.28476
 
Thanks for the responses, at least now I have an accurate measurement to start with.

Chris - really like the wood you used, it kinda has me second guessing what I want to use. lol
 
Chris Binny said:
1 9/16 is what I measured on my old OEM wood too. Used 4 quarters for the upper shelf spacing, and the wood ends up flush with the Z bar. I have a 3000, and the lower shelves indent a bit so when both are next to each other, a gap is maintained. I used a 5/16 nut tipped sideways there. SS 1/4-20 flange nuts are all over Amazon and I also bought #8 x 1/2 stainless truss head screws for the wood/z bar connection.
side-shelf-clamp-jpeg.28475
side-table-jpeg.28476
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Looks great Chris, is that oak? I used a similar method with a bunch of clamps and straight edges to make my tables. I made spacers out various widths of scrap wood. If I do it again I'll try your method.20210908_213341.jpg
 
It's sapele, some relation to mahogony and should fare well as the finish I used is started to erode. This was during the spring and wood wasn't cheap and the selection was minimal around here. I ripped the 1x4s at a friends house. I got the spacer idea from the forum and just scoured the garage and coin jar for a combination that worked. You can use anything, but doing up the whole assembly in clamps is a must, otherwise everything will walk around on you. This wood was hard enough too where i had to pre-drill every screw hole. I have those self centering drill bits that are used for door hinges, definitely helped too.

The RCP z-bars are great. I could have used the originals, but they were getting thin and rather pitted. Would have been more body work than I wanted to clean them up.
 
Chris Binny said:
It's sapele, some relation to mahogony and should fare well as the finish I used is started to erode. This was during the spring and wood wasn't cheap and the selection was minimal around here. I ripped the 1x4s at a friends house. I got the spacer idea from the forum and just scoured the garage and coin jar for a combination that worked. You can use anything, but doing up the whole assembly in clamps is a must, otherwise everything will walk around on you. This wood was hard enough too where i had to pre-drill every screw hole. I have those self centering drill bits that are used for door hinges, definitely helped too.

The RCP z-bars are great. I could have used the originals, but they were getting thin and rather pitted. Would have been more body work than I wanted to clean them up.
Click to expand...
Yep, your experience pretty much mirrors mine right down to pre drilling the holes with a self centering bit.
 
Chris Binny said:
It's sapele, some relation to mahogony and should fare well as the finish I used is started to erode. This was during the spring and wood wasn't cheap and the selection was minimal around here. I ripped the 1x4s at a friends house. I got the spacer idea from the forum and just scoured the garage and coin jar for a combination that worked. You can use anything, but doing up the whole assembly in clamps is a must, otherwise everything will walk around on you. This wood was hard enough too where i had to pre-drill every screw hole. I have those self centering drill bits that are used for door hinges, definitely helped too.

The RCP z-bars are great. I could have used the originals, but they were getting thin and rather pitted. Would have been more body work than I wanted to clean them up.
Click to expand...
Chris, what finish did you use on the sapele?
 
Adam Aurora said:
Chris, what finish did you use on the sapele?
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Used this stuff OSMO UV oil that you can search for on this site. I found it somewhat frustrating to apply and only did one coat as a result. Initially water beaded up on the wood but also had the cover off the grill more than on this summer and some of the wood is starting to gray now. Before the cold sets in, I'm going to do a reapplication and see what happens.
 
Chris Binny said:
Used this stuff OSMO UV oil that you can search for on this site. I found it somewhat frustrating to apply and only did one coat as a result.
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Chris, I'd be interested in hearing more about your experience with OSMO UV. Why was it frustrating to apply?
 
Ed Pinnell said:
Chris, I'd be interested in hearing more about your experience with OSMO UV. Why was it frustrating to apply?
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That's probably not the best product for this application. Osmo uv oil is not recommended for horizontal surfaces, such as decks, or Chris's work table. The water pools on it and wears the finish off very quickly.
 
Steve Hoch said:
That's probably not the best product for this application. Osmo uv oil is not recommended for horizontal surfaces, such as decks, or Chris's work table. The water pools on it and wears the finish off very quickly.
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Correct, i knew about the horizontal. Thats part of it. I just found it difficult to apply. Went on thick, never settled right. if put on and wiped off, never seemed to get enough of a coat. i just don't like it.

thoughts are as the finish fades and wood greys, i'll have a solid grey wood slat. sapele was built for the outside.
 
Chris Binny said:
Correct, i knew about the horizontal. Thats part of it. I just found it difficult to apply. Went on thick, never settled right. if put on and wiped off, never seemed to get enough of a coat. i just don't like it.

thoughts are as the finish fades and wood greys, i'll have a solid grey wood slat. sapele was built for the outside.
Click to expand...
Yep, sapele is good stuff. I was thinking of using it myself.
 
Has anyone had any issues with Krylon High Heat Paint? Last night I used the BBQ for the first time and noticed that the paint was starting to bubble on the cook box. I did put a few heat cycles on it before hand, not sure what went wrong.
 
I used krylon high heat this spring on my silver B firebox. This is my personal grill and I've not had any issues.
 
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