Building weather resistant heatermeter need some help on alternative parts .. please


 
A

anthony.palumbo

TVWBB Member
this is the dc power jack i am looking to get .....dc jack

I would like to get probe jacks that are similar and am thinking about using a 2.5 mm power jack for the blower.

here is kinda what i am looking to do based on what another board member did

20130205_095810_zpsb984fde9.jpg

20130205_095834_zps65acf5a5.jpg

which can be found in this post


Any help would be great... i need parts that have the nut on them so that i can attach to the side like dale did. ...

I also was thinking about putting all connectors on the bottom and putting feet in the corner of the container so that the wires are on the bottom and when weather his it the water just runs off and nothing can get wet
 
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That's quite a rig you got going there....
I know a lot of people are after a water proof case design. My idea was not to make the case itself waterproof, but to make a mount or shell that the case would slide into that is waterproof. This shell could be permanently mounted out by your smoker, when you're ready to smoke (or when you suspect rain) just slide your HM (in the 3D printed case) up into the shell and you are water proof. The shell would be clear on the front (plexiglass) which would be sealed to the back with silicone, the back could be printed on a 3D printer. The whole shell would be waterproof but the bottom would remain open for the HM to slide in/out of, and for your leads to come and go. I think that would be a nice efficient way to make a versatile waterproof design. So far the guys with the 3D printers haven't commented on the idea...
 
RalphTrimble said:
That's quite a rig you got going there....
I know a lot of people are after a water proof case design. My idea was not to make the case itself waterproof, but to make a mount or shell that the case would slide into that is waterproof. This shell could be permanently mounted out by your smoker, when you're ready to smoke (or when you suspect rain) just slide your HM (in the 3D printed case) up into the shell and you are water proof. The shell would be clear on the front (plexiglass) which would be sealed to the back with silicone, the back could be printed on a 3D printer. The whole shell would be waterproof but the bottom would remain open for the HM to slide in/out of, and for your leads to come and go. I think that would be a nice efficient way to make a versatile waterproof design. So far the guys with the 3D printers haven't commented on the idea...
Click to expand...

thats actually dale's rig i used his pictures from another post so that people would get my general idea. I have a 4 line display and dont plan on using the botton to much so it works for me. plus i can take and use this anywhere. for an extra few bucks i could even run it off batteries
 
The thing about the HM that makes a waterproof case hard to accomplish is all of the input/outputs. Even if you do not expose the HDMI, USB and LAN, you still have all the probe jacks. If you install all 4 probe jacks you need to have something plugged into all 4 probe jacks otherwise you have a leak right there. So you either have to install only the amount of probe jacks you expect to use, and always populate all the jacks, or plug the holes on the jacks when not in use. I guess that's not the end of the world, but I think the standard case which gives access to all the I/O placed inside another waterproof case would be the way to go. This gives you all the freedom to access all the I/O, and allows you to run the HM in the smaller more convenient case on a dry day, but gives you protection from the rain at a moments notice buy pushing the HM up into the waterproof shell. I think access to the button could be accomplished as well using some sort of rubber siliconed over a hole in the plexiglass face.
 
RalphTrimble said:
The thing about the HM that makes a waterproof case hard to accomplish is all of the input/outputs. Even if you do not expose the HDMI, USB and LAN, you still have all the probe jacks. If you install all 4 probe jacks you need to have something plugged into all 4 probe jacks otherwise you have a leak right there. So you either have to install only the amount of probe jacks you expect to use, and always populate all the jacks, or plug the holes on the jacks when not in use. I guess that's not the end of the world, but I think the standard case which gives access to all the I/O placed inside another waterproof case would be the way to go. This gives you all the freedom to access all the I/O, and allows you to run the HM in the smaller more convenient case on a dry day, but gives you protection from the rain at a moments notice buy pushing the HM up into the waterproof shell. I think access to the button could be accomplished as well using some sort of rubber siliconed over a hole in the plexiglass face.
Click to expand...

button can be done with a bubble button... and my case will have all the jacks at the absolute bottom and i will be putting feet on the case. which will raise it up off the jacks and at the same time any water should run off... now if its sitting in a puddle i cant help ya there. but for the average cook out it should hold up just fine.
 
I built something similar to the picture in the first post but I put the fan and everything in the box. I cut a piece of acrylic for the screen and buttons and used panel mount jacks. when I close the door everything is water resistant the only hole is for the air to come out and its on the bottom. I got all my jacks at radio shack. I'll post a pic when I get home.
 
so i didnt realize how compact that box was... btw you can find them at walmart. After playing with it a bit i have decided to use a quart bag over the top and just copy dales for the most part. a plastic bag should avoid any rain run off
 
I do my dad has it right now I will have him take pics and send it over there are a few things I still need to finish but I duplicated your design with a few variations... I am building another and making improvement
 
I like the idea of putting a built heatermeter into a waterproof box. For the inputs you could drill holes in the box and pass the wires through using rubber grommets slit down one side. Bonus if these passthroughs are on the side or bottom to shield them from direct weather.
 
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