Brisket Flavor


 
T

Tom Chips

TVWBB All-Star
After a few years now, I finally feel comfortable firing up a brisket, confident that I will find the results palatable. Now I find the more I think of it, how easily the taste of one brisket varies so differently from the next. And I'm not speaking of spice, seasoning or smoke, since I have essentially always used a mix of apple and oak for smoke, a very similar spice rub, and only once dabbled in using FAB.

What I am reflecting on tonight, after having some diced up point from my latest cook, is that the unfortunate fact that this brisket, unlike some of the others I have made, really lacks a beefy flavor. I gave up even eating the small bowl I had prepared half way through, because all I could taste was my spice rub and bark, along with a slight smoke. The way I look at it, those things should only serve to underline the flavor of the meat itself. But honestly, in this cook ( mind you this one was a prime grade) there just isn't any flavor to it. I might as well have smoked tofu, or styrofoam.

Does anyone else notice that the pure flavor of their beef is lacking sometimes, or varies from cook to cook, despite same prep and methods?

My thoughts always seemed to assume that the flavor was originating with the meat fibers themselves, with the lip-smacking texture coming by way of the rendered connective tissue. With some good fat rounding out both a bit of flavor and texture, we're supposed to end up with delicious.
 
Tom, I agree and I believe that it is the meat itself rather than cooking method, rubs, etc. I have recently converted to pasture raised, all organic beef I can get at my local Farmers Market (h/t to Kevin K) and it is raised at local farms. The beef is very lean and not as tender as others, but the flavor is incredible...deep beefy flavor. It is more expensive, but, hey , I am worth it!
 
Thats the same story as mine that I just cooked. It was a Niman Ranch Prime! Certainly not some inferior cow there. But it wasn't just specific to this one cook, its the trend in general. Some have a great depth of beefy flavor, some have little.
 
Tom, in thinking about your question, the variable that you can control that you are not accounting for (I’m assuming) is the age of the brisket. I usually don’t age my briskets, however I did for a comp (approximately 2 weeks after purchase) and did reasonably well with it (5th). I got the idea from listening to the bbq central’s brisket forum where guys like Minion and Lampey talked about ageing a brisket for anywhere from 35-50 days from the pack date. I can’t say definitively if it helps, so I did some quick research:

Harold McGee recommends that beef be aged from 10-21 days. He believes that enzymes present in the meat slowly break down the meat proteins, yielding free amino acids. This contributes to the flavor. He mentions the data is somewhat contradictory as far as improving the texture (breaking down muscle fiber).

Minion (again from the bbq central pod cast) claims that aging also alters the way a brisket will cook (not confirmed by McGee).

How does this information go along with what I know? Everybody loves free amino acids, especially glutamate. It is why they are hidden (or not so) in lots of processed foods as MSG, hydrolyzed yeast extract and hydrolyzed soy protein. It sounds to me that aging creates a natural MSG effect by enzymatic action and should result in increasing the beefy flavor of briskets.

What I liked about this idea is that it is a variable we can control after purchase. Hopefully somebody has or will test this idea to see if aging does improve flavor of a brisket.
 
J,

From what I understand, wet ageing will only effect tenderness of the brisket. In order to improve flavor, one needs to dry age, and that is very difficult to do at home.
 
Pat, is this personal experience? I haven't had any direct knowledge of this but Harold McGee is highly respected in the field of food science and his info directly contradicts what you said.
 
I believe that it will break down and also flavor brisket by wet aging. I've done a lot of side by side taste tests and those are the result that I found...
 
I won't argue as I've only cooked a wet aged brisked a few times. My point was more that dry aging has a more significant effect on flavor than wet aging.

That said, it's easy to do and worthwhile.

Scottie, invite me over next time you're doing test briskets
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Looking back, I had to jump back and delete the reply I just posted here, cause I mixed up for a minute whether I aged either of these two primes. No, I did not age either, and they were prepared right after thawing.

I did age one just before these cooks, but it was a NRP and it had flavor five times better than either of these primes.

The major variables in both of these primes though were, the first one was cooked on my dads Stumps clone, with almond wood, and his rub. The second one was done here at my place using my WSM and my traditional method, same wood, rub etc.

The one from my dads didn't have a great beefy taste either, but it did have everything else turn out good.

I'm off to go pick up two similar size NRP's. They will chill in the fridge for at least 4 weeks where I will prepare both in the exact same manner, with the exception of one will get a dose of FAB, just for kicks and to see how it turns out. These probably wont be cooked till just before Christmas.
 
Dry aging has far more significance in terms of flavor than wet aging--and I say this from substantial experience with both aged (wet and dry) and non-aged and practically non-aged beef; science backs it up as well (and I do not think this contradicts McGee either).

Enzymatic activity is responsible for tenderizing beef during aging. Though free aminos can contribute to flavor the contribution isn't what I would call very remarkable. There, yes, but not especially noteworthy, imo (flavor and flavor intensity is subjective, however). It's another story with dry aged beef. In this case, moisture loss concentrates flavor and the flavor boost is not insubstantial.

In my experience, how the beef was fed and finished is much more indicative of likely flavor at various points of possible cooking, i.e., soon after slaughter, somewhat wet aged, substantially wet aged, or dry aged.

Wet aging for tenderness is something worth doing if one has the wherewithal. Flavor can be boosted by simply applying a finishing 'sauce' (I use defatted meat juices captured from the foil, seasoning adjusted, slightly emulsified for better cling) painted on the slices as I slice. Imo, it is easier, quicker and gives better results than injecting; the mouth/brain doesn't know the difference anyway.
 
Reading this thread with great interest, after a mediocre brisket this week.

My question is, how do you wet-age? Just leave it in fridge in original packaging? You can do this for weeks without "danger"? Thanks.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">how do you wet-age? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, it helps to know when the meat was packed. That can be difficult to determine if you are not buying it by the case. Exception of course if you have a knowledgeable butcher. Where I shop (Sam's) they still call Packers "Choice cuts" long story...

Anyways, the brisket needs to be in the original cryovac. Styrofoam tray with plastic wrap from the supermarket won't cut it.

Assuming you have meat in the original cryo, plop it in a cold fridge 34-38 degrees, for a few weeks. If you are using the fridge that you, the wife and the kids open 20 times a day, you may have problems. I use a keg fridge that rarely gets opened.
 
I re-read McGee and I was a little confused originally but I'm clear now.

the enzyme activity does result in flavor enhancement, but its questionable whether its the responsible factor for the increase in tenderness. Aging DOES increase tenderness, he was just unsure if the increase in tenderness was solely the result of enzymes.

I understood dry aging enhances flavor by reducing moisture. I doubt this would be a wise strategy for lean briskets, besides the inherent difficulties with dry aging at home.

I have heard of a preference for grain fed cows vs grass fed. I'm not sure if it was in reference to flavor or fat content. But it would agree with the idea that beef will vary with diet.

Dang, I was really hoping wet aging would loosen up all the glutamates in my beef. I guess if that were the case then FAB wouldn't be as popular as it is.

Pat, you're correct. McGee states 34-38 for 10-21 days. I've heard some pro's go up to 50, but a friend had one go bad before then (don't know his temp).
 
There are certainly many that use FAB. There are also those who find its use distorting to the flavor of beef. I'm in that camp. From what I hear, a judge that has developed enough of a taste repertoire to distinguish it dislike it and those that don't know the difference--well, don't know the difference. But I have been recently thinking about a very similar subject matter and wonder if it might be the diet of the taster in question, what he or she eats (or avoids eating) on a day-to-day basis that more fully informs that individual's repertoire--more than the variety of foods or cuisines they have experienced.

I am not sure that enzyme activity vis-à-vis tenderness is very open to question. Though it certainly might not be the sole criterion it is a very well established causative factor.
 
I will add, that the one brisket I did wet age did have a more pronounced livery flavor. But its overall flavor profile was in my opinion more enhanced by the addition of FAB, not sitting in a cryovac. To drag out the debate of wether or not wet aging creates tenderness isn't what I'm looking into at this point. I personally believe there are too many other factors weighing in on individual cooks and methods.
 
so Tom, what are we left with?

FAB is gross.

Wet aging enhances flavor only minimally.

What the cow's diet was is difficult to determine point of sale.

guess we need to start raising our own cows.
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on a more serious note, has anybody tried enhancing beefyness with a more natural injection? I haven't progress to the point where I'm ready to add something to my technique but its always in the back of my mind to try an injection of stock, roast beef jus, or in combo with something like ****akes or other umami sources (miso...dashi?).
 
FAB isn't necessarily gross--but I do think it's over-used in terms of proportion. It doesn't help that Ames's quantity recommendation is too high by a factor of 2 or 3, ime. It seems the recommendations were based more on the phosphates--though I would not discount the possibility that diet--mine--plays a significant role in my aversion (see comments above).

All other factors being equal, I don't find wet aging to be hugely significant but all factors are rarely equal. Still, I find it hard to believe that typical tasters would be able to tell the difference--flavorwise--between a brisket that was wet aged for a significantly longer period than another considering how adulterated both become with the addition of rubs, sauces and/or injections.

Supermarket beef comes from feedlots that feed a not-so-surprisingly similar diet. For beef with atypical flavor characteristics you need atypical sources. They're out there.

Yes, to your question. I've used ground porcinis and typical homemade beef stock (which includes tomato components) and find the results viable. Though the need to inject the mix never proved itself to me (I abandoned injection as superfluous after a few experiments) one certainly can. (I like injections for items that are not going to be sliced or pulled and immediately served, things like loin, butt and turkey breast cooked then chilled for later serving, especially for sandwich meats.)

Though I simply emulsify slightly to make paintable mixtures to use during slicing (or in the case of PP, for use during pulling), for injections one can either do the same thing or, if preferred, incorporate gums and/or phosphates, making a 'cleaner' version of FAB, one without all the excess yeasty notes.
 
I like to think that if you BBQ'd me I'd taste different than Tom, or Kevin, Jamie, Pat or J. ... that everyone would taste a little different than everyone else
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Critters are a lot more complex than even say a potato. Aside from the genetics, how did changing weather and differing soil conditions affect the growth development and taste of two potatoes from the same seed raised 100 miles apart. What about a russet potato and a red potato grown right next to one another?

It must be much more so with a steer. Not only what breed they are, what they ate, when they ate it, activity level, how much sun did they get, hormone and other injections, sickness/health, stress, watered from a fresh cold stream vs sulfury well water, the blue salt lick or the red one .... all of this playing out during the already dynamic growth period.

That's all prior to slaughter, butchering, distribution, prep and cooking. I think that's why the same cut of meat can seem so different.

It's also why I really try to savor a fine chunk of meat, I may never get one exactly like that again.
 
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