Brand New Damper Design - "The Micro Damper"


 
Just a heads up, looks like the wiring diagram here is not entirely correct. Specifically the female TRRS wiring, I ended up needing to do the following (using pin numbers on diagram)

1. Red Servo (5v, RJ45 pin 3, white-green)
2. Red Fan (12v, RJ45 pin 5, white-blue
3. Orange Servo (signal, RJ45 pin 6, green)
4. Black Fan/Brown Server (Gnd, RJ45 pin 4, blue)

I verified the male wiring connection and everything lined up so maybe a difference in the part supplier for the female?
 
Chris_H said:
Just a heads up, looks like the wiring diagram here is not entirely correct. Specifically the female TRRS wiring, I ended up needing to do the following (using pin numbers on diagram)

1. Red Servo (5v, RJ45 pin 3, white-green)
2. Red Fan (12v, RJ45 pin 5, white-blue
3. Orange Servo (signal, RJ45 pin 6, green)
4. Black Fan/Brown Server (Gnd, RJ45 pin 4, blue)

I verified the male wiring connection and everything lined up so maybe a difference in the part supplier for the female?
Click to expand...

Did you verify which cable type you have? I have a massive migraine, so tracking down what's wrong is not going to happen tonight. I've wired many MicroDampers following those instructions without fail though.
 
Yeah, Type B cable for sure. I wired the male end exactly as described in the doc so it really seems like the pinout on the female for my parts doesn't line up.

Not a big deal for me, just thought I'd post in case somebody else runs into it. Really satisfied with my purchase :)
 
Chris_H said:
1. Red Servo (5v, RJ45 pin 3, white-green)
2. Red Fan (12v, RJ45 pin 5, white-blue
3. Orange Servo (signal, RJ45 pin 6, green)
4. Black Fan/Brown Server (Gnd, RJ45 pin 4, blue)
Click to expand...


It looks like you wired it exactly I how I explain (well I'm inferring because you mention pin 5 and 6 etc which don't exist). Don't know what your issue was...
 
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For those having problems soldering the male TRRS connector wiring you may want to look into this.
71wZ-2QxTmL._SL1192__zpsovkkozn1.jpg


3.5mm (1/8") Stereo TRRS Male Jack to AV 4-Screw Terminal Block Balun Connectors, PL-CN16-2
 
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Yeah it's too bad a female RJ45 jack takes up about a 1/4 of the volume of a MicroDamper. The TRRS jack is a good solution, nice and easy to use too. There's a reason temperature probes use a very similar jack
 
SteveCK said:
Perhaps I should do a video on the assembly. I don't think it's very difficult, but perhaps it'll help some of you
Click to expand...

This is a great idea. Personally, I didn't have any trouble with the wiring itself. Its the insulation that is near impossible and has caused headaches. Attempting to solder around the shrink wrap on the male TRRS is a fools errand, if your attempting to wrap each pole individually. I'd love to see it done. I ended up cutting small strips of electrical tape. and wrapping each pole under a magnifying glass. Not easy. I found that if not doing this, every time the cord was touched or bent, it through a short and rebooted my HeaterMeter.
 
Bill Herbert said:
Attempting to solder around the shrink wrap on the male TRRS is a fools errand, if your attempting to wrap each pole individually.
Click to expand...

I haven't had any problems with this. Are you using an appropriately sized soldering tip? You should use the same one that should be used to solder the HeaterMeter; one that comes to a sharp tip.

I'll have to find a tripod and everything, I'm not setup for taking youtube videos - never made one before. I will get a video done eventually though!
 
SteveCK said:
I'll have to find a tripod and everything, I'm not setup for taking youtube videos - never made one before. I will get a video done eventually though!
Click to expand...
You and me both! Every time I put together a 4.3 case I think about producing a video on the tricks to put it together easily, yet it has still not happened. I even took some test footage to play with in Premiere Elements and thought "well this is going to take all day!" and gave up. I hope you can muster more ambition than I can.
 
If you are looking for a dead simple solution for attaching your Microdamper to a Kamado I made this after one trip to the hardware store. It is press fit only and seems to work. If I had more time I may have fabbed a plate; however, it being Mother's day weekend I decided that discretion is still the better part of valor.

If I like it after a few cooks I may sweat the pipe; however, I also like the fact that I don't need to unscrew the microdamper in order to remove it.

Parts:
  1. BBQ Guru "Ceramic Adapter" (Part #: B800-1001-120)
  2. 1.25" to 1" copper reducer
  3. Length of 1" pipe cut to fit
  4. 1" threaded adapter

The only tool that you will need is a pipe cutter or hack saw unless your hardware store is willing to cut it for you.

Order of assembly
BBQ GURU Adapter-->1.25" to 1" reducer-->1" pipe-->1" threaded nipple


If you use a rubber mallet or a soft tap the 1 1/4" reducer will press nicely onto the BBQ guru adapter. If you feel like you aren't happy with the seal sweat the 1" threaded piece to the reducer or use metallic ducting tape to seal.

This fits my Kamado Joe Big Joe perfectly. I'll just have to remember not to hit it with my leg...


This is a picture of the parts before they were pressed together. The 1" section of cut pipe should fit so that you are able to press both pieces together without a gap:

 
Looks good. I didn't know a 1.25" fitting would fit over the BBQ Guru adapter, that's really good to know, because anything that fits inside reduces the diameter further than I recommend.

One thing to note, it's probably not a good idea to sweat the pipes together without checking the MSDS on your solder. Using high temp RTV would be another option that's known to be safe. Plus the adapters/pipe nipples don't get nearly as hot as some people think. Next time I do a cook I'll use my infrared thermometer to get a measurement, but I'd bet its somewhere around or below. 200*F
 
Thanks Steve--a 1 1/4" reducing male threaded adapter would be ideal...

Here is a shot down the bore (it is unloaded, safety engaged and not pointed directly at me):
 
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Kiaikai B said:
If you are looking for a dead simple solution for attaching your Microdamper to a Kamado I made this after one trip to the hardware store. It is press fit only and seems to work. If I had more time I may have fabbed a plate; however, it being Mother's day weekend I decided that discretion is still the better part of valor.

If I like it after a few cooks I may sweat the pipe; however, I also like the fact that I don't need to unscrew the microdamper in order to remove it.

Parts:

Or you could go with this if you're doing a slip fit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020478
  1. BBQ Guru "Ceramic Adapter" (Part #: B800-1001-120)
  2. 1.25" to 1" copper reducer
  3. Length of 1" pipe cut to fit
  4. 1" threaded adapter

The only tool that you will need is a pipe cutter or hack saw unless your hardware store is willing to cut it for you.

Order of assembly
BBQ GURU Adapter-->1.25" to 1" reducer-->1" pipe-->1" threaded nipple


If you use a rubber mallet or a soft tap the 1 1/4" reducer will press nicely onto the BBQ guru adapter. If you feel like you aren't happy with the seal sweat the 1" threaded piece to the reducer or use metallic ducting tape to seal.

This fits my Kamado Joe Big Joe perfectly. I'll just have to remember not to hit it with my leg...


This is a picture of the parts before they were pressed together. The 1" section of cut pipe should fit so that you are able to press both pieces together without a gap:

Click to expand...


Or you could go with this if you're doing a slip fit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020478
 
Hi, I've looked through this thread but this doesn't seem to have been asked previously…

I'm in the UK where NPT thread, or even adapters seems to be non-existent. Any suggestions on how to go about mounting the MicroDamper to my WSM?
 
PeteW said:
Hi, I've looked through this thread but this doesn't seem to have been asked previously…

I'm in the UK where NPT thread, or even adapters seems to be non-existent. Any suggestions on how to go about mounting the MicroDamper to my WSM?
Click to expand...

There are quite a few MicroDampers in the UK, hopefully someone will chime in because I've never been asked about this - I've always assumed people have been able to source it somewhere because nobody has ever asked. If you want I can send you some parts to get it done, shoot me an email
 
SteveCK said:
Looks good. I didn't know a 1.25" fitting would fit over the BBQ Guru adapter, that's really good to know, because anything that fits inside reduces the diameter further than I recommend.

One thing to note, it's probably not a good idea to sweat the pipes together without checking the MSDS on your solder. Using high temp RTV would be another option that's known to be safe. Plus the adapters/pipe nipples don't get nearly as hot as some people think. Next time I do a cook I'll use my infrared thermometer to get a measurement, but I'd bet its somewhere around or below. 200*F
Click to expand...

My damper is attached directly to the side of my PBC. By directly, I mean it's literally silicone glued to the side with nothing standing it off. The alumide that I had it printed from claims "heatproof to 172* F". It's not deformed at all. I don't know what the actual melting point is though.

Last time I ran the pit, I let her rip with the damper at 100% and the top off for a bit. When I put the top back on, there was literally flames shooting backwards out of the damper for 20-30 seconds until I got it closed. Still fine.
 
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