Bought a Genesis 1000 - having extreme difficulty with the regulator and hose.


 
D

Dave Glasgal

TVWBB Member
Hi all,

New Weber owner here, and looking forward to hopefully firing up my "new" 90's-era grill soon. After a lot of research and a lot of recommendations, I decided to go the Genesis route, and bit on a Craigslist find nearby (it's a 1000 or 1100; I'm not exactly sure). I tested it out at their place, and it fired right up and seemed to work just fine. Got it home, reconnected the tank, and...whoa, major gas leak. The white plastic cap on the regulator is now loose and leaking (probably damaged when I had to hit the brakes on the way home - thanks guy who swerved into my lane).

Well, I think I found the replacement part I need on Weber's website, but...I can't get the hose off the grill. I've already started stripping down the hex connection at the grill end of the hose, so before I do any more damage and potentially screw myself into having to replace the whole manifold, can I get any advice on how to get that hose off? I've hit it three times with PB Blaster, which has never failed me in the past. But it just will not budge; not one tiny fraction of a turn. Very, very grateful for any advice you can offer. Thanks!
 
Are you talking about the 1/8 NPT fitting that actually goes into the manifold or the 3/8 flare connection that connects onto the hose it self
 
You should be able to replace the hose for under $10. Just unscrew it from the grill at the 3/8" flare connection and put the new one on.

20171103 Weber Grill Manifold with two exta ports.JPG
 
I'm talking about this connection here, located roughly underneath the ignition switch. (From what I can tell, this is the part I need to order from Weber, so it seems like this is where I need to disconnect it.)

thumbnail_IMG_6135 - Copy.jpg
 
To be clear...am I supposed to be disconnecting the hose from the square-ish piece, or is that whole thing supposed to come out? Either way, I'm at a total loss for how to remove them :/ (Previous owner said he hadn't even used the grill in six years, to give you an idea of how long it's been sitting dormant in the wildly fluctuating weather of western NY)
 
connect the part that goes into the squarish piece. Then use the 1/8" to 3/8" adpated I linked to above. The 1/8" npt male end will go in the squarish part and the hose will connect to the other 3/8" flare connector. You will want to use pipe dope on the 1/8" NPT side, but not the flare side.

connector.jpg
 
You could take that elbow connector out as well and the port in the manifold is 1/8" NPT as well. you could just connect that adapter right there, but then the hose would stick straight down and that is not optimal. The elbow allows it to go off to the side.
 
Okay, that makes sense. Is that connection (the one the arrow is pointing to) reverse threaded? Before I start looking for bigger tools with more torque to try to get that stupid thing disconnected, I want to make sure I'm going the right way (I gave it a little muscle in both directions, since the normal loosening motion didn't make it budge a millimetre...but I don't want to do more harm than good from here out). Since I don't see anything in that adapter link referring to different threading, I'm guessing left hand turning is supposed to be loosening it up...
 
Normal threads. You might just have to get it with a vice grips if it all chewed up. Don't worry about the hose, because you are going to replace it anyway.
 
Yeah, I planned on cutting the hose off before I do much more - it's just in the way at this point. I'll be tackling this in the harsh light of day tomorrow and will report back. Thanks again for the links; I can't imagine I would have found that adapter (or even realized I'd needed it) otherwise!
 
Dave:
It you want to try saving the elbow, I would suggest using a large adjustable wrench almost tight on the elbow with as much of the jaws on the brass fitting perpendicular to where it threads into the manifold. You want to use the wrench to hold the elbow steady so it doesn't snap off in the manifold. Then use the vice grips on the hose fitting (after you cut the hose off) and try to bring the vice grips towards the front of the grill. You might have to give it a good tug or even hit the vice grips with a hammer to break it free. Just be sure to hold the adjustable wrench steady so it doesn't break the fitting in the manifold. Good luck.
 
Dan Leighton said:
Dave:
It you want to try saving the elbow, I would suggest using a large adjustable wrench almost tight on the elbow with as much of the jaws on the brass fitting perpendicular to where it threads into the manifold. You want to use the wrench to hold the elbow steady so it doesn't snap off in the manifold. Then use the vice grips on the hose fitting (after you cut the hose off) and try to bring the vice grips towards the front of the grill. You might have to give it a good tug or even hit the vice grips with a hammer to break it free. Just be sure to hold the adjustable wrench steady so it doesn't break the fitting in the manifold. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Any advice on how to get the hose - and the ring - off? The hose itself is posing a challenge, and what I'm realizing is that there is just NO way that I'll even dream of getting it unscrewed as long as that collar is still on, because there isn't a tool in the world that's small enough to actually get around that connector and get a good grip (closest I can get is needle nose, but they're way too weak; they just spin around it).

Also, how on earth do you get the ignition out of here? I feel like I'm going to rip the black cable right out, but I can't get the assembly out from underneath the switch. And if I DO end up breaking it, I'll have to get it out anyway, so...I'd rather learn now instead of having to replace yet another part (already needs new bars and new wood too...this project is getting way out of budget).

edit: still no luck with the ignition, but I managed to hack off the hose (took a combination of sawing and some serious snips). However, I managed to at least wrestle the entire angled adapter free from the manifold. As a testament to just how stuck the hose is, I put it in a bench vise and tried to free it with vice grips, pipe wrenches, you name it...the hose collar just spins and spins and spins. I am at a total loss for how to salvage this thing. I'd really like to free it up so I can put the angle adapter back and set the grill up the way it's intended, but if I can at least make the grill functional with a straight adapter, I guess I may have to forfeit and go that way.
 
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Save yourself a lot of headache. Remove the 90 deg angle fitting. Buy a new one, than get the other pieces Bruce told you to. Easy peezy shouldn't take more than 5 minutes
 
The igniter worked just fine when I tested it out (one click and it was lit), but given that I've banged around that area a bit now I'll keep that link handy. How do you disassemble that though? I can't figure out how to get the ignition piece out from underneath the switch. I've got that ring off and it looks like it's supposed to slide over and drop down, but it isn't budging.

Ended up finally getting the hose off the 90 degree piece - took a dremel and pliers to remove the collar first so I could put that piece in a bench vice and crank on the 90 degree adapter with channel locks. (The things I do when I'm unemployed and have all the time in the world...)
 
You should be able to pull the black wire out of the bottom of the ingiter. But I find they get stuck on pretty good and wind up breaking them off every once in a while. I usually just grab it close to the igniter with a needle nose pliers and pull down while lightly twisting it. If it works, fine, if not, I have about six spares and a whole new igniter and gas catcher is only about $7 anyway. You could spray some WD40 or other penatrating oil up in there and let it set for an hour or so before trying to pull it out.
 
Just wanted to drop back in and say thanks for the tips so far. New regulator came several days ahead of schedule, and after a very quick test (I haven't taped the threads or gotten it wrench-tight yet) it fires right up on the first click. Next up: try to de-rust everything else enough so that I can get the burners out and give the inside of the box a better cleaning than just hitting it with an air compressor.
 
DO NOT try to take the screws out at the left end of the burners. THey are NOT meant to be removed. You just take off the manifold and pull the burners out from the right side. You may have to coax them out from the screws, but the screws are just place holders and not meant to be removed.
 
Bruce said:
DO NOT try to take the screws out at the left end of the burners. THey are NOT meant to be removed. You just take off the manifold and pull the burners out from the right side. You may have to coax them out from the screws, but the screws are just place holders and not meant to be removed.
Click to expand...

Phew, glad you mentioned that! Through all of the various teardowns I've seen, I'd never caught that detail. (I'm also relieved to hear it because they looked like they were going to be nearly impossible to break loose.)
 
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