Baffle for the top vent


 
scott hares

scott hares

New member
It's windy today, and I have a cook to do. I setup plywood sheets to protect the bottom vents from the wind, and I thought it would be a good idea to baffle the wind from the top vent too - to stop wind from evacuating the heat from inside the lid.

Just wondering what you all think - if wind is a problem for the top vent. I wipped up a page in case anyone else would like to do the same thing, hope it's ok to post a url: WSM Baffle
 
I have cooked in very strong winds never baffeling the top vent. I think you should be fine. I would however get the pit really warmed up and dont do too much peaking at the meat.
Rick
 
Wind does cause problems, but cold air through the top vent is unlikely to be one of them. Since heat rises, that is going to cause air to draft upwards and out the top vent. That is going to minimize the flow of air in through the top vent. Second, the angle would have to be almost straight down to force a lot of wind into your cooker. Since wind is typically blowing more from the side, most of the air will just blow right past your top vent.

The bottom vent is more of an issue because of the angle and because air is being drawn in through those vents.
 
I agree with what David says. I'm curious as to how you anchored the can to the top. Since is was windy, wouldn't it blow off?
 
I built windscreens that are 2'x4' 1/4" plywood panels framed in 2"x2"s. I hinged 2 of these panels together. They are tall enough to block the wind for the entire height of the WSM, so top and bottom vents are both protected. And since they're hinged, when I set them up they can be positioned at a 90 degree angle and don't tip over. 'Spose I should do pics sometime, huh?
 
Scott,

I'm not sure wind sneaking into your top vent is all that big of an issue. The bigger issue is the convective heat transfer rate that increased over the entire surface of the cooker under windy conditions. Just shielding the vents from forced air drafts (i.e. wind) isn't going to stop the fact that the wind blowing across the outer layer of the cooker is going to cause a higher rate of heat loss. A wind break that stagnates the flow of air across the entire cooker is most effective at minimizing the effect of wind on a cook.
 
Harbormaster, would you post a picture? I tried making a 4-sided hinged box but: A) it warped in spite of 4 coats of paint, B) it was so heavy that I couldn't lift it, and C) it was awkward to set up in the semi-confined area where I use my WSM. Yours is just 2-sided, right?

If I were smoking yesterday and today, I'd surely need it. Gusts to 48 mph; unusual for Atlanta.

Rita
 
I think it's the venturi effect that he's working to eliminate, not drafts entering the vent.

But the issue of heat loss over the entire surface being of greater concern and the effect of a wind screen serving to stop the venturi effect as well as heat loss over the surface of the WSM would lead me to opt for that solution.
 
Thanks everyone - I should have known my baffle wasn't really necessary since there's wasn't much conversation about the subject already. I'm going to build me some of those 2x4 hinged shield Clark described.
 
Scott and Rita,
I'll try to get pics posted tonight. I haven't done it here, so I may struggle.
Also, I have 2 sets of the folding windscreens. I have my WSMs on a table against the back wall of the garage. If using both WSMs I can use both screens and block wind on all sided of bot WSMs. If using one WSM, I can use one or two screens, depending on wind. Since they are relatively light, I can also use both screens to set up around my kettle if it is windy.
To prevent warping, I store them in the garage (I haven't painted them. Need to do that. But, I can't paint them if it's raining, and if it isn't raining, they don't need painting)
 
It's nice that you're able to store the screens inside. I have to store them under a roof overhang on my deck. They mostly stay dry, but if Atlanta's humidity doesn't get them, some spray from a heavy rain will splash on them. A garbage bag doesn't cover them totally.

Looking forward to see how you worked those 2x2's.

Rita
 
As promised, pics.
These are 2'x4' 1/4" plywood panels. The frames are 2"x2" (actually, they are ripped down 2x4s)and are grooved on the inside for the plywood to slide into. Corners are mitered and screwed with about 2" screws. Hinges are 3" stainless hinges I picked up at Menards for a couple of bucks for a 2 pack.

WSMs on table with no windscreens
One windscreen up
Both windscreens up
Closer look at the hinges and miters

Hope this helps those who are interested in building something like this.
 
Looking forward to the shield pics.

Slightly off topic - If you want those wood shields to be impervious to moisture, please refer the threads original post with the link to 'WSM Baffle'.

Viewing 'WSM Baffle', the menu has a 'Waterproofing wood' selection. I trust this recipe on my vintage crackerbox racer.
 
Clark - I like your windscreens. Best I've seen. They look durable, easy to move around and provides wind protection. Looks like my next project. You get my vote to put these pictures in the "Cooking In The Wind, Rain & Cold" section. Thanks for the pictures.

I think for super winds, there must be a good way to connect them together.

Russell
 
Clark, thanks for posting the photos of your windscreens. They are really nice! The grooving is something that we're not equipped to do, but I'm thinking of a work-around. I'll have to troll the aisles of Home Depot to see what might work and still keep the units light enough for me to move and store.
 
Rita,
I used a table saw to cut the "dado" groove using a regular saw blade. Not that tough. By making them just 2 panels hinged they are very easy to move and store. I thought of using those funky hinges that allowed you to open/close either way and hinge all four panels, but the hinges were spendy and would have made the screens too hard to move and limited the flexibility of use.
 
Being a tall guy myself, I like the table. Can I ask how tall it is?

Also, it looks like your shields are using the side of the house as a third wall, is that correct?

Thanks for sharing Clark
 
Harbormaster---nice wind breaks. Kinda like a mini dressing room for the WSM's. Very clean and sharp woodworking too.
 
Scott, I am not tall, 5'8" on a good day. I like it there because I don't have to bend over. The table is about 16"-18" tall. And yes, the shields extend to the siding, so the garage makes the back side of the screen. Also, I read you "treatise" on waterproofing. Excellent. But I store these in the garage, so I think I'll paint them black and add my Wyocena Yacht Club logo to the panels.

Rob, I took a picture of the good corner! No special care taken is assembling these. Just got the corners close.
 
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