Another Genesis 1000 rehab, FB marketplace find for free


 
J

Jeffrey W

TVWBB Member
Just picked this up the other week. I am hoping to bring this back to life. It’s my first time so thankful for all the helpful info here. First thing I need to find out is if it lights up. The crossover tube was all rusted out so I am awaiting a replacement. Hopefully there is no problem with the manifold and I can start the fun job of cleaning and painting. What Is the preferred degreaser for inside the fire box? It looks like a thick layer of baked on carbon. I have the $10.00 angle grinder from harbor freight so I could also tackle it with a wire brush attachment. Don’t need it perfect, just so it’s in good shape for personal use.

Also can someone identify the connector on the regulator. Will it work with a new propane tank?
 

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Looks like a good candidate from the pictures. The old regulator will screw into the new tanks. It is reverse threaded - left to tighten right to loosen
 
Jeffrey W said:
Also can someone identify the connector on the regulator. Will it work with a new propane tank?
Click to expand...
Well, that's a neat trick...

That sure looks like the left-hand thread that would screw into the QCC1 connector. If you look on a propane bottle, inside the piece that has the acme thread on the outside, you'll see that the inside is threaded with something resembling a screw thread - that connector would screw into it. I'd just take that off the regulator and replace it with an acme nut.
 
LeeHarvey said:
Well, that's a neat trick...

That sure looks like the left-hand thread that would screw into the QCC1 connector. If you look on a propane bottle, inside the piece that has the acme thread on the outside, you'll see that the inside is threaded with something resembling a screw thread - that connector would screw into it. I'd just take that off the regulator and replace it with an acme nut.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will order that nut. It looks like from what is on there I’d have to use a wrench every time I need to change the tank. Will the acme nut replace that entire brass piece?
 
If it were mine, I'd replace the hose and regulator all the way back to the manifold.

I'd change the fitting on the manifold to accept a 3/8 inch male flare nut, and then then a standard hose with a 3/8 inch flare nut would just work.

edit:

or get a hose with ( I think ) a 1/4 inch NPT thread on it like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
 
DanHoo said:
If it were mine, I'd replace the hose and regulator all the way back to the manifold.

I'd change the fitting on the manifold to accept a 3/8 inch male flare nut, and then then a standard hose with a 3/8 inch flare nut would just work.
Click to expand...
Do you mean replace that right angle piece attached to the manifold?

Edit: just saw your link. Thanks, this replacement get a lot of good reviews. Maybe not a bad idea to replace the whole thing. It looks like it attaches straight to the fitting on the manifold.
 
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Jeffrey W said:
Do you mean replace that right angle piece attached to the manifold?
Click to expand...

If it were mine, I would replace the entire hose and regulator and I would add a fitting to the manifold so it uses 3/8 inch flare connector.

I am pretty sure the manifold is 1/8 inch NPT, and here is a 5 pack as an example.


Then a hose like this would work and be easily removable from the manifold should it need to be replaced again.



edit: there is no right or wrong choice. Either a hose with a 1/8 inch NPT fitting on the manifold side, or change the fitting to use a 3/8 inch flare and get a hose that fits that style. For me, personally I prefer the flare nut fittings and I have several hoses / regulators to fit a flare nut. The only hoses that I have with a 1/8 NPT fitting have the old style tank connector.
 
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Your harbor freight grinder with a wire cup brush is the perfect tool for the job. As Dan stated above, just get a new hose and regulator. They're only $15 and yours looks like the original one that came on the grill and had a quick connect fitting on it.
 
DanHoo said:
If it were mine, I'd replace the hose and regulator all the way back to the manifold.

I'd change the fitting on the manifold to accept a 3/8 inch male flare nut, and then then a standard hose with a 3/8 inch flare nut would just work.

edit:

or get a hose with ( I think ) a 1/4 inch NPT thread on it like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
Click to expand...
X2 on replacing the hose.

I used this one on my Genesis 1000 and it fit into the old manifold just fine.

Edit: need to find the correct link

Here is what I bought, and I am sure there are less expensive alternatives…F7AD34F3-8108-400D-9CDE-F53E453DC9E1.jpeg
 
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Steve Hoch said:
Your harbor freight grinder with a wire cup brush is the perfect tool for the job. As Dan stated above, just get a new hose and regulator. They're only $15 and yours looks like the original one that came on the grill and had a quick connect fitting on it
Click to expand...
great, I may head over there now and get an attachment, I haven’t used it yet, for that matter I have never used a angle grinder. One of the reasons these types of projects are fun. would you just attack the inside of the firebox with the grinder or would you soak or spray it with a degreaser first.
 
Jeffrey W said:
Just picked this up the other week. I am hoping to bring this back to life. It’s my first time so thankful for all the helpful info here. First thing I need to find out is if it lights up. The crossover tube was all rusted out so I am awaiting a replacement. Hopefully there is no problem with the manifold and I can start the fun job of cleaning and painting. What Is the preferred degreaser for inside the fire box? It looks like a thick layer of baked on carbon. I have the $10.00 angle grinder from harbor freight so I could also tackle it with a wire brush attachment. Don’t need it perfect, just so it’s in good shape for personal use.

Also can someone identify the connector on the regulator. Will it work with a new propane tank?
Click to expand...
She’s a beaut, Clark.
 
DanHoo said:
If it were mine, I'd replace the hose and regulator all the way back to the manifold.

I'd change the fitting on the manifold to accept a 3/8 inch male flare nut, and then then a standard hose with a 3/8 inch flare nut would just work.

edit:

or get a hose with ( I think ) a 1/4 inch NPT thread on it like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
Click to expand...
Not me. Those old regulators are bulletproof. Made in USA and FAR higher quality than the garbage on Amazon. Just replace the POL fitting with an ACME nut. Trust me on this one OP
 
LMichaels said:
Not me. Those old regulators are bulletproof. Made in USA and FAR higher quality than the garbage on Amazon. Just replace the POL fitting with an ACME nut. Trust me on this one OP
Click to expand...
I don't know why I never looked at it like that before, you're probably 100% right about that Larry.
 
LMichaels said:
Not me. Those old regulators are bulletproof. Made in USA and FAR higher quality than the garbage on Amazon. Just replace the POL fitting with an ACME nut. Trust me on this one OP
Click to expand...

I'll trust your experience on this Larry. I've only had one fail, and it was the original from my 2000 silver B.
 
LMichaels said:
Not me. Those old regulators are bulletproof. Made in USA and FAR higher quality than the garbage on Amazon. Just replace the POL fitting with an ACME nut. Trust me on this one OP
Click to expand...
cool, That’s all I really need to hear. Also cheaper and less work to just go with the acme nut. The hose feels fine, pliable, not dried at all,
 
I am going to buy some paint today for the box and frame. I plan on getting Rustoleum High Heat (satin finish) for the box and end caps. However I’ve read a few threads where it is suggested to use high heat ultra on the top part of the frame and then a regular gloss for the rest of the frame. Is there any reason not to use the high heat ultra on the entire frame? Or is this a cost saving measure for people restoring more than one grill.
 
Nice pick up! How's the slide out grease tray? From the pics it looks to be in good condition (hopefully no holes). Those are hard to find nowadays.
 
Jeffrey W said:
I am going to buy some paint today for the box and frame. I plan on getting Rustoleum High Heat (satin finish) for the box and end caps. However I’ve read a few threads where it is suggested to use high heat ultra on the top part of the frame and then a regular gloss for the rest of the frame. Is there any reason not to use the high heat ultra on the entire frame? Or is this a cost saving measure for people restoring more than one grill.
Click to expand...

Cost savings the little things add up…

you don’t need high heat paint where the frame doesn’t touch the firebox.
 
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