Am I Making a Mistake?


 
A

Alex D

New member
So I've had two grills for quite some time, a Genesis Gold Stainless Hood - Model # "2260000" Serial starts with "DT" and a model number "220000" serial starts with "KL" and is a redhead with wood slats from 1993ish.

I've finally got the redhead working and just need to replace flavorizers (plan on using RCPlaneBuyer) and plan on keeping that and gifting the stainless steel to my father in law. The redhead will take some more work from me to fully restore - probably after the summer season, replacing wood slats and probably a nice paint job, getting all new stainless hardware. I really like the looks of the redhead and feel like I'll get less fires with the deep box.

However the redhead doesnt seem to have the heat shield thing on the inside of the hood that the stainless does, even though it's starting to rust out on the stainless, not sure if this is too important or not. Also the redhead gets to full heat (550 degrees) a bit slower than the stainless. Overall condition on both of these is great. Any input from you guys?

3NOuZ

TKh7C


Not sure if the image links are working?
https://imgur.com/a/3NOuZ
https://imgur.com/a/TKh7C
 
Alex,
Only the Stainless lids have the "heat shield" on the inside of the lid, the porcelain models do not. Most of the time that heat shield rusts away and people still use them without much worry.

I'd keep the Redhead too if I were you-with the vintage look of wood, the deeper firebox, it is a a much better grill in my opinion,

Jeff
 
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That shield is only there to keep the stainless steel from turning blue. Has nothing to do with actual performance
 
I combined the two grills that you have and now have this. It would have cost me a fortune to get both of them going. If I were you I would keep the redhead, it looks like you should be able to make it new again without a whole lot of work.

 
LMichaels said:
That shield is only there to keep the stainless steel from turning blue. Has nothing to do with actual performance
Click to expand...

Not sure what is correct, but it was marketed as an insulated hood at the time it was being sold, and it seems to heat up faster than a non insulated hood model
 
Thanks for the responses guys, definitely going to stick with the redhead. First things I want to take care of are replacing rusted bolts/screws while it still is easy to do so. When I first got the grill I cleaned it up some and was also able to break every bolt loose, even the ones that position the burners! However I've noticed that these screws seem to be a thread size that is inbetween an 8 and 10? I was trying to replace the screws that hold the rails on the bottom of the box and couldn't seem to find anything that matched.

Also the control cover, the part that the plastic knobs go on top of - it's held in with these plastic things that clip in and are square, those aren't going back in for me so I'm thinking of just using carriage bolts, anyone have success with that?

Looking forward to having this thing be a pleasure to look at and use!
 
Chris Kug said:
Not sure what is correct, but it was marketed as an insulated hood at the time it was being sold, and it seems to heat up faster than a non insulated hood model
Click to expand...

It's possible. Would think that having 13 FB(heat shields) instead of 5 might cause the earlier gens to heat up a bit slower though.
 
I also have a 1990's redhead with the deep box. I suspect it is much like yours. It needs the wood shelf slats replaced as well as the wood handle but I think the grill is in otherwise pretty good condition. I also a couple newer Genesis grills and could wind up combining them to come up with virtually the same thing as Pat G.

Now, for the OP's current questions.
If you replace any nuts and bolts and this is a grill you intend to keep for yourself, I suggest getting stainless bolts and nuts.
The screws that hold the burners in place on the left of the grill are not supposed to be removed from what I understand. They are basically just there to position the burner tubes and hold them in place. If you get them out without twisting them off, then again replace them with stainless if you can. You might have to go with a Machine screw or self tapping screw. I haven't checked into the plastic things holding the control cover with the burner knob shelf, so no advice there.
Post up some pictures when you get a chance....before and after.
 
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