Affixing 2 X 4 to brick wall ?


 
Google 1/4-20 lead anchors, commonly called "AJs". You'll need a hollow wall set to set them, but they will hold tight.
Lots of tradesmen use them.

Gerry
 
David and G Schafer, I talked with my FIL last night. He's retired electrician. He told me the Tapcons won't work in mortar and they're not meant for brick, he says I need to use the lead anchors. He's got some other ideas also and gonna help me with this.

I appreciate and thank all who took the time to reply.
 
Re drilling into bricks, I have hammer drills and they cannot make a dent in my bricks on my house no matter what brand of bit I use. The mortar? No issue. I don't know what my bricks are made of but all they do is make a tiny dent
 
LMichaels said:
Re drilling into bricks, I have hammer drills and they cannot make a dent in my bricks on my house no matter what brand of bit I use. The mortar? No issue. I don't know what my bricks are made of but all they do is make a tiny dent
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My FIL says going into the brick, ya run risk of hitting hole in the brick.
 
Back in the day we used cut or masonry nails right into the mortar, with a bead of Vulkem caulk on the back.
That stuff will hold anything..
 
Lynn Dollar said:
My FIL says going into the brick, ya run risk of hitting hole in the brick.
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Yes there are usually three of them.
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If you space out the holes (staggered) and drill on a slight inward angle you increase the amount of material your threads will contact.
 
I still want to know how the hell you can even drill into it. I have 2 hammer drills (a large 1/2" corded and my small Bosch 3/8" battery) and neither one can barely make a pimple on the bricks that were used on my house yet can cut right through concrete or the mortar.
 
I should clarify about the Tapcons not working in mortar, my FIL said the gate takes a beating and the vibration wallows out the Tapcons. They might work in other applications. I've used them to on shelf brackets and they work fine.
 
Now, if you believe any advertising,NyQuil should just use Gorilla glue! 😉
That will stick anything to anything forever....yeah, right.
 
Lynn Dollar said:
That post is old , but its solid. Doesn't have to support a lot of fence, there's maybe 4' till it reaches the corner.

I think I've rebuilt the gate twice.

I think I'm gonna try the 5/16 Tapcon, talk to my FIL about a hammer drill. Buy the Tapcon bit and use the Loctite adhesive. If that doesn't work then next would be securing a 4 X 4 to the sidewalk.
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Lynn we have to fasten to brick all the time. The best results have been epoxy anchors, either threaded inserts or threaded rod.
 
LMichaels said:
I still want to know how the hell you can even drill into it. I have 2 hammer drills (a large 1/2" corded and my small Bosch 3/8" battery) and neither one can barely make a pimple on the bricks that were used on my house yet can cut right through concrete or the mortar.
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Do you have glazed bricks? Those are the only ones that gave me problems, would dull out a regular masonry bit, but a SDS drill and bit would power right thru.
 
Well, I got it fixed. How long it will be fixed, I don't know. I ended up using lag shields, same thing that was done originally in 1980. I used the same holes they drilled. But it will buy me some time till maybe I can find a better way. I did find that drilling into brick is a tough go.
 
Caulk the edges with some Vulkem. Its flexible and can stand up to the beating your latch side takes.
Plus is you don't need a primer.
I hate to say this, but 90% of the windows and doors in old buildings are attached with caulk...
 
timothy said:
Caulk the edges with some Vulkem. Its flexible and can stand up to the beating your latch side takes.
Plus is you don't need a primer.
I hate to say this, but 90% of the windows and doors in old buildings are attached with caulk...
Click to expand...
Ain't that the truth, urethane sealants are forever. There are parts on my 1968 Chris Craft that I still can't get loose.
 
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