2010 Summit Snap Jet Igniter Help


 

J.Guyette

New member
I picked up a recent-ish Summit s-670 on Craigslist. Very minimal rust, and it cleaned up great. Of the six burners, three of them ignite perfectly with the snap jet igniters. The other three feel like everything is fine, but they won’t light. I can feel and hear a definite click at the point they are supposed to light. Does anybody have any experience troubleshooting this system? I already replaced all of the batteries.
Thanks in advance!
 
I have never paid eyes on them but I THINK I know how they work. The "snap" causes a piezoelectric spark at the end of a small tube on the gas valve. It then shoots a small "pilot" flame our which is what finally ignites the main burner(s). So trouble shooting is two fold. 1. to see if the electrodes actually spark and 2 to check if gas is flowing ot of the small "pilot jet".
 
I think the electronic ignition on all the newer Weber grills is stupid. Very few grills that I have acquired that had the battery operated igniter still worked. Even after replacing the battery, they were still toast and often the battery compartment was not only full of rust, but water as well. The old style piezo push button igniters were much more robust and generally light the grill first push anyway.
 
I think the electronic ignition on all the newer Weber grills is stupid. Very few grills that I have acquired that had the battery operated igniter still worked. Even after replacing the battery, they were still toast and often the battery compartment was not only full of rust, but water as well. The old style piezo push button igniters were much more robust and generally light the grill first push anyway.


Never been a fan of piezo, awfully loud. However I do hate the ingnitor buttons on current Weber's very cheaply made.
 
Bruce is right about the battery powered igniters. My first one, I broke pressing it too hard to try to get a spark. The 2nd one requires maintenance on the underside of the button to clean the contact there. At first, I thought it was the contact down in the igniter, but then found the opposite end is the real culprit.
 

 

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