Replacing q1000 regulator with a q2000 regulator?


 

Chun H

New member
I see that the q2000 grill is rated at 12000 btu vs 8000btu with the q1000. If I replace my q1000 regulator with the q2000's, will I get higher btu output?
 
Good question! I hope our gas expert LMichaels will way in here. I do not believe there is any difference between these regulators. The BTU count, I believe, is a function of the size of the orifice and presumably the burner. The Q2000 has a larger burner and I wouldn't be surprised to find a slightly wider opening in the orifice.
 
Both use a 11" wc regulator. To get more BTUs, you'll need to go to a bigger orifice. Use a propane orifice chart for 11"wc gas pressure to find out what size you need.

Keep in mind that if you go too high, you might run into issues such as increased corrosion of the burner and cooking grate. It'll also be harder to throttle down the heat at the gas valve
 
Last edited:
The orifice and the regulator along with flow control are all built into one assembly on the Q grills. So yes if you find a way to shoehorn the 2xx regulator into the 1xx the BTU will be dangerously high for that smaller grill. Not a smart move IMO
 
So there are two opposing opinions on this. I would like to know the answer for sure.

Another option would be to convert it over to running solely off a bulk propane tank with a standard regulator and hose. I know this works. I also know that buying a new regulator made specifically for the Q grills is too expensive to make it worth while. If the Q2000 regulator won't work and you still want to be able to use a 1 lb disposable bottle, you would be better off stealing a regulator off another Q1xxx grill.
 
If you purchase a new QXxxx regulator from Weber it is model specific as the regulator comes as an assembly. That assembly includes the actual gas regulator AND the control valve with the main orifice. So if you replace an entire regulator assembly in a Q1xxx with one from a Q2xxx you have nearly doubled the BTU. This can cause extremely dangerous conditions as IIRC the Q1xxx is about 7k BTU while the Q2xxx is about 12k BTU.
That being said I don't even know if Weber would be dumb enough to make them in a way that they could easily be interchanged.
Now Bruce on to your question. The size of the tank does not dictate the BTU consumption of the appliance. That is dependent on only 2 things. Pressure (and btw a big giant LP tank has the same pressure internally as your little 1lb cylinder), and flow rate. Flow rate is dependent on 2 things. The size of the regulating orifice and the pressure pushing it through that orifice (up to a certain point).
That is why if you look at a conversion flow chart there are numerous "conditions" to get the same BTU. The regulator on a Q (or any LP grill for that matter) operates at 11" WC. So to answer your question to do the conversion on the Q1/2xxx grills you need to separate the regulator from the control valve/orifice assembly. You then use a hose with a tank mounted regulator. So the valve/orifice assembly is still at 11" WC. This doesn't change whether you use a 5lb or 500lb tank
Hopefully this makes sense
 
Chun:
If you still need a Q1xx regulator, PM me. I might be able to part out one of mine. I have two or three.
 
IMO, replacing the orifice is the better way to experiment with higher btus. The Q2000 gas valve assembly might cause your grill to be too hot. Going the spare orifice method, you can choose precisely how many BTUs you want. Eg. For 10000 BTUs, get an orifice with a 0.038" hole.

I believe someone on this forum was bumped their Q1200 to 10000 btu using a 0.038 orifice and claimed it worked well.
 
Last edited:
IMO, replacing the orifice is the better way to experiment with higher btus. The Q2000 gas valve assembly might cause your grill to be too hot. Going the spare orifice method, you can choose precisely how many BTUs you want. Eg. For 10000 BTUs, get an orifice with a 0.038" hole.

I believe someone on this forum was bumped their Q1200 to 10000 btu using a 0.038 orifice and claimed it worked well.

is the Q1xxx series orifice removal ?
 
Looking at the photos of the gas valve, yes the orifice looks removable with a socket and ratchet.

If you do this mod, please report back with the results.

One more thing...if you increase the gas flow, you'll also need to check the flame and make sure it's not yellow. If you increase the gas output, the flame might burn rich because there's not enough air mixing into the gas. It's an easy adjustment though. You can increase the air mixture by adjusting the shutter on the burner.
 
Last edited:
Given the design and materials it's made of modding a Q like this IMO makes you a candidate for the Darwin award. Stupid at best
 
Yah, unless you know what you are doing, it sounds a bit dangerous. Either replace it with a Q1xxx regulator or replace it with a generic hose and regulator and use it with a bulk propane tank.
 

 

Back
Top