Removing The Lid For Transport


 
Rusty James

Rusty James

TVWBB Emerald Member
Maybe a dumb question, but is it difficult to remove the lid of a red-top gas grill for transport in an old mini-van?

Maybe it would be a good idea to remove the grates and flavorizer bars too?
 
Rusty James said:
Maybe a dumb question, but is it difficult to remove the lid of a red-top gas grill for transport in an old mini-van?
Click to expand...

Rusty, the hood comes off once you remove 2 clevis pins. Most of the time, the pins slide out of the firebox without too much hassle, but I did have one particular grill that I was picking up where one of the clevis pin was seized inside the firebox (but I was still able to slide the lid off the stuck clevis pin).
 
Rusty is right on. Typically, it takes about 60 seconds to remove the lid. I also had one pin in a grill that siezed. I wound up cracking the firebox trying to get it out. But, that was one grill out of the two dozen or so that I have picked up for rehabbing.

When I pick up a grill to transport, I usually leave intact. But if I dont have help to get it into my truck, I will remove the lid, grates, flavo bars, bottom shelf and other shelves and anything else easily removable.
 
So, maybe I need a hammer and a drift pin to remove the lid pins with? (and maybe a can of WD-40)
 
Possible. But likely no. Just be careful if you start using a hammer on it. That's how I cracked my cook box.
 
Do not use a hammer if it's stuck. You will break the aluminum. Bring some PBlaster penetrating oil, a pair of pliers and maybe a plumber's torch. Whatever you do don't use a hammer
 
Thanks for the PB Blaster (and no hammer) advice. I have a can on hand, but I don't have a torch.
 
I used PB blaster on mine. I put it on three times one day and again the next morning. They still would not budge. I tried a vice grip and couldn't even get them to turn. I then resorted to hammering and after breaking the cook box, I gave up and grabbed the angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. At that point, the box was already toast. I have spares, so it wasn't a big deal. I just wanted the lid off.

Also, that was by far the worst one I have seen in about two dozen grills.
 
Here's the grill. Actually, it's blue head, but I didn't know what else to call it. The owner says it's about 15 years old, and he replaced the grilling surface and the flavorizer bars recently (maybe the burners (3), too, but I can't remember). He likes the grill, but he's downsizing for Father's Day.

00g0g_fxvjJ5SGCFS_600x450.jpg
 
Rusty James said:
Thanks for the PB Blaster (and no hammer) advice. I have a can on hand, but I don't have a torch.
Click to expand...

Rusty,

I have one of these have used it multiple times just used it to get the washer off a performer ash sweeper which when I restored it a few of the blades were bent so I had to get it off. Soaked it with PB for days it would not budge so then took the torch hit it with some heat and it worked. I have found numerous uses for it and now they make one that has a trigger igniter for about 4 bucks more.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-UL100-Basic-Propane-Torch-Kit-UL100KC/203665003
 
I have a lot of car detailing experience. I think I can restore the painted surfaces with a mild cleaner, although I may have to be careful with the printed areas around the control knobs. Is the blue hood porcelain coated?
 
The control panel and the blue part of the hood are porcelain coated. Most just use #000 steel wool and simple green to clean them. The inside of the hood too, you can make it shine like a mirror if you put enough elbow grease into it. Don't worry, you won't rub any lettering or lines off using this approach, it's been done many times.

Slainte!

Tim
 
I like the frames on those earlier Silver/Gold Cs because they still use the 2 lower frame pieces to tie the legs together and the wire shelf just sits atop the lower frame pieces, whereas the later ones rely on the wire shelf for structural support. Nice find!
 
I once had a pickup and took 2 pairs of pliers. One of them was a pain and I got lucky I wacked it a few times and it didn't crack the aluminum. I thought about coming back with a Dremel in case I couldn't remove the cotter pin or the bolt but was lucky I got it out by twisting the bolt free first. The bolt was not looking pretty but it was reusuable.
 
I have used both#000 and #0000 steel wool. neither scratched the enamel on the lid, inside or outside. I even use household stainless steel wool pads on the inside. That stuff is tough.
Anyway, best to stay with #0000 on the outside. Anything rougher is not necessary there.

The razor blade trick is one I recently started using. I didn't see anything about it before, but I had a nasty lid that was giving me fits inside and I grabbed a box cutter blade and "bam" it took the baked on carbon right off. I went down and bought a razor blade scraper the next day and it has cut my time on the inside of the lid from 1/2 to 1 hour down to 15 minutes. Crazy how easily and quickly it strips that stuff after a spray with simple green. You still need steel wool and simple green to clean up the leftovers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top