You and me both! Every time I put together a 4.3 case I think about producing a video on the tricks to put it together easily, yet it has still not happened. I even took some test footage to play with in Premiere Elements and thought "well this is going to take all day!" and gave up. I hope you can muster more ambition than I can.Originally Posted by SteveCK
I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.
That's the problem isn't it! When do I have time to sit down for a couple hours and do this? Life is busssyyyy! I promise it will be done eventually though!
Creator of the MicroDamper - first inline and linear damper
Blackstone Posse :: KCBS Member
If you are looking for a dead simple solution for attaching your Microdamper to a Kamado I made this after one trip to the hardware store. It is press fit only and seems to work. If I had more time I may have fabbed a plate; however, it being Mother's day weekend I decided that discretion is still the better part of valor.
If I like it after a few cooks I may sweat the pipe; however, I also like the fact that I don't need to unscrew the microdamper in order to remove it.
Parts:
- BBQ Guru "Ceramic Adapter" (Part #: B800-1001-120)
- 1.25" to 1" copper reducer
- Length of 1" pipe cut to fit
- 1" threaded adapter
The only tool that you will need is a pipe cutter or hack saw unless your hardware store is willing to cut it for you.
Order of assembly
BBQ GURU Adapter-->1.25" to 1" reducer-->1" pipe-->1" threaded nipple
If you use a rubber mallet or a soft tap the 1 1/4" reducer will press nicely onto the BBQ guru adapter. If you feel like you aren't happy with the seal sweat the 1" threaded piece to the reducer or use metallic ducting tape to seal.
This fits my Kamado Joe Big Joe perfectly. I'll just have to remember not to hit it with my leg...
This is a picture of the parts before they were pressed together. The 1" section of cut pipe should fit so that you are able to press both pieces together without a gap:
Looks good. I didn't know a 1.25" fitting would fit over the BBQ Guru adapter, that's really good to know, because anything that fits inside reduces the diameter further than I recommend.
One thing to note, it's probably not a good idea to sweat the pipes together without checking the MSDS on your solder. Using high temp RTV would be another option that's known to be safe. Plus the adapters/pipe nipples don't get nearly as hot as some people think. Next time I do a cook I'll use my infrared thermometer to get a measurement, but I'd bet its somewhere around or below. 200*F
Creator of the MicroDamper - first inline and linear damper
Blackstone Posse :: KCBS Member
Thanks Steve--a 1 1/4" reducing male threaded adapter would be ideal...
Here is a shot down the bore (it is unloaded, safety engaged and not pointed directly at me):
Last edited by Kiaikai B; 05-15-2017 at 11:05 AM.
If you are looking for a dead simple solution for attaching your Microdamper to a Kamado I made this after one trip to the hardware store. It is press fit only and seems to work. If I had more time I may have fabbed a plate; however, it being Mother's day weekend I decided that discretion is still the better part of valor.
If I like it after a few cooks I may sweat the pipe; however, I also like the fact that I don't need to unscrew the microdamper in order to remove it.
Parts:
Or you could go with this if you're doing a slip fit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020478
- BBQ Guru "Ceramic Adapter" (Part #: B800-1001-120)
- 1.25" to 1" copper reducer
- Length of 1" pipe cut to fit
- 1" threaded adapter
The only tool that you will need is a pipe cutter or hack saw unless your hardware store is willing to cut it for you.
Order of assembly
BBQ GURU Adapter-->1.25" to 1" reducer-->1" pipe-->1" threaded nipple
If you use a rubber mallet or a soft tap the 1 1/4" reducer will press nicely onto the BBQ guru adapter. If you feel like you aren't happy with the seal sweat the 1" threaded piece to the reducer or use metallic ducting tape to seal.
This fits my Kamado Joe Big Joe perfectly. I'll just have to remember not to hit it with my leg...
This is a picture of the parts before they were pressed together. The 1" section of cut pipe should fit so that you are able to press both pieces together without a gap:
Or you could go with this if you're doing a slip fit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020478
Hi, I've looked through this thread but this doesn't seem to have been asked previously…
I'm in the UK where NPT thread, or even adapters seems to be non-existent. Any suggestions on how to go about mounting the MicroDamper to my WSM?
This no longer works with changes that have been made to the MicroDamper
Creator of the MicroDamper - first inline and linear damper
Blackstone Posse :: KCBS Member
There are quite a few MicroDampers in the UK, hopefully someone will chime in because I've never been asked about this - I've always assumed people have been able to source it somewhere because nobody has ever asked. If you want I can send you some parts to get it done, shoot me an email
Creator of the MicroDamper - first inline and linear damper
Blackstone Posse :: KCBS Member
My damper is attached directly to the side of my PBC. By directly, I mean it's literally silicone glued to the side with nothing standing it off. The alumide that I had it printed from claims "heatproof to 172* F". It's not deformed at all. I don't know what the actual melting point is though.
Last time I ran the pit, I let her rip with the damper at 100% and the top off for a bit. When I put the top back on, there was literally flames shooting backwards out of the damper for 20-30 seconds until I got it closed. Still fine.
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