Making Stock


 
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The recipes section of this forum is very active and contains a wealth of information and ideas. However, though I haven't looked at every post, there doesn't seem to be any mention of using your leftover carcases, scraps and bones to make stock. So I thought I'd put in my 2 cents worth on this subject.

The French, who certainly know a lot about cooking, call stock "fonds de cuisine", which literally means "fountations of cooking". It is an essential ingredient in all manner of cooking. Making stock is fairly simple and foolproof and when we make our own stocks we can add our own unique flavor to our dishes which no one can duplicate exactly.

There are basically two kinds of stock, white and brown. White stock is made from raw bones and scraps and brown stock is made from cooked bones and scraps. Since we are using leftovers from BBQ'n, we are making brown stock.

The ingredients in stock fall into three catagories. First, of course, bones and scraps (flavor, body and texture), second, aromatic vegitables (flavor) and third herbs and spices (flavor and heat). The equipment you need is a large stock pot, a collender, a seive, cheesecloth and jars for storage. The method for making stock is much more important than the recipe, as is true in most cooking, so I'll detail how I make the stock and suggest certain ingredients.

The aromatic vegitables: These are basically onion, celery and carrots. I buy a couple bags of celery hearts, carrots and onions. I clean the vegies and cut the celery into stalks then halves. Cut the tips and stem ends off the carrots and cut them in half, no need to peel, just wash well. Peel the loose outer skin from the onions and cut off the stem end and cut in half. I put four pieces each of the vegies into quart freezer bags add two bay leaves and put them in the freezer. I use one bage per pot of stock.

Bones and Scraps: I BBQ mostly chicken and pork so these are usually what I use. After I cut or pull off the useable meat, I put all the bones and scraps into the stock pot, including the skin and fat. I don't segregate the different kinds of leftovers. The pork goes right in with the poultry. For extra rich stock, get a veal knuckle from the butcher, smoke it in the WSM for several hours and add it as well.

Herbs and Spices: Add a TBSP of Kosher salt and a generous grinding of fresh black pepper along with a couple TBSP of herbs. I use a pre-packaged "bouquet garni". You can also add a TBSP or two of crushed red pepper if you like heat.

The Method: Cover it all with cold water from the tap and bring to a boil. Lower the temp and cook at a low boil for several hours, stirring occasionally. When the liquid has reduced to about half, pour through a collender into a clean pot. Let it cool and put into the referigerator overnight. The next day, the fat will have solidified on the top of the stock. Remove and discard this fat with a spoon then bring the stock to a boil. Place several thicknesses of cheesecloth in a seive and strain the stock into a clean pot. Return to the boil and reduce the stock until you have about a pint of liquid. Let this cool a bit and pour into a pint mason jar, cover and put into the refrigertor.

This process is one of extraction and reduction. First you are extracting the flavors from the ingredients. Then, during the reduction process you are only removing the water (steam) and concentrating the flavor. What you end up with is highly concentrated, thick, gelatinous stock. The French call this "glace de viende". In this form it will keep in your refer for several weeks. Use about a TBSP of this to a cup of water or wine to make reconstituted stock and use in your cooking.

I know this has been long and seems involved, but try it, you'll like it. The process itself is very rewarding and the result is a stock that has a wonderful smokey flavor which along with your unique blend of ingredients will add an individual flair to the dishes you serve your guests.
 
Hey, Bill. You're not alone, I do this, too. I think that smoked chicken stock is a cut above it's non-smoked bretheren. I also use rib trimmings to make stock if I'm too lazy to cook them, or if they are just too small to be worth it. I always have a bag in the freezer for throwing trimmings and yardbird carcasses into. Once a month or so, I'll get a big pot of stock going, and freeze most of it in 1 cup quantities (or in ice cube trays....great for pan sauces!)

Nice post.

Rich
 
We make stock regularly, both chicken and beef (ok, so it ain't usually beef bones in there). Made a full stock pot the night before last with chicken bones. Seems I been collecting a few lately.

When you butcher game, you always want to bone it, never want to saw through bones, as you do with domestic meat. I suspect that venison gained its unwarranted reputation as gamey as much from marrow dragged across the meat when it was bandsawed into cuts as from poor field care.

So, whaddya do with that big pile of bones after all the meat is pkgd and frozen? You ever been bone-weary and cold to your own marrow, so cold you couldn't even shiver, and come home to a house with fogged up windows, a house filled with the essence of vegetable soup? /infopop/emoticons/icon_razz.gif
 
Pat, gotta agree with the browning of bones as a flavor bonus, beef or wild cervids. Very hot oven in iron skillets first. Then you gotta add about a half cup of white vinegar to the water to help leach the bones. Them cervids is tough, but when they yield it up, they give you the same heart.
 
Bill, I read over your post more carefully in a leisure moment and am curious why you choose celery hearts over regular celery. Are your tastes that refined in the face of a flavor that robust? Not a challenge, mind you. Just preparing myself to marvel, as I do at musicians with perfect pitch or wine connoisseurs with file cabinets for brains. Anticipating your answer, I guess, which I shouldn't do.

So, why do you?
 
One note on carrots for your stock. Most culinary schools teach to peel your carrots, as the peels may tend to make your stock bitter. I never do, nor do I usually peel carrots for stew dishes either, but just thought I would pass this along.

Also, when I make chicken soup, I always use Kosher whole chicken. This chicken has no scum when boiled from the raw state, and the flavor and color are unsurpassable.
 
You need to find a grocery that caters to Jewish clientele. Around where I live, two high-end grocery chains carry Empire Brand kosher chicken and turkey. If your butcher doesn't carry them, perhaps they can make a recommendation.

Regards,
Chris
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> When I don't have one [turkey carcass],I get smoked wings and legs from the store. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Pat, no need to pay extra for those upscale smoked wings and such in the meat market. Whenever I have something on the smoker, I usually fill in open space with some chicken wings or backs, turkey wings, or whatever other bony pieces I could find cheap. These pieces then go into the smoked scraps bag in the freezer to fortify the next stock pot.

Bill, I'm glad you made your stock post. I wondered if I was the only one who kept a scraps bag in the freezer for just such purposes! /infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif I like your idea about the veal knuckle bone, too.

Keri C
Smokin on Tulsa Time
 

 

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