Hello all........generally i do not remove all.the paint from my end caps or cook box. I use a roll on paint to mask chips and blotches. I have found that HF brush cups just dont remove paint on end.caps very well at all..........i used.this today.......hopefully i can load a pic.......the paint just flew right off.....it did leave some scratching but i believe i will.be able to wire wheel the scratches away.
Woooooo hoooooo no more brush cup for paint removal!!!! I found a good product for.this task
- Thread starter JimV
- Start date
Ok Bruce...here is my follow up. I am working on an older Silver B and one of the end caps was very chipped up so I made the decision that all the paint would have to come off of both end caps. The problem is that other than the chips the old paint was really on there....you know you are in trouble when your brush cup just spins across the top of the black paint without cutting in at all. I used this new pad and literally had both end caps completely stripped in 10 minutes. Now this will not work for the spray on High Heat Ultra because you will see the scratches for sure. I rolled on one coat tonight and I am pretty sure it will cover the mild scratches. I did tame the scratches by going over the end caps w my brush cup. Of course I rolled on friggin BROWN paint but I will cover that on my post about the Rustoleum being brown. After all that prep work to roll on brown paint that is supposed to be black really deflates me 
........Now the big question is.......when do I top coat with High Heat Ultra spray to darken up my brown end caps? 24 hours? After a burn in? When? If it doesnt work I will have a lot of explaining to do to my customer.
........Now the big question is.......when do I top coat with High Heat Ultra spray to darken up my brown end caps? 24 hours? After a burn in? When? If it doesnt work I will have a lot of explaining to do to my customer.
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I have never used the roll on paint, so this is just a somewhat educated guess. For paint to really cure, a period of something like 7 days would be best. That assumes you can afford to wait that long. I am not so sure about the idea of doing a burn in and then painting. I will be interested in what others here think.
Hey Jon thanks for your reply. I dont know how u guys hide all of the chips and imperfections with spray on paint. Well I know how Bruce does it.......sand blasted end caps! So maybe you are doing the same. My recent discovery of using flat high heat spray does do a good job of masking imperfections and doesnt look half bad but the gloss as we all know will get very blotchy over chips and such. So thats how I ended up on the roll on paint scene. It covers well and masks imperfections while giving a nice textured finish in a satin sheen. That was great until things turned brown in brown town
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I am in the process of starting to use a sand blasting guy. In the past I have either wire brushed to bare metal or, when I thought I could get by with it, painted with high heat spray, touched up with a Rustoleum texture spray paint and covered with another coat of high heat black. I suppose the life expectancy of that arrangement is questionable, but the look is close to stock.
What you are showing is fan freakin tastic. I tried a texture spray one time and got the bubbles so I laid off. Have you done high heat burn offs with your textured spray with no issues? The keys are in the prep work and what u started with...... But your results are fantastic!!!