What to do about rust?


 

DanJC

TVWBB Fan
I've seen a number of threads referencing sanding and/or treating rust, but not sure what the best method is. I have rust on both frame and some of the porcelain-coated pieces as well.

Thanks in advance!
 
Yeah, I guess I'm just trying to get a sense of what type of rusting is salvageable and what is garbage. If it's rusted through w/ holes that's pretty straightforward, but otherwise I'm unsure. Here's a couple of examples. Both pieces have significant rust, but otherwise feel solid (even on the rusted parts). Then, if I do keep it, what's the best method for dealing w/ the rust?

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If it were me, I would write off the z brackets and spring for stainless replacement ones. I think your drip pan holder might be restored if the welds don’t fail while you clean them up. I would suggest trying a rust remover chemical first and then hand sand anything remaining. Because of the heat that part experiences I am not sure a rust encapsulater would work. Probably just prime with high heat primer and paint with two or three coats of high heat black.
 
Yeah, I guess I'm just trying to get a sense of what type of rusting is salvageable and what is garbage. If it's rusted through w/ holes that's pretty straightforward, but otherwise I'm unsure. Here's a couple of examples. Both pieces have significant rust, but otherwise feel solid (even on the rusted parts). Then, if I do keep it, what's the best method for dealing w/ the rust?

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I would repair the bar for the table, and probably the same for the catch pan holder. Id knock off the loose stuff, scuff it up, hit it with rust converter and then coat them both gloss black. That being said, the catch pan holder and pan can be had on amazon for less than $20. There is one that comes with a stainless steel grease pan.
 
A guy named Dave Santana (who uses the handle “rcplanebuyer” on eBay) is a great friend to grill restorers. Don’t look on eBay but rather search the San Francisco Bay Area Craigslist using words like Weber grates or flavorizer bars. You should find an advertisement with a Burlingame address. That’s him. Don’t worry about what the advertisement shows. Just message him about exactly what you need and mention that you found out about him here on TVWBB. He should be able to help, and that will save you eBay fees. He is not a cheap provider but rather a craftsman who delivers consistently high quality products that truly last - often longer than the grill itself!
 
Probably better to ask what are your intentions for this grill...are you going to flip it? Gift it? Keep it for a while until something better comes along? Or a forever grill?
 
I would scrub, repair, and paint. Those pieces are not actually visible. Just be careful with that catch pain bracket. If the rust gets invasive, you can snap off the hook.
 
A guy named Dave Santana (who uses the handle “rcplanebuyer” on eBay) is a great friend to grill restorers. Don’t look on eBay but rather search the San Francisco Bay Area Craigslist using words like Weber grates or flavorizer bars. You should find an advertisement with a Burlingame address. That’s him. Don’t worry about what the advertisement shows. Just message him about exactly what you need and mention that you found out about him here on TVWBB. He should be able to help, and that will save you eBay fees. He is not a cheap provider but rather a craftsman who delivers consistently high quality products that truly last - often longer than the grill itself!
Fantastic. Was planning on getting grates and flavorizers from him. Will inquire about other parts.
Probably better to ask what are your intentions for this grill...are you going to flip it? Gift it? Keep it for a while until something better comes along? Or a forever grill?
Good question. I am refurbishing a 1000 and a 2000, the former to sell and the latter to keep forever (or as long as it lasts). I'd consider just going all in and getting solid custom pieces for the forever grill.
I would scrub, repair, and paint. Those pieces are not actually visible. Just be careful with that catch pain bracket. If the rust gets invasive, you can snap off the hook.
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably attempt this for the grill I am selling.
 
Good question. I am refurbishing a 1000 and a 2000, the former to sell and the latter to keep forever (or as long as it lasts). I'd consider just going all in and getting solid custom pieces for the forever grill.
I'd suggest keeping your options open. Don't spend the money on the forever stuff but buy good stuff that will get you down the road a few years with the idea in mind that you will review your situation in 5 years, rebuild it all over again at that time or buy something else you'd rather have. This Weberitis...I'm telling you, it's the thrill of the hunt, the roll of the dice, every bit as much as finding the grill of your dreams.
 
I'd suggest keeping your options open. Don't spend the money on the forever stuff but buy good stuff that will get you down the road a few years with the idea in mind that you will review your situation in 5 years, rebuild it all over again at that time or buy something else you'd rather have. This Weberitis...I'm telling you, it's the thrill of the hunt, the roll of the dice, every bit as much as finding the grill of your dreams.
I like the advice from a philosophical standpoint, but practically speaking what would cause me to need a rebuild in 5 years if I bought good stuff? Wouldn't regular maintenance keep much of the rust and decay at bay?
 
It is kind of like the guy that hand washes and waxes his 2009 Chevy Cobalt every weekend in the driveway.
Just because.
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I’ve actually had some pretty good results using electrolysis as a method for rest removal. I have done Z brackets like yours (mine weren’t quite as rusted ), I have done a propane tank scale, and also I have used it on some frame pieces that had some rust on the inside of the frame piece. I have also done a drip pan tray holder like the one you pictured.
This method does not require harsh chemicals, and it is non-abrasive.
 
I have gotten myself in a little trouble here because I don't exclusively recommend "rcplanebuyer." That isn't because I think there is someone better but because I think for a good number of people some of the "lesser" alternatives are acceptable trade-offs for the cost savings. In the flip grill world, especially, the margins are almost always way too tight to buy all the most expensive parts. So, I can see merit in some middle of the road options for grates and flavorizer bars, generally speaking.

When it comes to z-brackets, my Florida years of picking up old grills has really soured me on regular steel, no matter how well painted. These parts get scratched and sit with water/moisture on them a lot. That's why most in Florida are rusted out beyond use. So, stainless IS worth it to me. There may be some other sources, but Dave Santana/rcplanebuyer is one I would recommend.

For flavorizer bars for 13-bar fireboxes your options are very limited. Dave's prices are not out of line with the one or two better made imported 304 stainless options. Given that, buying from him -USA craftsman - seems like a clear-cut better choice. I personally would NOT recommend the really flimsy 20 gauge cheep stainless flavorizers you might find, whether for a "keeper" or a flip grill.
 
I picked up a new black lid that is absolutely beautiful. But it has a tiny amount of rust on the edges.

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Picked up some Loctite rust dissolver from Ace, but says not to use on porcelain.

Whats the best way to eliminate and protect on the lid?
 
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For stuff you are flipping, just grind it down with a wire wheel, then paint with either Rustoleum or the High Heat BBQ paint.
If you are buying parts for a flip grill, just get the cheap stainless steel stuff from Amazon. No point in eating into your profits with high end parts.

For your keeper....I'm not sure from your pictures what is from your keeper or flip....
Keeper, just buy a new grease drip pan holder...they are maybe $20 on Amazon.
The heat shield plate bracket, grind/sand off the rust. The use a rust converter spray and then high heat paint.
 
@Rick W has a small amount of fade, but not too noticeable.

Rust:

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it's a tiny amount but just curious -- is best move to just tape off and spray w/ rustoleum high heat? More concerned w/ protection than aesthetics.
 

 

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