What kind of wood for Weber Genesis 1000?


 
B

Brian Corey

TVWBB Member
I purchased a nice red Genesis 1000 off craigslist recently. I'm going to do a clean and restore this spring. Right now, it has the durawood shelves and I want to replace them with real wood. Anyone know what kind of wood was used for the grill originally? I have a cover for it so it will be out of the elements. I might use oak or cedar...


Thanks!
 
Thanks for the reply! My durawood looks a little faded... I'll keep them in a box just in case. I'll try some cedar this spring!
 
Definitely use cedar, or redwood. Even teak. Do NOT use treated wood. Food could pick up poison from it. I painted my wood slats with equipment enamel (Case red) which happens to match the redhead Genesis perfectly. I sprayed them with a primer/sealer, than sprayed them with the equipment enamel. Did this like 6 years ago and they are holding up great
 
I would contact a fence or deck contactor, as they would have scrapes that you could pick up at a very good price, then cut and mill them to your needs. Plus deck builders use real hard woods like(Epay) I know I miss spelled that but it is the wood of choice on This Old House Tommy likes to use for decks.
 
I believe Weber used Redwood as it's harder than Cedar but either will work. ( just use SS fasteners on RW )
Ipe or EE-pay is good stuff if you can find it, Tommy from TOH knows his stuff, the other guy :rolleyes:

Tim
 
I used brass solid brass screws with SS washers when I redid mine. No issues at all. Grill sits outside uncovered all summer. I only cover it in winter to keep snow/ice off
 
I love redwood but is hard to find and is pricey here. Cedar is a good wood that will stand up in the weather, and gray out nicely if you let it. SS hardware is the way to go but watch it use hand tools when installing as SS is soft and will strip out easily.
 
If you can find some D-Fir CVG decking that is some beautiful stuff when using a clear coat. Before outdoor decks became popular, that's all we used on porches.

Tim
 
Kevin L (NKY) said:
I love redwood but is hard to find and is pricey here. Cedar is a good wood that will stand up in the weather, and gray out nicely if you let it. SS hardware is the way to go but watch it use hand tools when installing as SS is soft and will strip out easily.
Click to expand...

SS is not soft it is VERY hard (almost brittle in fact). Brass is very soft but in the use I gave it (non structural low input torque) a non-issue. The wood(s) recommended (cedar, redwood, etc) are soft. But there was one exotic wood recommended and it is VERY hard.
 
Kevin's right if he means the heads will strip if using regular steel driver tips. 90% of the fasteners I use on the job (commercial windows) are SS. We have to use SS driver bits as steel tips can scratch the head and cause premature rusting. Use of a beeswax lube like Easy Thread or Screwax helps prevent stripped heads or screw breakage.
Not needed on a bolt&nut tho.:)

Tim
 
timothy said:
Kevin's right if he means the heads will strip if using regular steel driver tips. 90% of the fasteners I use on the job (commercial windows) are SS. We have to use SS driver bits as steel tips can scratch the head and cause premature rusting. Use of a beeswax lube like Easy Thread or Screwax helps prevent stripped heads or screw breakage.
Not needed on a bolt&nut tho.:)

Tim
Click to expand...

Correct Tim I meant the screw heads will strip out, people will change out all the screws on a airplane to reduce rust streaks but after the hardware has been installed a while the screws are very hard to remove and drilling them is to use a easyout is not fun either, if you were wanting remove on a regular basis i would use a anti seize compound milk of maganiseia works great as lots people have it at home,actually recommended by some jet engine manufactures,use the unflavored type(no sugar) works great on spark plugs.
 
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