Weber Genesis E330 manifold bolts snapped and frame painting


 
B

BrianInOC

New member
I took the manifold off to replace the burners and the manifold bolts snapped leaving part of the bolt lodged in the firebox. Is my best bet to just drill a hole through the bolts and replace with a nut and bolt? Or do I need to tap the firebox. Does anyone know the bolt length?

Also, I need to paint the frame to deal with surface rust. The cross beams near the firebox are in good shape with no rust. I’m thinking of not repainting that part due to complications with heat.

Finally, any tricks to getting the lid separated from the firebox? I have a replacement lid coming and I was not able to remove it when I tried since the pins are rusted.
 
Yep, drill the manifold bolts out and replace them with SS nuts and bolts. ON the older Silver B and Genesis 1000 grills, I beleive they are 1 1/2" x 1/4". Not sure if they are the same on the E3xx grills.
Is the hinge pins stuck in the lid or in the cook box side of the hinge? If they are stuck in the lid, then just hack saw them off. If they are stuck in the cook box side, then you might have to drill those out as well.
 
Spray some WD-40 (or similar) on the lid pins. They will loosen up enough to pound them out, you may have to spray them a couple of times and let it soak in a bit first.
 
I would recommend PB Blaster or Deep Creep or other penetrating products. WD 40 is not a true penetrating product and the others will work better. Spray them a couple of times a day for a few days and they will come out.
 
The 330 front mount manifold bolts are larger and shorter than x000 or silver side mounts.

I've got one apart, I'll measure it later tonight.
 
Richard in NS said:
I would recommend PB Blaster or Deep Creep or other penetrating products. WD 40 is not a true penetrating product and the others will work better. Spray them a couple of times a day for a few days and they will come out.
Click to expand...
I agree, I've been using Gibbs for years myself. It's fantastic stuff, but I doubt too many people even know what it is.Screenshot_20220723-202853_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
DanHoo said:
The 330 front mount manifold bolts are larger and shorter than x000 or silver side mounts.

I've got one apart, I'll measure it later tonight.
Click to expand...
Any idea of how long of bolt I'd need since now I need to have a nut on the inside of the firebox? Thanks!
 
One other question. All of those little wire clips for the ignitor wires have broken. Are those needed or can I just leave them out?
 
BrianInOC said:
Any idea of how long of bolt I'd need since now I need to have a nut on the inside of the firebox? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I mis-spoke above that the bolt is thicker than silver and x000 manifold bolts. The bolt head is a little different which is what I was remembering.

A 1/4 inch stainless 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch long bolt with two washers and a nut will work. There is plenty of room inside if the bolt is a little long. I think 1 1/4 will be just right, but if you can only get 1 1/2 that will work too.

Here's a pic of the original manifold bolt and a 1/4 inch SS bolt with a couple of washers for comparison.


20220723_222046.jpg
 
BrianInOC said:
One other question. All of those little wire clips for the ignitor wires have broken. Are those needed or can I just leave them out?
Click to expand...

The clips are $6.99. Another option might be some automotive split loom tubing. 3/8 inch would likely hold all four wires.

www.grillspot.com

Weber OEM Wire Clip Set

Qty. 4 x Weber OEM Wire Clips • Set of 4 wire clips • Replaces Weber clip set #89072
www.grillspot.com www.grillspot.com
 
DanHoo said:
The clips are $6.99. Another option might be some automotive split loom tubing. 3/8 inch would likely hold all four wires.

www.grillspot.com

Weber OEM Wire Clip Set

Qty. 4 x Weber OEM Wire Clips • Set of 4 wire clips • Replaces Weber clip set #89072
www.grillspot.com www.grillspot.com
Click to expand...
It's good to know you can just replace those clips, but wouldn't it be more cost effective to just buy maybe an aftermarket igniter kit that comes with new clips?
 
Or split loom and zip ties. I think the key is to keep it off the burner tube, as that's the only part that will really get hot.
 
Never heard of that stuff. May need to look into it. I've been using PBlaster for many years. When friend and I had the shop I think we bought it by the case :D
OP do NOT use a hammer on an aluminum casting. You'll be on here crying the blues when it shatters. If you want those pins out easily and better SAFELY, soak them a good long time in penetrant. Get a small stainless wire brush. Clean around them as best you can and soak again. If still stuck get a small C clamp. Get a small socket but one larger than the pin. Break the pin free by pushing on the exposed (small) end so the head begins to go inside open end of the socket. This will allow the pin to be pushed out easily, no shocks and no shattered casting. Same with any stuck bolt in the fire box. Get some centering bits. Avoid using a punch. Once you've made the pilot with the centering bit drill it fully out. Replace with stainless steel bolt and nut
 
Manifold to cook box bolt broke off on my e330.

Found a replacement at home depot . 1/4 20 3/4 screw works. Only one they had in stock at home depot was a philips head one, was able to use that with a philips 90 degree angle wrench. Wont be able to use a regular screwdriver.


These would be easier with a hex top though
 
Toi, that thread is pretty old. But that is good information to know regarding replacing that bolt.
 
Last one I had snap off, I vaguely recall that I drilled all the way through and put a hex bolt on the inside and a washer nut on the outside. I suspect that the SS bolt is now a permanent addition to the cook box
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top