Weber Genesis 3000? Restoration.


 
Update: Sorry it's been so long, but actually finished this thing about 10 days ago. It got to the point where i was almost there but couldn't motivate to get over the hump.

So of the remaining steps...

1. Frame
Frame was fun. Ordered this extra long tubing brush from SupplyHouse. My main problem was spider nest pods on the interior of EVERYTHING. This cleaned it up the best it could and took out bulk rust, then I hit with the eastwood goop. Eastwood is very thin and will spill out everywhere, but the tube applicator is great. Looking back, it almost seems easier to build a new one by welding tube together. Either tube aluminum or tube stainless. I'm not afraid of buying a welder and I kind of want to learn. This was a lot of effort and the frame still isn't a bulletproof material (no additional material cost though).
Frame tube brush.jpeg

2.. Wood.
Getting and cutting the wood was not that bad. Finishing is the hard part. Used the OSMO oil that i saw on here and stuff is tough to work with. Very thick and be sure you only do thin coats, otherwise you'll be scraping it off like beeswax. Wood was 1x4 sapele (related to mahogany) ripped to 1 9/16" (caliper dimension on the original slats).
wood.jpeg

3. Shelves
Old Z-bars had the coating flaking off as a whole sheet with rust underneath pitting pretty bad. Only way to fix would be to remove, flap disc, passivate, bondo, paint. Still saving the parts and may do that when i get to the skyline next. Otherwise, it's RCP Dave to the rescue. He had run out of stock, but after a few weeks, the new z-bars came in, 20 gauge grain finish stainless. After that, clamp, drill, screw. Used 4 quarters for spacing on the side narrow shelves. Used a 5/16 nut tipped sideways for the lower. New 316 pan head screws all around. Also used a centering bit left over from doing door hinges, this wood is hard so accurate holes help.
side shelf clamp.jpegSide table.jpeg

4. Stainless
RCP all around and subsequent burn off
Stainless.jpegflame on.jpeg

5. We done.
It's so nice I don't want to cook on it. Using the 'on its last legs' spirit 700 i have next to it for now.
Done.jpeg


Punchlist/Lessons learned:
1. The handle is original, early on i sanded it and just clear urethaned it not realizing my slats would be a different darker species. I should but probably wont ever take care of this.
a. the grill out handle light likely has its permanent home.
2. Sandblast is the way to go. I didn't remove all the old original coating on the aluminum and i can see ridges and flap disc marks. Will use a roller on the paint next time instead of the rattle cans.
3. Greasing the old valves is a must.
4. The bleach solution suggestion on the plastic stuff works great.
5. In the process of standardizing regulators and fittings. It's really cheap and easy to get all your grills on the acme nut and 3/8" flare. I'm not sure how to tell if a regulator is bad, but a 20 year old stiff hose can't be good.
6. Went with socket button head screws for the handle bolts, not OEM looking, but I like it for doing stainless.
a. Will black oxide finish on 18-8 stainless discolor? Not sure what that finish means on a stainless bolt. https://www.boltdepot.com/Socket_button_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_black_oxide_finish.aspx
7. Final step is to find a guy to fabricate the drip pan. Luckily have some life left in the original one.
8. This would have been a great youtube series.

So thanks for all the tips, whether I read them passively or were answered directly. This forum is great, these grills are great.
 
Awesome job. You have a bit of investment there, but a great job and it should last you another 30 years. I whole heartedly recommend getting a welder if you have any inclination to do so. It does make frame work on these grills a lot easier and solid.

I know the idea of putting some greasy meat on the grates and turning up the heat is a little discerning, but you will be totally OK with it after you sink your teeth into that 1.5 lb ribeye.
 
Bruce said:
Awesome job. You have a bit of investment there, but a great job and it should last you another 30 years. I whole heartedly recommend getting a welder if you have any inclination to do so. It does make frame work on these grills a lot easier and solid.

I know the idea of putting some greasy meat on the grates and turning up the heat is a little discerning, but you will be totally OK with it after you sink your teeth into that 1.5 lb ribeye.
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Thanks for that. Yes, from the beginning this one was not meant to be a money saver since it's staying with me. The wood was still a killer though. The beater spirit (ugly but mechanically awesome) is going to a family member that just wants a grill and does not see grills as yard art. I think I'll christen this on memorial day weekend. Really the only thing holding me back was the post here, I couldn't cook on it until it had it's debut.
63606104606__EECDC9D7-5272-4F92-9129-0EBC2833245E.jpeg
 
Wow - Beautiful job! You certainly went above an beyond on the restore. Thanks for the detailed rebuild. I would have loved to watch it on YouTube! Maybe the next one. You do now have to go and get the obligatory Weber propane tank cover to complete the look;-)
 
Joe Anshien said:
Wow - Beautiful job! You certainly went above an beyond on the restore. Thanks for the detailed rebuild. I would have loved to watch it on YouTube! Maybe the next one. You do now have to go and get the obligatory Weber propane tank cover to complete the look;-)
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Funny you say that. The tank cover just showed up in the mail today. Initially I was against those, but have to do it in case a magazine comes around :).

YouTube would have been great, but would need someone else to run the camera, I don't have the patience to do it myself. Once you get on a roll, you can't stop. And who has time to edit all my cursing when the battery died on the grinder (that was my biggest mistake not buying a plug in).

I bought that skyline from south jersey a few weeks ago and I tell myself I'm just going to 'clean it up' but before I even have even started I feel the OCD kicking in. I would make a horrible flipper.
 
JimV said:
Yep I made the same mistakes prepping my first 2 cook boxes......I grinded them so clean and perfect with wire wheels but didnt realize the areas with paint missing would show up as shiny and blotchy. That was many many grills a go....but I learned fast you either remove all of the original cook box and end cap paint or you just clean and degrease the cook box trying not to disturb the original paint very much at all. For most all of my cook boxes and end caps I roll on the High Heat paint with a 1/2" nap roller and apply 2 coats. This paint lays down naturally so the 1/2 nap is necessary to get any texture at all......this texture will mask the scalded or bare areas on the prepped box.
Note....it is imperative to shed your rollers prior to painting or it will mess up your handy work......ask me how I know :)
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Can I spray the gloss “Ultra” paint on top of the satin high heat Rustoleum for a gloss appearance? I like the rolling suggestion because you can always see the imperfections under spray paint. I would just like high gloss and the quarts only appear to come in satin around me.
 
That is a very good question......I called the company at one time to ask them but I didnt feel confident that the person I was speaking to knew what they were talking about. That might be a real good experiment on an old cook box......that said u would have to run that cook box hot several times to be sure the paint adheres. My roll on technique has been working for me and I do vary my roller nap depending on the situation. Bottom line is if the end cap was in good shape w just a couple lil chips I just do one coat easy peezy. But if the end cap was a mess your better off grinding it all off...but if you dont wanna do that....apply 2 coats of roll on and it will do a good job of masking it. I think the real skill here is the prep work to the end caps and cook box. Maybe I will start a post on that topic.
 
Yes it is very disappointing here too that the Home Depot only carries Rustoleum Black Satin in quart to roll on here too. If I want Ultra I have to buy a spray can also.
 
JimV said:
Google rustoleum high heat satin 1qt
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The word " ultra " indicates gloss.......they dont have gloss roll on.....just satin......but it looks really good......i should note this paint has a brown hue to it
 

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Oh, skin on chicken is a great way to season a grill.


t0sG1c6.jpg
 
It’s made to get dirty. I have friends who have golf clubs they don’t use. Don’t understand that. They are happier in the dirt.
 
Deep down, i'm the same way. I see 25 year old cars for sale on bring a trailer with under 10k miles. Don't understand it either. Don't worry, this gem will get used.
 
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