RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Ok, will do. You running the stock libraries from GitHub?
Version 2 of my homebrew controller
- Thread starter Bob Hruska
- Start date
Ok, will do. You running the stock libraries from GitHub?
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Ok, will do. You running the stock libraries from GitHub? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Apparently not because those libraries work. It won't seem to join by SSID now. Let me switch to open and test again.....
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Ok, it's not the encryption. I can run the SimpleServer example no problem and connect with open or WPA2. I copy the network configuration and paste it into heatermeter and I can't connect.
is there a reason it would not connect if no probes are connected?
is there a reason it would not connect if no probes are connected?
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Whoops yes there is. I forgot you had a YellowJacket 1.0 with no DFLASH.
HeaterMeter r69
-- Adds DFLASH_SERVING define. If your WiFi does not have a dataflash chip, disable this define.
-- Other optimizations to reduce code space use by 98 bytes.
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Whoops yes there is. I forgot you had a YellowJacket 1.0 with no DFLASH.
HeaterMeter r69
-- Adds DFLASH_SERVING define. If your WiFi does not have a dataflash chip, disable this define.
-- Other optimizations to reduce code space use by 98 bytes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thank you! This compiles just fine but still no network connectivity. I can compile/upload Simpleserver and ping it just fine. When I upload heatermeter with the same ip/security info and the dflash define disabled it uploads fine but I can't ping it. It's like the ip stack isn't initializing.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Unusual. Does it hang at the "Connecting to..." part for a while then go to the "Pit: XXXX [0%]" screen? For WEP it should hang there for maybe 3-5 seconds, for WPA2 it should hang for at least 30 seconds. Is this happening?
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Unusual. Does it hang at the "Connecting to..." part for a while then go to the "Pit: XXXX [0%]" screen? For WEP it should hang there for maybe 3-5 seconds, for WPA2 it should hang for at least 30 seconds. Is this happening? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
It says connectind to *SSID* then after 23 seconds the link LED appears and it goes to -No Pit Probe -. No Response to pings tho and none of the buttons seem to do anything. That may just be my setup as I just have the buttons mocked up and test them by touching wires together.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
That sounds right but I can't imagine why the networking wouldn't work. The problem is that I don't have a WiShield to test with. I had to give mine to my Dad for Christmas because they were out of stock at AsynLabs and they still haven't gotten back in stock. There's a chance it doesn't work at all any more.
Maybe try making this the first line of hmcore.cpp/hmcoreLoop() (last function of the file):
WiServer.server_task();
Maybe try making this the first line of hmcore.cpp/hmcoreLoop() (last function of the file):
WiServer.server_task();
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Sorry to be dense here but what is the exact syntax? You want me to add the following to the begining of hmcore.cpp?
/hmcoreLoop() (last function of the file):
WiServer.server_task();
Cole Ferrier
New member
thoughts on using
http://www.auberins.com/index....h=14&products_id=192
for the blower?
my thought is this isn't priced outrageous (compared to the mounts/fans for stoker)...
and then i don't have to do anything to mount it?
http://www.auberins.com/index....h=14&products_id=192
for the blower?
my thought is this isn't priced outrageous (compared to the mounts/fans for stoker)...
and then i don't have to do anything to mount it?
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Golly I do like that blower. I especially like the shutter on it. I mean the blower itself is what, $13? I'd like a little spring-loaded shutter on my blower too
I just got in all of my components for a build (without WIFI) for now, I ordered a 490-4653-ND digikey thermister for the Ambient temp probe.
also went with ADAfruits 20X4 display.
Bryan: if you would be so kind of getting the magic numbers for this one, I would be grateful.
ED: I am a bit confused with regards to the last schematic that you did, it has to do with pin with the picture of the shift register. Pins 14 and 7 are off the component ???
any recommendations for connectors between the main board, button board and LCD
Thank you all
also went with ADAfruits 20X4 display.
Bryan: if you would be so kind of getting the magic numbers for this one, I would be grateful.
ED: I am a bit confused with regards to the last schematic that you did, it has to do with pin with the picture of the shift register. Pins 14 and 7 are off the component ???
any recommendations for connectors between the main board, button board and LCD
Thank you all
JD Siegrist
New member
One thing I did to help keep things clean was I went to my local Fry's and got some snap off pin headers and soldered a 16x wide straight to my sparkfun sourced LCD. because I was soldering the entire block to the LCD it was much easier than trying to solder 12 individual wires (IMO) and if the ribbon cable I'm using ever has a problem I can swap it out for a new one without having to do any additional de/soldering.
I'm just about done with breadboarding this out according to bryans schematic and I've got the latest heatermeter software put on the ardiuno.
Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll be able to fire it up and start playing with it.
I'm just about done with breadboarding this out according to bryans schematic and I've got the latest heatermeter software put on the ardiuno.
Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll be able to fire it up and start playing with it.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
A=8.68132E-004, B=2.54902E-004, C=1.77129E-007
I'll also point out that Digikey Part BC2299-ND is the original replacement part for the Radio Shack thermistor because it has an identical curve.
Completely off topic but I found out this is a "Type-A" curve thermistor because my new Zigbee HVAC thermostat has 2 pins for external input for outdoor temperature and I plugged one of those in and set the thermostat to "Type-A" and bam (after crawling around in the attic for an hour to run wires) I now have outdoor temperature on the thermostat!
JD Siegrist
New member
I was too anxious and found time to give it a go yesterday. I'm working with all maverick probes and even though I have the ambient temp thermister I've grounded the input. I've also grounded the input for food2 probe.
I assume I need to change the stein hart numbers so they match correct?
Discovered I'd gotten a 10ohm pot for the LCD instead of a 10k one. I thought that little guy was getting hot. Does anyone know if it matters what kind I get? I was kind thinking about getting one of the larger ones where I don't need a screwdriver with an end thinner than a razor blade to turn the knob.
I've got wireless disabled on mine. My first real hurdle is the display telling me that no pit probe is hooked up, even though it was and I did verify a voltage coming off it (almost +4v)
Is there any reason to think that the correct POT will fix this? It will at least make the system more stable (too much current was running through the one i've got now and over time it would drag Vcc down). Maybe the whole stein hart number thing is something I need to correct that will fix it?
Any other places for me to look?
I assume I need to change the stein hart numbers so they match correct?
Discovered I'd gotten a 10ohm pot for the LCD instead of a 10k one. I thought that little guy was getting hot. Does anyone know if it matters what kind I get? I was kind thinking about getting one of the larger ones where I don't need a screwdriver with an end thinner than a razor blade to turn the knob.
I've got wireless disabled on mine. My first real hurdle is the display telling me that no pit probe is hooked up, even though it was and I did verify a voltage coming off it (almost +4v)
Is there any reason to think that the correct POT will fix this? It will at least make the system more stable (too much current was running through the one i've got now and over time it would drag Vcc down). Maybe the whole stein hart number thing is something I need to correct that will fix it?
Any other places for me to look?
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yes you do have to modify the steinhart-hart coefficients for the ambient sensor, but that is it. That shouldn't affect the pit probe problem or have anything to do with the size of your pot. All that does is give you accurate values from the ambient sensor.
If you check the voltage between the +5V output pin on the Arduino and one of the GND pins, you should see ~5V. If this is good, check the voltage from Analog 5 to GND, it should be less (I think that's what you were saying was ~4V?). If both these check out, make sure your Analog 0 is also tied to ground if you don't have buttons hooked up yet. I've heard that floating buttons can cause HeaterMeter to lock up on boot (before the first probe update).
If you check the voltage between the +5V output pin on the Arduino and one of the GND pins, you should see ~5V. If this is good, check the voltage from Analog 5 to GND, it should be less (I think that's what you were saying was ~4V?). If both these check out, make sure your Analog 0 is also tied to ground if you don't have buttons hooked up yet. I've heard that floating buttons can cause HeaterMeter to lock up on boot (before the first probe update).
JD Siegrist
New member
Thx. I will re-check tonight after I procure the correct POT. I believe my faulty POT is having an effect on the entire system though - it appears its dragging Vcc slowly down from +5v. I isolated the 4 different circuits and I had a consistent Vcc with buttons, probes, and blower but not with the LCD circuit. I think that wrong POT is causing Vcc to drop slowly (thus affecting the entire system).
I've got all the buttons wired up... maybe thats a good next step to put a0 to GND just to see if it works.
And yes, I saw somewhere between +3.6 and +4v coming from my temp probes.
thx!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Ah yeah it might be then. I know I had a close-to-a-short in one of my test systems and the voltage would slowly degrade like that over a few minutes as the voltage regulator overheated and then it would finally shut down. Might be something similar? You can work around not having the right pot by just putting a fixed resistor in there large enough so you can see what is on the display.
JD Siegrist
New member
Well darn it. Got the new POT and had stable +5v on all rails. +5v coming out of arduino and +4.4v coming from my pit probe.
Tried powering up with the buttons grounded (ie a0 to GND) but I get the same thing. Hmmm....
I've got wireless commented out. The INSTANT I plug it in I get the - No Pit Probe -
Does that sound right? Is there literally no "boot up" time? I've also tried holding down the buttons on boot just to mess with it even though wireless is commented out and nothing other than "- No pit probe-" ever shows.
At one point I had all inputs to GND except a5 and still the second I plug it in I get that message. Any other thoughts?
Also, I picked up a .1uf ceramic cap today and I'm wondering if what I got was right: Mine is probably the size of a nickel! I'm used to seeing those little itty bitty ceramic caps
Tried powering up with the buttons grounded (ie a0 to GND) but I get the same thing. Hmmm....
I've got wireless commented out. The INSTANT I plug it in I get the - No Pit Probe -
Does that sound right? Is there literally no "boot up" time? I've also tried holding down the buttons on boot just to mess with it even though wireless is commented out and nothing other than "- No pit probe-" ever shows.
At one point I had all inputs to GND except a5 and still the second I plug it in I get that message. Any other thoughts?
Also, I picked up a .1uf ceramic cap today and I'm wondering if what I got was right: Mine is probably the size of a nickel! I'm used to seeing those little itty bitty ceramic caps
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Testing with a pot is a good idea.
Even if they were floating they should show up, just have wacky values. There may be a bug in HM r69? I was going to play with it this morning anyway, I'll set my software version to that and make sure it works.
Actually 2 connections are all that is strictly needed but I think it might depend on how the rest of your circuit is set up. If you just wire the "tip" and "shield" pins on the connector, the analog input should be "pulled up" to 5V if there is no probe inserted and HeaterMeter will recognize this. If you wire the 3rd pin to ground as well, the analog input is essentially tied to 0V when no probe is inserted and HeaterMeter also recognizes this.
Even if they were floating they should show up, just have wacky values. There may be a bug in HM r69? I was going to play with it this morning anyway, I'll set my software version to that and make sure it works.