using full sticks in WSM
- Thread starter Mark Z
- Start date
John Ford
TVWBB Pro
Mark when I used my horizontal smoker for long smokes I used a lot of mini logs for fuel, I had a lot around the house & have been using 1 buried in charcoal for WSM.
1 will provide as much smoke as needed.I don't recommend putting one on top when it lights the temp will go way up & then way down after it burns.
1 will provide as much smoke as needed.I don't recommend putting one on top when it lights the temp will go way up & then way down after it burns.
The WSM is designed to burn charcoal in an oxygen-deprived environment.
Using that much firewood is more likely to oversmoke your meat.
I would also be careful about firewood bundles. Though they are perfectly fine is a fireplace, and maybe grilling over a pit, they might not be suitable for smoking (ie pesticides).
Using that much firewood is more likely to oversmoke your meat.
I would also be careful about firewood bundles. Though they are perfectly fine is a fireplace, and maybe grilling over a pit, they might not be suitable for smoking (ie pesticides).
Dave Russell
TVWBB Honor Circle
John is right. The bigger the piece of smoke wood, the more temp variation, even in the relatively oxygen deprived environmnent of the wsm. For that reason, (along with the fact that I don't like too much smoke) I use chunks no larger than my fist for pork butts, maybe a little smaller for briskets, and a lot smaller for ribs and poultry.
Use the bag from Academy, though. Making small pieces of wood from bigger pieces is not only excercise, it's therapy, as long as you reward yourself with a good brew when you're done. I'm with ya, though. I've been working on the neighbor's apple tree that died....one chunk at a time.
Use the bag from Academy, though. Making small pieces of wood from bigger pieces is not only excercise, it's therapy, as long as you reward yourself with a good brew when you're done. I'm with ya, though. I've been working on the neighbor's apple tree that died....one chunk at a time.
Geir Widar
TVWBB Wizard
Be very careful. I did this with some oak wood I got as a present. When I had two logs left, the blade locked on a log, due to the fact that a log has a irregular shape, and it can move around a lot more.
First of all, I'm glad I still have all my fingers and other body parts intact.
Further on, the result was a mangled gearbox on the mitre saw, not possible to repair. I just had to buy a new saw. I will never use my mitre saw for any log cutting again ever.
These oak chunks will be the most expensive chunks of wood that I ever put into my WSM. One cardboard box of chunks- 530 USD.
First of all, I'm glad I still have all my fingers and other body parts intact.
Further on, the result was a mangled gearbox on the mitre saw, not possible to repair. I just had to buy a new saw. I will never use my mitre saw for any log cutting again ever.
These oak chunks will be the most expensive chunks of wood that I ever put into my WSM. One cardboard box of chunks- 530 USD.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Geir Widar:
Be very careful. I did this with some oak wood I got as a present. When I had two logs left, the blade locked on a log, due to the fact that a log has a irregular shape, and it can move around a lot more.
First of all, I'm glad I still have all my fingers and other body parts intact.
Further on, the result was a mangled gearbox on the mitre saw, not possible to repair. I just had to buy a new saw. I will never use my mitre saw for any log cutting again ever.
These oak chunks will be the most expensive chunks of wood that I ever put into my WSM. One cardboard box of chunks- 530 USD. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Wow, what kind of saw was it? I've pondered doing the same thing with my Makita Mitre saw. I'd be pretty ****ed if I screwed it up.
Be very careful. I did this with some oak wood I got as a present. When I had two logs left, the blade locked on a log, due to the fact that a log has a irregular shape, and it can move around a lot more.
First of all, I'm glad I still have all my fingers and other body parts intact.
Further on, the result was a mangled gearbox on the mitre saw, not possible to repair. I just had to buy a new saw. I will never use my mitre saw for any log cutting again ever.
These oak chunks will be the most expensive chunks of wood that I ever put into my WSM. One cardboard box of chunks- 530 USD. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Wow, what kind of saw was it? I've pondered doing the same thing with my Makita Mitre saw. I'd be pretty ****ed if I screwed it up.
timothy
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Being a Carpenter for over 35 yrs, I totally agree with Geir's advice.
Miter boxes are designed for using dimensional lumber which has been S4S (Surfaced or Squared on all four sides).
You really need full contact with the table and back fence for a standard or slider box to work properly.
Trying to cut a limb or branch with the crown facing the wrong direction on a MB will most likely cause a kick back, which is bad enough if you are in the path of the kick back, or worse it can draw your fingers into the path of the blade.
Me, I use a fairly aggressive combination hand saw for a couple of dry chunks, for green wood a bow saw or a Sawzall with a 5 TPI pruning blade.
Tim
Miter boxes are designed for using dimensional lumber which has been S4S (Surfaced or Squared on all four sides).
You really need full contact with the table and back fence for a standard or slider box to work properly.
Trying to cut a limb or branch with the crown facing the wrong direction on a MB will most likely cause a kick back, which is bad enough if you are in the path of the kick back, or worse it can draw your fingers into the path of the blade.
Me, I use a fairly aggressive combination hand saw for a couple of dry chunks, for green wood a bow saw or a Sawzall with a 5 TPI pruning blade.
Tim