Jim Burmeister
TVWBB Fan
There is a cabinet maker near by and I wonder if hardwood scrapes can by used to add to the fire basket ??
use of hardwood scrapes
- Thread starter Jim Burmeister
- Start date
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jim Burmeister:
There is a cabinet maker near by and I wonder if hardwood scrapes can by used to add to the fire basket ?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
As long as he can confirm that they have not been treated with anything then wood is wood.
There is a cabinet maker near by and I wonder if hardwood scrapes can by used to add to the fire basket ?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
As long as he can confirm that they have not been treated with anything then wood is wood.
Interestlying enough, I work for a cabinet maker headquartered in your area Bryan.
Unfortunatly, the cabinet maker may not know what the wood has been exposed to. Many sawmills routinely "dip" lumber in fungicides to prevent stain and rot before the lumber is air dryed and then kiln dryed.
With that said, they kiln drying process may "boil" this off as the moisture escapes, and there may not be any concern at all. Also, most of this lumber will have been run thru a planer and possible thru a sander before you get the chance to use it. So the "dip" may have not penetrated much below the surface and may have been machined off. Additionally the "dipping" solution used may not be hazardous when the wood burns. Just don't know.
Another concern is whether the wood available is a solid piece of wood or it has been joined together with a glue joint to make a wider or longer piece. I'd be concerned about glue too.
I know many people who use this type of wood for smoking. (Most have been occaisional cooks, but one was on a Q team) I've even used it myself before I thought about the possible harmfull effects of using this kind of wood.
So, my bottom line is, here I am with a virtually endless supply of hickory/pecan, red oak, cherry, and hard maple and worry about the dangers of using it. Very frustrating.
One final note if you decide to try it. Machined harwoods with flat sides do not start burning as well as split wood with some spinters on it. Spit the stuff to get splinters and/or wet it down (NOT Soak it) to raise the grain(little splinters) and then let it dry thoroughly. Wetting this kind of wood and then drying may be beneficial. Typically kiln dryed lumber is around 6-8% moisture content while well seasoned firewood is in the low double digit range and wetting it a little might get it closer to seasoned wood in moisture.
Don't know if I'll use the stuff again, but I sure do keep thinking about it.
Unfortunatly, the cabinet maker may not know what the wood has been exposed to. Many sawmills routinely "dip" lumber in fungicides to prevent stain and rot before the lumber is air dryed and then kiln dryed.
With that said, they kiln drying process may "boil" this off as the moisture escapes, and there may not be any concern at all. Also, most of this lumber will have been run thru a planer and possible thru a sander before you get the chance to use it. So the "dip" may have not penetrated much below the surface and may have been machined off. Additionally the "dipping" solution used may not be hazardous when the wood burns. Just don't know.
Another concern is whether the wood available is a solid piece of wood or it has been joined together with a glue joint to make a wider or longer piece. I'd be concerned about glue too.
I know many people who use this type of wood for smoking. (Most have been occaisional cooks, but one was on a Q team) I've even used it myself before I thought about the possible harmfull effects of using this kind of wood.
So, my bottom line is, here I am with a virtually endless supply of hickory/pecan, red oak, cherry, and hard maple and worry about the dangers of using it. Very frustrating.
One final note if you decide to try it. Machined harwoods with flat sides do not start burning as well as split wood with some spinters on it. Spit the stuff to get splinters and/or wet it down (NOT Soak it) to raise the grain(little splinters) and then let it dry thoroughly. Wetting this kind of wood and then drying may be beneficial. Typically kiln dryed lumber is around 6-8% moisture content while well seasoned firewood is in the low double digit range and wetting it a little might get it closer to seasoned wood in moisture.
Don't know if I'll use the stuff again, but I sure do keep thinking about it.