To sear or not to sear?

[Rob O]

Hi folks. Kind of a technical question here I guess. I'm planning to experiment with an old brisket recipe I've had for a while and I could use some advice. What I'm wondering is whether I should bother searing the brisket and if I should whether I should do it before or after smoking.

My bias is to sear it somehow if I can since the sauce is pretty important to this recipe.

My general recipe goes like this:

1. Sear brisket in braising pan.
2. Add braising liquid and scrape up browned bits for flavor.
3. Braise for several hours until brisket is done.
4. Reduce braising liquid and drippings for gravy/sauce.

I'd like to modify this recipe to smoke the brisket up until the point the meat gets to about 140* then finish in the pan and braising sauce. So here's the questions:

1. Should I sear first and then smoke? Seemed like this might prevent the meat from absorbing the smoke flavor.
2. Should I smoke first and then sear? I've never heard of searing warm meat before.
3. Is 140* about the right temperature? I believe I recall that's about where the meat starts to lose its ability to absorb smoke flavor.


Thanks all. Advice welcome.

 

[K Kruger]

Searing at the finish is not uncommon when cooking outside--I do it frequently for tri-tip, thick steaks, and a few other things.

Searing at the start will not prevent smoke from sticking to the meat (it sticks, it doesn't really absorb).

140 is roughly where smokering formation quits. Smoke continues to adhere as long as it is present.

Since you'd like to finish as a braise, I'd suggest searing first. Sear well (do not use a non-stick pan), then deglaze the pan as per your recipe. Reserve the braising liquid. Smoke till 165 internal, then finish the meat as per your recipe.

Searing after might set you up for a somewhat bitter finish as the smoke particulates and exterior meat becomes further charred--these flavor elements will then concentrate during the searing/deglazing phase.

Note that, if you wish, you could do the entire cook outside. To do this, follow the above then when the meat reaches 165, foil the meat and include the braising elements. Close the foil tightly and crimp above the meat, leaving some headspace. Cook till tender then remove the meat from the foil, wrap and rest, and defat the liquid from the foil. Reduce the liquid and/or finish with a roux, if desired.

Smoke flavor, while desirable on the meat, isn;t laways welcome in a concentrated sauce for the reason noted above. Have some stock ready (beef or chicken), or reduced wine, vinegar, or fruit juice, should the flavor need mellowing. Adjust if needed.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rob O]

Hey thanks Kevin. Never considered the smoke particulates getting bitter. Makes sense now that I think about it. Also, I have done this basic recipe outside on my gasser.

This should work well. I'm going to sear first in a deep roasting pan. Then I'll smoke the brisket to 165. I'll need to work something out to catch the drippings.

While smoking I'll deglaze the roasting pan with the braising liquid (it's basically Guiness, ketchup, onions and beef broth with a little caraway).

About an hour before transferring the brisket to the roasting pan I'll warm the pan and braising liquid to about 225*. After transferring the brisket and drippings I'll finish the cook with the pan foiled.

Sound right?

 

[K Kruger]

Yes.

Deglaze with the beer alone first. Don't use all of it, just a T or so. If needed, add a T or two of water. Scrape the pan well to dissolve the fond (the flavorful stuff stuck to the pan); when that's done, add the rest of the braising ingredients and bring to a simmer, stirring to combine; remove and reserve.

Warm the pan and liquid before use, as you note (the liquid won't get past a boil--212--but that's fine). It won't take an hour.

You can fashion a pan out of HD foil and place it below the brisket to catch dripping. A word of caution: Taste the drippings (they'll be fatty--no big deal, imo) before use. Same thing applies here as noted above: the drippings can be too much. You'll have to judge. (What you can do is take a little of the dripping and mix it with a little of your braising liquid. Taste that and see what you think.) You do not need to use all the drippings--and don't if it seems like they'll overwhelm--just use a little. If you think you'll need more liquid simply add a little more beef stock to the braising liquid when you pan the beef to finish.

If you use plenty of onions, the braising liquid can be pureed and thickened pretty much by the onions alone--your choice.

When you think the brisket is likely to be done, check 10-15 min before. Get a sense of done by feeling how easily your probe slides in and guestimate how much more time you'll need. If unsure, re-crimp the foil lid and check in 15-20 min.

Let us know how it goes and enjoy your cook and meal!