This Old (New?) Grill


 
Seems technical. There is the routering but then it also has a flat spot inside the routering. I could practice on some cheap wood. It's always good to do as much as you can yourself. Trying is the best way to learn.
 
The weather gods finally smiled upon me long enough to get some paint on the cook box so we’re ready to move forward again. I like a little bit of a sheen rather than the flat black look that a lot of others prefer so I used Krylon Industrial High Heat paint. For this grill, I also elected to put down a base layer of Rustoleum 2000º primer. I don’t always use the primer but I have found that the paint lays down a little flatter when finished which helps to hide any casting imperfections. I just figure this grill is worthy of the extra effort. Rather than risk doing too much while the paint was still fairly soft, I only put the drip rails on and set the box in the frame for now. Here’s today’s OEM parts and pics for posterity along with a pic of the casting stamp.
 

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Another day, another minor update. Today I installed the genuine Weber OEM burner tubes and genuine Weber OEM manifold. Both are brand new but are not old stock as both items are currently still readily available for purchase. In both cases, the ones I removed during disassembly were perfectly fine and reusable but, as stated in the opening post of the thread, the idea with this grill is to use new genuine Weber parts if available. Pics and part number photos for documentation and historical record. BTW - someone asked about the grates in the background in a DM. They’re 7mm SS Amazon specials on a Silver C that I just need to finish the lid on. For now, it’s a great prop stand for my photos. No update coming again until next week…camping season is here and I’m taking a pair of back to back 4 day weekends!
 

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I’m back from camping and made some more progress on the build. Installed #7509 igniter, #90501 Weber badge, #9815 thermometer, and used the hood pins and clips from a #99236 part bag. For those who might care, the #99236 bag also contains a full set of speed nuts for the lid ends and bolts for newer Gold series grills with the curved front handle. I just happened to have a couple of these kits laying around and decided to help myself to the shiny new pins and clips for this project. The #90501 badge is not correct to original for the grill but I opted to use new in keeping with the spirit of the project vs refurbishing the old one which would have the kettle on the opposite side of the Weber name.
 

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Truth be known…I actually have 2. Not sure where I’ll use the other one just yet.
I probably wouldn't waste either one of them on a grill I was going to sell unless you can find someone who is really willing to pay up for the privilege. In fact, I have sold a couple restored grills that I pulled parts off of that were too nice for the money I was going to get for them, "derestoring" it to fit the market so to speak. I did it before advertising them for sale of course.
 
Yesterday was all about the Weber Grill Out handle light. Part #9057. I had a mahogany handle made for this grill but called an option for the 9057 at the last moment. These handles still pop up as NOS from time to time on the secondary market and I’ve managed to accumulate a half a dozen of them in the shop. I retrofit the incandescent lamps with ultra-bright white LED bulbs whenever I pull a fresh handle off the shelf. I also use Lithium batteries on every occasion when I do. On an item like a grill handle where things might get put away for long periods of time, Lithium batteries offer the benefit of not leaking and forming the nasty white powder on the component contacts when they fail. To me, the extra money is well spent to avoid that nastiness and potential damage to the light. You can see the LED light bulb part numbers and a pic of the LED vs incandescent lamps for reference.
 

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