Summit S-470 Lid Pins Stuck


 
M

MCarr

New member
Picked up a s-470 over the weekend for $125 what was nearly rust free, even the wheel rubber was intact. Unfortunately the clevis pins that attach the lid are stuck...like stuck stuck, to the point where one torqued and broke. I managed to get the half that was stuck in the cookbox out with some drilling, pb blaster and hammering but the other half stuck in the lid concerns me as I don't want to crack the side of the lid by wailing on it.

Any suggestions on how to get it out. I have a plumbing torch but no acetylene.

Also, anyone got the paint thread handy for what matches the frame? Can't seem to find it when searching.

Thanks!
 
Lots of PBlaster and patience. I would be VERY leery of touching any of those castings with a hammer. Just keep soaking away with PB. You can try the plumbing torch as well but don't heat the pin. Heat the surrounding area (but wipe off any PB before the torch LOL
 
MCarr said:
Picked up a s-470 over the weekend for $125 what was nearly rust free, even the wheel rubber was intact. Unfortunately the clevis pins that attach the lid are stuck...like stuck stuck, to the point where one torqued and broke. I managed to get the half that was stuck in the cookbox out with some drilling, pb blaster and hammering but the other half stuck in the lid concerns me as I don't want to crack the side of the lid by wailing on it.

Any suggestions on how to get it out. I have a plumbing torch but no acetylene.

Also, anyone got the paint thread handy for what matches the frame? Can't seem to find it when searching.

Thanks!
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i have not found that elusive cabinet paint ive tried lots no matches
 
I dunno, starting this think this is going to be a parts grill. I got the broken piece out of the cookbox but one full pin is stuck in the lid and the other half of the broken one is stuck in the other side. Shame too because its in good shape otherwise, manifold feels solid and not sticky. I tried a lot of heat on the lid and its not budging.
 
Is it something that you can drill out? Start with a flat surface if possible so the bit doesn't walk. Start small, 1/8" bit in the center of the pin and work up from there.
 
I was never successful with heat on cast aluminum. I drilled them out. Started with a small drill bit such as 1/16" and increased slowly. You just need a steady hand and time. With a thin drill there is a good chance they break if you don't hold the drill very steady.
 
Get the BFH out and quit dancing with the darn thing!

No, not really, you should probably do the drill out method or what Larry suggests sounds like a great idea as well.
 
try get a can of those super cold spray and spray the pin?

Or drill a hole through the center first then fill the inside with the spray.
 
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Best corrosion penetrant that I've found is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, works better than PB Blaster, SuperCreep, LiquidWrench and Aerokroil.
 
Don't know what good the acetone does. It evaporates so fast. ATF is OK though but in many years of wrenching I have never seen anything better than PBlaster.
 
Larry, the rusty bolts on my Heep just laughed at PB Blaster. The cheap weasel pi$$ I use generally lets fasteners spin out after soaking them down. Can't give you the why, but the empirical observation is that the stuff works.
 
The pins have uneven shear wear on them. Deal with this all the time on boats. You may be able to get them out but you will have to somehow spin them until they lone up a bit better. Then use L's method. Hopefully the castings stay intact. There may have been a ridge in between. How the pin wears and the castings get dug into...
 
JKalchik said:
Best corrosion penetrant that I've found is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, works better than PB Blaster, SuperCreep, LiquidWrench and Aerokroil.
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LMichaels said:
Don't know what good the acetone does. It evaporates so fast. ATF is OK though but in many years of wrenching I have never seen anything better than PBlaster.
Click to expand...

I work in an Auto Parts store and have access to a ton of products to test out and this includes Penetrating Fluids. While PB Blaster works "ok" I hate the smell of it as it lingers on products with it's god-awful smell.

This guy is one of the best product testers out there and he puts a lot of time into his tests that we all benefit from.

He has three separate videos on Penetrating Fluids. This is his first one and JKalchik is dead-on, the ATF/ Acetone actually came in second place of the fluids tested in this round.


Jeff
 
I use Sea Foam Deep Creep on my restores as well as for Automotive work for the last couple years, Works great, clings well, and best thing...very little smell which is an issue if you are using it in a Home or Cellar.

In Project Farms second test it came out on top of all Penetrating Fluids.


Jeff
 
If it's cold-welded to the degree that it sheared a 1/4" mild steel pin by torque, it may very well be terminal if you don't have the right tools. Depending on how important it is to rescue this part, you might consider taking it to a local machine shop or neighbor and see what they recommend. I began my working career as a machinist so it's easy for me to see several ways of approaching this with machine tools but it all depends on the tools in your tool belt.
 
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Thanks guys. I'll give this sea foam deep creep a shot. I'm tried some hammering and putting it in my vise thus far. The drilling should work for the one side that's sheared off but the other side is the full pin so I'd need to cut that and then drill it out. So I was hoping to get it freed up intact but i'm nearing the point where I just give in and drill it. The drilling didn't work great on the other half of the sheared off pin that was stuck in the cookbox. I've watched some videos and I now realize the importance of proper speed on the drill though.
 
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