Summit 420 restoration progress


 
N

NigelG

TVWBB Member
I plan to restore this Summit S-420 and thought I would share the progress here. I plan to reuse everything that is still functioning reasonable well.

Here are some pictures showing the current condition. Wish me luck!
 

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Hate to bust your bubble, but you got fire box rot starting.. Depending how you use it and weather conditions it will go from that to swiss cheese in nothing flat
 
LMichaels said:
Hate to bust your bubble, but you got fire box rot starting.. Depending how you use it and weather conditions it will go from that to swiss cheese in nothing flat
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You missed his post about getting a new one from Weber under warranty in the other thread he started.
 
I think he realizes that. I believe it was originally posted in another thread and the FB rot was noted then.
 
Fred Smith said:
I'm currently restoring a 420 and in fact I just started the tear down today. All my parts have arrived and it's time to get to work. Looking forward to your progress pictures.
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Start a restoration thread for your grill too Fred, we want to see what you're doing too.
 
Fred Smith said:
I'm currently restoring a 420 and in fact I just started the tear down today. All my parts have arrived and it's time to get to work. Looking forward to your progress pictures.
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Very interested in your progress Fred. Looks like yours is in a little bit better shape than mine
 
NigelG said:
I plan to restore this Summit S-420 and thought I would share the progress here. I plan to reuse everything that is still functioning reasonable well.

Here are some pictures showing the current condition. Wish me luck!
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Picked up paint and supplies, grill degreaser/cleaner, brake cleaner, a wire wheel brush, fluid film (for inside the tubes) and some PB Blaster yesterday. I also order generic burner tubes, wheels and a drip pan from Amazon.

I have it all taken apart and while rusty it appears to be mostly surface and not through and through.

I do have a question about the rust. Should every spec be removed down to bare metal, or just clean it smooth even with some red still showing and paint it?
 
The only way to stop rust is to remove it so as clean as possible and use a rust Reformer or rust stop primer first. I just sanded down surface rust in some spots on mine and hit it with rust Reformer. Paint next.
 
Fred Smith said:
The only way to stop rust is to remove it so as clean as possible and use a rust Reformer or rust stop primer first. I just sanded down surface rust in some spots on mine and hit it with rust Reformer. Paint next.
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Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood or POR15 will stop it dead
 
Fred Smith said:
The only way to stop rust is to remove it so as clean as possible and use a rust Reformer or rust stop primer first. I just sanded down surface rust in some spots on mine and hit it with rust Reformer. Paint next.
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I'll grab some reformer. Im getting it pretty good with the wheel and sandpaper, but wasn't sure the best way
 
I cleaned up my snow blower this spring with Por15. I was amazed at the stuff. It goes on very smooth and glossy and freeking hard. I have yet to really put it to test in the real world, but I imagine it will be twice as durable as the factory finish that was used in the areas I put it on. I spilled some on my garage floor. I imagine it will be there when I leave this world. I have made a half hearted effort to chip it up, but it is really stuck and durable.
I would love to use the stuff for a lot of things, but for two reasons I do not. First, it is expensive and second, it takes like a three step process. I just wish you could spray it on and be done. And not have it cost so much. Oh, and if it is exposed to direct sunlight, you need to top coat it with something as UV light breaks it down.

If I ever buy a new riding mower, I will probably take the deck off and coat the entire bottom side with Por15 before I ever use it. No worries about the deck rusting out.
 
I have no doubt those other products work better than the Rust-Oleum rust reformer, which I also use. As long as you do at least a minimal amount of prep I think the Rust-Oleum is a better value and easier to use than Por-15 or Eastwood.
 
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