Spirit S210 NG - Convert or keep NG


 
Willard

Willard

TVWBB Fan
I’m restoring this S210 and will likely flip it. The previous owner removed all the burners, placed a grate at the bottom and used it with Charcoal! I bought it for $20 bucks.

What are the parts I will need if converting to Propane? As I type this, I realize it might be easier to keep NG.

Happy mothers day
 

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Easiest and most practical conversion is swapping out manifolds. But, i would first try it as a NG for flipping. If it doesn't sell, then consider the manifold swap. NG is a lot less common, but when someone wants NG, they want NG.
 
There’s more to a proper conversion on these than one might expect. Once you get the NG to LP orifice or manifold swap sorted, you still have to deal with the tank. There’s no hole in the floor on an NG model for the tank to sit in nor is there a tank scale hanger. If you just set the tank on the floor of the grill, it sits too high and you risk burning your hand trying to turn the tank off under a hot grill. Outboarding the tank isn’t that easy either as there is no hole in the side panel. You’d have to run a longer hose and run it out through the back panel. All of this for a flip that might be turn at $250 on the high end? I just don’t see the ROI value being there.
 
Thanks for your replies. I'm going to keep it NG.

I can't find the burner tubes for Natural Gas. I'm assuming they are different than the ones for LP. Please point me somewhere where I could find it or replacements on Amazon
 
Willard said:
Thanks for your replies. I'm going to keep it NG.

I can't find the burner tubes for Natural Gas. I'm assuming they are different than the ones for LP. Please point me somewhere where I could find it or replacements on Amazon
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My Genesis E330 burner tubes have different part numbers for LP and NG yet I cannot see any difference. They look identical to me.
 
Willard said:
Thanks for your replies. I'm going to keep it NG.

I can't find the burner tubes for Natural Gas. I'm assuming they are different than the ones for LP. Please point me somewhere where I could find it or replacements on Amazon
Click to expand...
Burners are burners. They don't care what fuel is fed to them. All that matters is whichever fuel is fed to them is metered correctly. I am sure Weber does that different part number bit to scare off conversions
 
Personally, I have refurbished about 400 Webers and found that anytime a grill was used as charcoal you would have to replace the manifold, the heat from charcoal burning and flames burns the any of the rubber gaskets on the valves and can cause a leak, plus it seems that the fire box's tend to warp. I just pass on any that were used pervious as charcoal.
 
All I have ever seen is the silicone washer on top to deflect water. I have not been into a newer front control model. Which is why I noted "I have not seen one". Other than my Summit (now Jon's) which also only had the silicone washer on the stem
 
Those black boots are just that. They are not washers. They basically serve the same purpose as the gray silicone washers that weber used to use....maybe they are an improvement and keep dust and other stuff out as well, but they are not really washers.
 
As my luck would have it, I found a set of burners and flav bars I salvaged from a Spirit donor grill. When I first got into restoring grills, I threw away a couple of grills I couldn't restore without taking any good parts out. The idea never crossed my mind until Bruce suggested it. (Thanks Bruce)

The two screws that guide the burner tubes are missing. Should I order these from Weber or can I get simple replacements from Home Depot? What would be the screw number to get for these?
 
Definitely find local. I beleive they are the same as the screws for the slide rails on the bottom of the cook box.
 
I did something very stupid and I need help fixing it. I'm using the whole grill restore thing to teach my son how to be handy with tools. I had him help me loosen one of those screws on the slide rails on the bottom of the cook box using a ratchet. Well, instead of loosening it, he tightened it to a degree that it decapitated the screw. Now the rest of the screw is on the cook box. Is there any way to remove that screw?
 
You will want to use a centering bit to start and then go to a quality drill bit to drill it out. You need to drill the hole perfectly centered. It is tough to do, but doable.
 
Bruce said:
You will want to use a centering bit to start and then go to a quality drill bit to drill it out. You need to drill the hole perfectly centered. It is tough to do, but doable.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I forgot that part. Those things are "da bomb"
 
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