Spirit 210 Carts disintegrating


 
C

Chris-CreeBQ

New member
So I've come across a lot of S-210s on the pedestal carts lately that are being dumped or given away. Almost universally the carts are just destroyed by rust - and not just on the bottom but up the sides and into the cross members that support the grill boxes. They're a cool little grill for a patio but the carts are causing all of these to end up in the dumpster I fear.

Has anyone come across a good solution for a new cart on these? I've searched the forum and there are great Genny rehabs and cart discussions but havent seen much for the late 2010s Spirits. Any ideas would be welcome. Forgive me if there is a thread about this that I've missed. Thanks in advance.
 
Chris-CreeBQ said:
So I've come across a lot of S-210s on the pedestal carts lately that are being dumped or given away. Almost universally the carts are just destroyed by rust - and not just on the bottom but up the sides and into the cross members that support the grill boxes. They're a cool little grill for a patio but the carts are causing all of these to end up in the dumpster I fear.

Has anyone come across a good solution for a new cart on these? I've searched the forum and there are great Genny rehabs and cart discussions but havent seen much for the late 2010s Spirits. Any ideas would be welcome. Forgive me if there is a thread about this that I've missed. Thanks in advance.
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I have fixed a few of these. One way is a sheet of wood for the bottom with 3-4 small 2x4 pieces screwed into the bottom and sides for attaching and stability. Painted with matching gray paint and add casters from Harbor freight;-) No more rust problems.
 
The grills like this are hard to fix if rotted. They don’t have square tube frame members like most other Webers.

All the cart panels have curves which are hard to replicate.

The grills don’t sell for much so not much budget for cart repair
 

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BPratt said:
The grills like this are hard to fix if rotted. They don’t have square tube frame members like most other Webers.

All the cart panels have curves which are hard to replicate.

The grills don’t sell for much so not much budget for cart repair
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I agree that the juice is probably not worth the squeeze for most people. Just getting the grill up on a table or saw horses and remove the bottom was a lot of work. But it was a lot of fun if you like to cut metal with an angle grinder;-) I was able to get most of the rust off and fix the bottom good enough on one but reattaching it the original was was a no go. That is why the 2x4.
It is a shame as the firebox and all cooking parts are well made. It is just the cabinet holds water and rusts.
 
I've restored two S-210s. The one I still own and one that I had to toss two years after a fairly thorough restoration although it was on the deck at our beach house in a very rust conducive environment. The one on our primary home deck which I restored almost two years ago, still looks new with no rust. If you can find one with minimal rust and you use the right rust proofing and paint, they are excellent grills.
 
Joe Anshien said:
I have fixed a few of these. One way is a sheet of wood for the bottom with 3-4 small 2x4 pieces screwed into the bottom and sides for attaching and stability. Painted with matching gray paint and add casters from Harbor freight;-) No more rust problems.
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Joe is right about this type of restoration. You could use slotted steel angle iron as the support braces along with PT 2x4s and plywood for the base. A bit of work, but relatively easy. Replacement parts are plentiful and inexpensive for these grills so it could be a worthwhile project.
 
Weber should have made them with a plastic base like a broil king or whats used by pool heaters or air conditioning condensers.
 
BPratt said:
Weber should have made them with a plastic base like a broil king or whats used by pool heaters or air conditioning condensers.
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True. It's not just the base on those though, although usually the bases are almost certainly where rust starts earliest but the side supports are very prone to rust as well.
 
I am in Weber’s “Grilling Circle.” I am careful to comply with their requirements that I not share anything we are shown. However, I don’t mind saying that every chance I get to make a comment, I try to work in asking Weber to upgrade to REAL stainless steel on these rust-prone components - even if it means offering a more expensive premium (“Platinum”?) version as an alternative.

I think people in high humidity environments would be willing to pay the premium price for 304 stainless. Don’t ditch all the color by keeping the porcelain hoods (more colors!) and go back to porcelain control panels that don’t wipe off after a couple cleanings.
 
Jon Tofte said:
I am in Weber’s “Grilling Circle.” I am careful to comply with their requirements that I not share anything we are shown. However, I don’t mind saying that every chance I get to make a comment, I try to work in asking Weber to upgrade to REAL stainless steel on these rust-prone components - even if it means offering a more expensive premium (“Platinum”?) version as an alternative.

I think people in high humidity environments would be willing to pay the premium price for 304 stainless. Don’t ditch all the color by keeping the porcelain hoods (more colors!) and go back to porcelain control panels that don’t wipe off after a couple cleanings.
Click to expand...
Precisely why I went with a Broilmaster P3 for the deck at our beach house. The 304 SS base, stand and shelves are impervious to the moisture and salt as is the heavy cast aluminum grill box, leaving just the internals as expendable portion.
 
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